1965 Moke shaped rust pile.

Started by clm, September 21, 2012, 07:59:09 PM

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clm

It has been a while, I have been building a shop wide workbench and going to pick up more items. I picked up an engine for either the Moke or the Pickup, it is a silver seal remanufactured 1275gt short block rebuilt and never ran. It had to come apart however as the lube turned to glue, I am having the block and the rods/pistons cleaned before I go about assembling it. I also acquired another treasure, I picked up the welder! A used Lenco l-4000 which ended up having a Hasuna 558 pneumatic gun attached to it... O.O This may change the plans of the welder accessory I plan to build.



Chris

94touring


pschlacter01

you have to finish the job but when you'll be very happy. increase in job

clm

Not sure how to answer that pschlacter01!

Hey all,
Slow week here, I managed to cut the front of the subframe for spot welding clearance thankfully it didn't change anything measurement wise.



While waiting for panels I set to building a nice 26 foot long workbench for additional work space took a few lazy days, but it has helped clean up the shop a bit.



Soon the order from m-machine came in, it isn't just for the moke however as it includes part of the doorframe for the woody and the inner wing panels for the pup. Along with those meaningless panels there where most of the panels I needed for the moke center hull...







Unfortunately the rear pannier closing panels I odered turned into a single inner inner pannier divider... not good. So I need to order the panels directly from Leo and I need to get them before I I can try welding the heelboard to the floor.

Oh well, that will take some time, another task I had on the agenda was to add legs to the jig so I could get some distance above the dirt... and I think it turned out ok.



I have had the 1275 cleaned and oiled, only need to order parts and start assembly on it.

The welder is still waiting on tips before I can try it.

Slowly moving along...

Chris

94touring


clm

Hello all, It has been quite a hiatus  When the rain was thick I was indoors avoiding tracking mud into the house. Earlier this month I decided I needed to work on the moke again so proceeded to clean up my working space in the shop. About that time I finally received the metal I needed to try to set up the spot welder.

Things however did not work out quite so well, while the welder has enough power to melt the metal I don't currently have the ability to apply enough pressure to get it to forge together right.. and it is EVEN worse with the pneumatic spot welder... :/ (single spot is the pneumatic the double spots is doing it by hand one on each side of the test pieces)



Not Good Not Good...

So I decide to push the welder off into the corner for now and weld it like I have in the past on the other shells, after all I don't plan on ever selling MY Moke.

The panels all test fit good, better actually then the standard mini panels tend to fit on to standard minis...



I started by welding the hull closer panels on followed by the pannier floor angle brackets on each side. Once this was done the main floor was turned over for additional welds on the underside, something I think I will need to do frequently I believe as my jig doesn't rotate :)




Once that was done and placed back into the heelboard and toeboard I welded those on both sides so they would be firmly attached when I pilled the floor to fully weld the toe and heelboards on. I also came up with the novel solution of propping one side of the jig up to better access welds, simple but effective :)




Once they were both welded on I was able to test fit the inner hull sides and they happily fit without clamps :)



realizing I was likely going to need the seat crossmember much sooner then later, with much trepidation I attacked the moke with a cutting disk... -insert pictures of rust and destruction-







Finally! I got the seat crossmember and the pannier tops off! The one pannier divider from the LH side is by far the best shape and will get minor repairs and reuse, the matching one from the RH will get major repairs and then reuse.

Just for fun...



So I mounted the pan assembly back into the jig once the welds were clean inside and started jigging things up to test fit.




And I have to love how things are fitting together, the old tunnel section I have left on the seat crossmember to test how things fit? They line up perfectly with the holes already in the new pan, you can see light directly though them!



Next I need to weld the pannier dividers that are being replaced with new onto the sides of the pan so I can weld the hull sides in. Thankfully the seat crossmember is welded in differently then how I thought so it can be mounted after the hull sides. The pannier tops need cleaned up and repaired, and then I have to start repairing the flitch panels on the front end.

The front should be easy to get ready to use, it needs the flitches repaired, the areas behind the shock mounts repaired, a section on the LH bulkhead in front of the driver repaired, one fender replaced and the two sloping sections replaced. Minimal compared to any other section!

I also have started another order up with m-panels to get a moke load floor in as I have decided I need to replace it now instead of having to dig that far into the moke later to replace it. I am going to beat the rear panel back into a semblance of shape for now as it is easy to replace later.

Once again Sorry for the delays! :)

Chris

94touring


clm

Don't mention it... Here's more!  :-\

I have gotten the new pannier dividers I have welded on, two are missing they are still attached to the old pannier tops and will stay there I will install them when I install the pannier tops.



I also did something that may be somewhat controversial, I removed the seat belt anchors on the new hull sides. The car was not originally built with them being an early enough moke so they are not required. Grandfathered features whee! I will put seat belts in it however, they will go in with the roll bar when it is fitted.



