1275 A+ Engine Build

[MiniDave]

My crappy clubby wagon is the perfect candidate for straight line speed though.

I know where there's a 200 hp motor, gearbox, subframe and everything just waiting to go into a Clubby - cheap too!

[94touring]

So tempting too but I'm trying my best to avoid more projects.  I need to do my manifold conversion on the rx7 first anyways. 

The even lighter lightened flywheel! 

[MiniDave]

I'll have it done tomorrow and into the engine stand, then Sat I plan to run it a bit and do a basic setup on the carbs. Styers and Ipock are planning to come by Sat to see/hear it run too.......

[94touring]

To hear the wrath of the beast!  Do they know about the rest of the car mods?

[MiniDave]

yeah, I told them what all we did....

[MiniDave]

It's Alive! (again)   ;D

First vid with Muffler, and second video without muffler......

[94touring]

I can't wait to drive it! 

[MiniDave]

The sound quality in the video is really terrible, makes it sound all rattly......but you get the idea. I didn't do any tuning on the carbs, and after I shut it off I noticed it didn't have any oil in the tops of the carbs either, so we can mess with it when you come to get it, I'll just leave it in the stand. It revs nicely and has a real bark to it!

[MiniDave]

Today I got the carbs set up, first I put some oil in the tops of the carbs. I also ran it with the muffler, to mimic what Dan will have on the car rather than letting it run on just the header.

Next I got the engine running and warmed it up on the choke till it would come close to idling. I had set the jets to 2 full turns down, but it was way lean and wouldn't run unless the choke was pulled so I wound the jets down another full turn. That got it closer, but it still took quite a few more flats to get it about right. Dan may wind up putting some richer needles in it once he gets a wideband O2 sensor installed so he can see what it's really doing, but first he needs to get about 500 break in miles on it. Before you can set the mixture you need to equalize the airflow in each carb - it does no good to set the mix if one carb is pulling a lot more air than the other one.

I used the lift pin method to set the mixture, once I got it to idle about 1K rpm, I lift the pin (which lifts the dashpot/needle) the idle speed should increase briefly then drop off again. Once I got that set I reset the idle speed, and locked the two carbs together. It idles nicely at 1K, but it did try to run on just a bit when I shut it off.

At about 3 min in the vid you can hear a whistling sound as the revs drop, that's the alternator which kicked in - I don't have an exciter circuit wired in yet (that turns the light off on the dash) so it took some high revs to get it to kick in, once it did it held 13-14 volts easily, even at idle. Good to know that works too!

[joakwin]

f-ing nice

loving the dual carb set up
must be a pain to set the carbs up to make the same amount of power per side

nice work

[MiniDave]

It's certainly more fiddly than a single carb, but as long as you have the tools - like the unisyn - it's not that big a deal to get them balanced, and once set they usually stay that way for a very long time.   4.gif

My little engine stand works pretty well for stuff like this, it allows me to make sure the engine runs, set the timing and carbs, and make sure it doesn't overheat or leak oil anywhere before the owner puts it in a car.....that gives both of us a lot of confidence when it's installed, knowing that it not only ran but will idle and not leak or run hot.

This engine was spitting oil out of the dipstick hole, so I popped in the dipstick from Dan's other engine - which reminds me - you'll need to get another dipstick at some point, but this one will do for now.

[joakwin]

I had to set the itb's on my last motor, and that's 4 of them linked together
But they have lock nuts and stay linked up, last time I checked the gap, they
We're still on the money, not bad for 5-6 years