My 65 Australian MKI

Started by gr8kornholio, February 11, 2017, 07:28:08 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

gr8kornholio

Success.  With a capital suck.  Finally got it to slide on, then rotated it around and the dots no longer lined up. I was afraid it had slipped but didn't check.  Oops. So off it came and line everything up again and now didn't want to go.  Cam needed turned just a smidge.  Got it turned and finally got it slid on.  Yay.  Now waiting on my pulley and cam nut lock tab.  Hopefully FedEx doesn't drop it in the ocean again.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Spendy bit of kit, but considering my stock style rubber fused one separated just sitting and the previous owners engine rebuild notes list internal damage likely due to balancer separation I'm thinking it was worth the extra money.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

Interesting - the two SPi motors I have in the shop right now don't have balancers on them, just pulleys.....and they're dead stock.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

On a closer examination of the SPi pulley set up I see there's a separate pulley that bolts onto the one that's held on by the crank bolt, and this second one has the rubber in it.

I like the more modern solution, for sure.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Made some more progress today.  Fuel tank in and hooked up to the fuel pump.  Also got the remote shifter back in.  Hoping that since it went together it hooked up correctly.  Guess I'll find out when I get the gear lever on. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Went to fit the carb with my snazzy MED filter and it is smashing into the wiring and speedo cable coming out of the speedo. 

So figure solutions are smaller spacer, current is 1/2".   Adjustable top engine steady to tilt the motor forward a bit.  Or go back to KN chrome cone. 

Issue with smaller spacer is the metal bracket that shields the exhaust and holds the throttle cable may hit manifold.  Also the stud length, may need shorter ones. 

Any issue with the engine steady pushing the engine forward?

Thoughts?  Known solutions?
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

#509
Pushing it forward is not the be all end all of the problem - as you tip it up forward, it comes up which causes interference at the lower edge with the bulkhead. I used a 1/4" spacer instead of 1/2, that seemed to be just enough, or use the K&N which seems to be made for this setup. I can't remember for sure, but I think I had to grind a little off the bracket in one spot for clearance to the manifold, but I think the stud length was OK - seems like I had to start the nuts and move the carb down on the studs as the nuts tightened down. However, it's different for a later model car with the gauges off to one side than for one with the center gauges.

Wait, do you run an HIF44 or twin carbs?

Dan used an MED on his twins and IIRC he had issues too.

I went back to a stock round filter assembly on my car, fits a lot better.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

HIF44.  Yea I figured the whole engine steady may cause other problems.  Mini spares only shows a 3/8" spacer.  Where did you find 1/4"?  Pretty sure that extra space would pull it back far enough.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Jimini II

Quote from: gr8kornholio on October 14, 2021, 05:30:03 PM
Went to fit the carb with my snazzy MED filter and it is smashing into the wiring and speedo cable coming out of the speedo. 

So figure solutions are smaller spacer, current is 1/2".   Adjustable top engine steady to tilt the motor forward a bit.  Or go back to KN chrome cone. 

Issue with smaller spacer is the metal bracket that shields the exhaust and holds the throttle cable may hit manifold.  Also the stud length, may need shorter ones. 

Any issue with the engine steady pushing the engine forward?

Thoughts?  Known solutions?
When the factory installed the 1275 and used the HIF carb in the early 90's they moved the engine mounts forward about 1 inch and fitted a longer engine steady bar.
An MG Metro intake is the correct angle and clears well but are hard to find.
Using the thin spacer and shaving the throttle quadrant helps and an adjustable engine steady along with a cone filter works.

94touring

Only reason I had issues with the twins was I was running tall filters due to tall ram pipes.  On my hif44 everything fits just fine. You'll probably want to start with the upper steady.

gr8kornholio

Going to ask a coworker who I believe has a 3D printer if he can make one, but if not anyone on here make me one?  1/4 carb spacer. 