Once those were out I needed to start prepping the hull sides for welding in, this requires prepping the sill voids where I can't access once it's built. This means paint! and paint means MASKING! I need the paint to not be between the joints, I will paint those later with weld through zinc primer.




The order I am putting together for the rear panels, the last 4 I am not sure exactly which those are so M-parts is sending me some photos via email.

1 x HYE0857 Rear Floor Panel - £75.00 +
1 x ALA7026 Channel capping Rear RH - £41.16 +
1 x ALA7102 Rear Seat rear support bracket LH - £6.50 +
1 x ALA7103 Rear Seat rear support bracket RH - £6.50 +
1 x HYE0859A Rear floor cross member assembly - £35.00 +
2 x HYK3553 Front wing sloping section reinforcement - £8.00 each +
1 x ALA7108 rear floor front support piece - £10.00  +
2 x BHM9665 Handbrake cables - £8.75 each
1 x AHH5631 brake pipe - £7.51
1 x BCA4002 brake pipe - £9.01
1 x 2A2183 brake pipe - £10.47

£234.65

1 x HYK1787 Reinforcing plates rear wing RH -£15.00 +
1 x HYK1788 Reinforcing plates rear wing LH - £15.00 +
1 x ALA7368RH reinforcement plate hull top - £8.76
1 x ALA7368LH reinforcement plate hull top - £8.76

£47.52

£282.17 - about $430 or so.

Untill next time, Chris

Mudhen

Wow, that's awesome.  From the ground up, piece by piece!   4.gif

clm

Heck with frame off restorations.. this is a car off restoration! lol

Not much today picture wise, but it seems like a bit was done. I worked a bit on the seat crossmember, cleaning up the underside and getting it ready to weld in. I also partially welded on the LH hullside at every point I could reach.



Once the other side and the seat mount is welded in I will need to pull the assembly off the jig once again to weld from the bottom.

I did however run out of weld through primer as I was getting ready to fit the other hullside so it stays off until I can pick up some more tomorrow... and some more gas for the welder :p

Lacking anything else I could do at this point I clamped on a couple panels just for grins :)



It is starting to slightly resemble a moke!?

Chris

94touring

I just like the fact you're basically building a moke from scratch.  Almost like you didn't need the shell to begin with, lol. 

clm

I probably didn't need the moke to start with, it might have been cheaper to get a rolling shell, but the original moke is going to provide me with paperwork and all the separate parts to actually build the moke once I have a shell to bolt things to. Basically DMV knows I own a moke... I just have to get one together that is safe to use ;) Not really any worse off then some pup or cooper restores. On the plus point.. I do plan to reuse the front >.>

Chris

clm

I was able to get both hull sides welded in to the point that I could start fitting the seat crossmember!

This is a mile post of this build, the first original part that is being attached to the shell :)



There is also a monsterous load of weld cleanup to do... GOD I wish I could have gotten the spot welder functional! :(

Once the seat crossmember is fully mounted from the top I need to pull the pan out and weld from the bottom, and once that's done I get to start repairing the front end! Oh JOY.

Hopefully I can get the final panels from m-parts sometime in the next couple of weeks.

The Seat crossmember is fairly nice fitting.... :)



Chris

94touring

Weld cleanup, always a fun time.   11.gif

clm

Yeah I know.. though I think the more appropriate icon....

50.gif 50.gif 50.gif 50.gif 50.gif 50.gif

Hey all, big day, I started working on the repairs the front end needs before it can be attached, I homed in on the rusty flitches to start with. Made myself a nice masking tape pattern, transferred it to steel, fitted and started welding... with my amperage too high holes everywhere! wheee. Turned the heat down and managed to weld it all on, there will be a bit of cleanup but it has penetration...









When I was cutting metal off of the front end I came to a rather nasty surprise, the insides of the window strengtheners are rather pitted and they need to be replaced, I do think they will last this summer however and being on the top of the moke they are rather easy to get to for replacement.

I have to get this rolling by June D: In an incomplete state if need be..  But drive able. 250 miles away there is going to be Mini Meet West 2013 I have to go in the moke! =)

My Dad showed up in the evening hours and we pulled the tub off of the jig and turned it over so I can get to the welds along the bottom of the seat cross member and the hull sides.





Until next update.
The cut burned smashed bloody
Chris

clm

Ow... I rang my bell today, I stepped out of the back door stepped on the back porch step and landed on my... tailpipe.

But aside from that, I worked a bit more on the front, I had to peel off the old bits of steel, I also had to rebuild the upper edge of the inner flitch and then test fit the sloping section.



Once that was fitting well, I proceeded to cut off the old right hand wing and clean stuff up so I can fit the new wing which needed trimming.. cutting apart that new panel was a bit nerve wracking. But with some measuring and trimming everything seems to fit quite well.







I managed to grind down some welds but others were currently in some awkward spots that I will get to when I can re-position the front a bit, but first I figured I would get the primary repairs done.

The front panel is likely going to have it's corners replaced... later. For right now I am going to just rivet that corner in place.. A bodge but one I plan to redo after this summer.

I also got some welding done on the underside of the pan but my primary focus has been the front end.... oh yeah. I also paid for my order from m-parts. The final damage was $361.92 shipped.

Chris

Mudhen

Loving the progress!   4.gif

Bent tailpipes hurt....  :-[

I've had that problem, too - where there's metal I need to grind down but can't access it.  Anyone out there have any tips?  A broken piece of file or something?

(I should say that the only tool I ever use is my angle grinder...if that doesn't work....I'm lost  lol)

clm

Well, I will get out the air die grinder if I really need to, for now I will keep doing what I am doing :)

Chris

clm

#43
Well, since the last post I have welded that one wing on, still need to grind down the welds, the story of my life... It managed to line up and be square, the sloping section fits on perfectly.







From there I started cleaning up the pannier tops, although I have no pictures of that currently. I took and removed the strip of toeboard left on the front bulkhead and I had to weld up the large holes in where someone had some random heater crudely installed. It left me with a bit of oilcanning below that but that should go away once it is welded to the toeboard.





(one question, that hole to the left of the patch, that looks factory.. is it?)

This morning I went out and decided I really needed to work on the back part of the other fender as well as the other rotten flitch sections, I think the flitch is turning out better then the first one I did heh. I did find another small patch of rust in the front bulkhead that will need a small patch, you will see that later. The flitch repair was a bit oversized, seeing as I used the pattern I had made for the other side for this one, just needs a little trimming ;)










Another thing I found.... the pan fit in the jig quite well.. upside down and backwards! lol It made it fairly easy to do the welding on the bottom (not pictured).



Aside from that I have been going though the parts and pieces I will need in this moke, I brought my built up rear subframe that I removed from my woody home. When I pulled the brake drums, which were easier then any that I had pulled off on a mini before, everything inside looked new. The brake adjusters still spin just like they are supposed to, the screws holding the drums to the spindle look new... I am just going to use it as is I think. I have also got the bean cans from the same car out and they still look serviceable.

What doesn't look serviceable however is my pedal assembly, the shaft is seized in one of the pedals and I think I am going to have to cut them out... thankfully I have a donor set (again from that poor woody! That was a well spent $400!) That has almost new looking pedals spring and other hardware, but the main cage is bent. They should work well.

Oh well, marching on.

Chris

Willie_B

The hole left of the patch is for the choke cable I believe.

clm

Thanks Willie!

It's a GOOD THING I didn't weld it up then!

Chris

clm

I got a call at about 8:30 am this morning, My subframe had been sandblasted! So $40 out the door and I have one sandblasted subframe on my hands. So that is what I did today, cleaned repaired and primed.

Before



and After.





I also received a nice package in the mail; a pair of disk c.v. joints, a pair of older Minispares reproduction 7.5 calipers unused, and a rats nest. Overjoyed.. and forgot to take pictures! >.<


I have ordered the bits I need to assemble the front subframe and I pulled out the chop saw to cut the brake pedal pivot shaft which unfortunately had seized in one of the pedals. Thankfully I had a spare pedal box from the wagon that was rather bent.. but only bent in the frame, the shaft and the pedals are perfect.



Unfortunately I pretty much destroyed the old pedals, but the ones from the saloon fit just fine and with a well greased shaft it went together easily :)

Untill next time!
Chris

clm

I got my first suspension parts in the mail the other day, a pair of new cones some Ripspeed hi-los for the front and the lower arm bushings, I still have an order out for the rest of the bits I need to make a rolling subframe.



I do find it odd that these Ripspeed hi-los include knucklejoint cups... but no knuckle joints, causing you(me) to buy two knuckle joints which will also come with two... cups. Odd.

I have all the work I needed to do to the front end before I could fit it done, The last I needed to do was to finish fitting the last front sloping section, I had already fit the new wing and even more recently fit the new end I had made.









with it all together It came time to start fitting the front to the pan, The front was easy enough to get on the jig.



But I could only get the pan part way up by myself, In the end I enlisted my father to help me fit the pan to the nose, I will need to do some jacking and pushing at the seams as while it is close, it's not quite perfect.





And before I called it a night, for grins I clamped the pannier side and rear wing on for the hell of it :)



I am still waiting on M-parts to get this order together, but things are still moving along fairly well. I see my next few days filled with banging prying and jacking with a bit of welding thrown in for good measure.

Until next time.
Chris

Mudhen

I see a Moke!   4.gif

Googling 'Ripspeed' hilos...'the only RAC homologated set available'.  That sounds good to me - I'd been wondering if the $3 ones on Ebay would stand up to competition.

They seem hard to find???  Where did you get them?

clm

The Hi-los? I got them from mini spares, not really all that expensive either.

Chris