Reason I'm asking?  7 who seems to be only one who has one wants $16 for it.  Not bad, but $16.50 to ship 0.2 lbs is absolutely ridiculous.  You could literally put it in an envelope and mail it for 2 stamps.  How do these places stay in business. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

cstudep

#514
I could print you one, I already created a 3d model of the spacer for the HS4 and one for the HIF44. But I currently only have a supposedly higher heat PETG at the moment which is what I printed the air intake part out of for Brad. He is supposed to have it tomorrow so it probably wont be long before he can report on how well it holds up to engine bay temps.

I just ordered some special stuff that is supposed to print easy like PLA but have the same heat tolerance and durability as ABS. ABS is a pretty common material used in auto plastic bits it can just be a pain to print with. It would probably be fine on something like the carb spacer but I don't know as I have yet to try printing with it.

Not sure when I will get the new filament to try, but I can get ABS pretty easily. If you do have someone that can print, I can send you the 3d files of the spacer I created if nothing else. I think I printed mine for my test stand at 1/4" thick but I can make it whatever thickness you want.

Here are the ones I made, I posted them a while back in the shop thread. I finally found a HIF44 carb, but wont have it until late this week or early next week some time so I am not 1000% sure it fits but I did take the measurements off of the manifold so it should work. It also has 4 holes in, but in the one I printed I only printed the 2 that align with the HS4 as that is what I was messing around with it on.
http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1810.0;attach=16722;image

gr8kornholio

Thanks for the info and offer.  For now I think I'm going to put the old air cleaner on and get it running.  Keep me posted on the temp hold up or if you get the new stuff in. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

Finally got the distributor and coil back in and lined up.  Thanks for the clarification help Dave.  Keep doing things twice, but great figuring stuff out by doing it wrong once. 

Next is to adjust the valves and get the o2 bung welded in along with the breather modifications to the valve cover.  Speaking of which I bought a cheapo polishing kit from harbor and did a little polishing.  Not professional looking but WAY better than it was. But what a mess that is. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

94touring

The paint needed buffed again?

gr8kornholio

O no, was polishing the aluminum valve cover.  It'd gotten very tarnished looking.  The paint is holding up great.  Doing my best not to scratch it any where.  Had some close calls with tool drops. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

Quote from: gr8kornholio on October 29, 2021, 04:58:43 PM
Next is to adjust the valves

Do you know the rule of 9? To set the valves correctly, when #1 valve is fully open, adjust #8 (1 + 8 = 9), when #2 is fully open adjust #7 and so on right thru the cam. At this point when one is full open the opposite is fully closed, giving you the best setting for clearance. Depending on the cam you should be at either 12 or 15 thou clearance.

I show how this works in one of my engine build videos.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Yea I you tubed it last night.  Good visual too with the explanation.  Thanks.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

Got the exhaust on and ran all the fuel lines.  Checked and flushed the fuel lines before connecting it to the carb and all was good.  Filled with oil, forgot how goopy that stuff is.  Had to let it sit awhile after 3 quarts for it to move out of the rocker cover.  Primed it up a bit.  Hooked up the coil and with video rolling hit the key.   And. Omg is it going to just fire and run after 3 years. Nope.  Sounded great for about 5 seconds and then dies.  Doesn't want to start again.  Waited awhile then tried it and same as first time.  Ok, message Dave.  Flooding, ok, hif44 single carb.  Most likely choke o ring.  Fun.

Just to be thorough any other thoughts on a flooding hif44.  Thanks.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

94touring

That will definitely flood it.  The plugs are sooty black and maybe wet?

gr8kornholio

Didn't check them. I did buy new ones so thanks for reminding me I didn't put them in.  Lol.  The old ones were a little black.

I did get my o2 sensor in so will be able to dial in a/f mixture. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

94touring

Make sure you actually check the plugs or have that 02 in there to see that it's actually flooding.  Might save you some time pulling the carb to put in a new o ring for the choke.