Racing Green 89 Mini

[MiniDave]

So it's been a year since I posted anything in this thread....just for fun I re-read the whole thing and it's kinda funny - several things popped up repeatedly in the thread from the get go - rebuilding the front brake calipers, fixing the rattle in the heater box, replacing the shift shaft seal (say that fast three times!) - none of which I have done yet, and it will be 5 years that I've owned this car in a couple of months!  8.gif :-[ ::)

So, we have a run to Texas coming up quick and I'm trying to get ready for it but as usual have a lot of other projects to catch up on, this time because of my knee surgery keeping me out of the shop for a while, right when I had an influx of work.

Lately I've been told the engine is smoking quite a bit, especially on deceleration - when in Aspen in the summer of 2019 as I was coming down the mountain for the first time I saw a huge cloud of blue smoke behind me! It never did that again, but......

Then the last local club event I did which was  a trip up to Leavenworth and then out to Lake Perry, I noticed an ominous bearing noise coming from the transmission......the handwriting was on the wall.

I had already acquired an engine trans combo that's supposed to be good, so I had already decided to just swap them out - but first I decided to clean some of the muck off.

Once that was done I noticed how dingy and grotty the engine paint looked, so I decided a little red Rust Oleum would smarten things up a bit......you all know where this is heading, don't you.....

So I started with the paintwork, and it definitely looked better! Then I found the clutch arm frozen solid, so I pulled the wok off, and saw a lot of oily stuff thrown around the inside of the drop gears housing, so decided to change the rear seal - which means pulling the drop gears housing off. It was pretty corroded looking so I set at it with wire brushes in my angle grinder and drill and it came up pretty nice, so I shot a coat of etch primer on it, then a top coat of dull silver. The clutch slave bracket was really rusted, so I went after it the same way and shot it in black. I bought the rear seal installation tool from Spares and I really like it - in the past I just used tape over the splines on the primary gear and it certainly worked, but this thing is slick!

So then I had to go after the corrosion on the wok too - and of course drive out the pins and the clutch arms and plunger - then clean all the rust and corrosion off them too. so then I painted the wok the same way and of course, it all looks mahvelous!

Then I went to the front - I decided to replace the water pump just because - this time I ordered the right one - no bypass - and I also had to pull the thermostat housing as it uses a different setup that the RG uses. I put a new thermostat in too - same reason as the water pump.

Then I noticed how nasty and rusty the timing chain cover was, so off it came and got the same treatment as the clutch end parts, only black paint again and a new seal of course. The chain and tensioner look OK so I left them alone. When I went to see if I had a late model timing cover gasket I couldn't find any, so I ordered three, only to find that I did in fact have one - in fact I had three - I have since thoroughly re-organized my spare gaskets!

The oil pressure pipe was in equally bad shape so I redid it, which meant removing the oil filter housing. I didn't realize these newer engines use a rubber seal on the pipe, either. These are hard but not leaking and as I had already ordered all the other parts and don't have time for another order, I re-used them.

So, I have a new clutch and water pump on the way, I have a light flywheel to use already, and once those are here it should be ready to drop into the RG. But, while I have the subframe out I'm going to rebuild those damn calipers finally, and I have a new set of rotors on the shelf so it will get those too. I will not have time to fix the rattle in the heater box, but I did replace the shift shaft seal and the axle seals. I also have a new set of pot joints as the ones on the new engine were worn.

The last thing I noticed is that the SPi head isn't drilled for a temp sender or a heater tap. The heater tap doesn't matter as my car has the later style one on the bulkhead, but I didn't want to lose my temp gauge, so after I figured out what thread it was I found a correct tap at my local Ace Hardware - they didn't have the correct 37/64 drill bit, but as luck would have it, I did! So I drilled and tapped the head for the temp sensor.

Lots to do yet, as getting the engine out will require some help as I cannot get down under the car and back up off the floor again, Don and Styers have volunteered to come help with the under the car stuff and I will take them up on it.

Of course, after all this if I find the engine doesn't run well or the gearbox is naft....I'll be doing it all again!

[MiniDave]

One more axle to pull and she's ready to come out. The right axle pot joint was full of oil, glad I have a new pair coming with the clutch order. I could not get the exhaust header loose from the pipe, and I really don't want to break out the acetylene torch, so I just tipped the engine forward and pried it off the back of the head.

This engine has been leaking oil from everywhere....hope I got all the potential leaks stopped up on the replacement. New axle seals, new front and rear crank seals and so on. It wasn't really leaking anywhere that i could see, but there was a lot of mud all over it from the miles.

Getting under the car wasn't a problem, but getting up again sure is!

[94touring]

That new motor sure will look a lot better than that oily mess!

[MiniDave]

Well, it's out. I could not get the header loose from the pipes, so I had to tip the engine up on one end - WAY up - and remove everything I could to make room to get it past the header. It was not easy but clearly it came out.

It's obvious that the new one won't go back in the same way, but with the engine out it will be easier to get the acetylene torch on the pipes and burn the rust out - then I can work them back and forth and hopefully they'll come apart.....if not, I'll have to cut them out and install a new header....

Next up I'll clean as much of the oily mess out while I'm waiting for the new clutch - which is supposed to be delivered Monday or Tuesday. That will be cutting it close for getting it back in and driving it a bit before I hit the road for Texas.

[MiniDave]

Just noticed.....looks like I may have had an exhaust leak from the center pipe at the head - strange cause I never heard anything and the gasket doesn't look like it's leaking, but the evidence is sure there on the back of the valve cover....if not exhaust, what else could it be that would make that pattern?

[MiniDave]

This engine also had one of the high torque starters on it - I don't know why given that it appears to be a stock engine - but these don't fit in these newer cars very well because the engine sits 1/2" further forward, and the starter solenoid is sitting forward rather than on top of the starter. In this one it looks like either this bracket was modified or broken and repaired. either way it's broken now, so I'll have to make a small patch. The starter was also rubbing against either this bracket or the front lip of the grill opening - I'm hopeful that was one of the rattles I was chasing and could never find.

I'll use the stock starter that was on the SPi engine when I put it in the car.

[BruceK]

These cars are sneaky!  My car also has a rattle/buzz that I can't find.  Only occurs at certain frequency of engine rpms.  Drives me crazy.

[MiniDave]

I know where one of mine is, I still haven't fixed the heater door rattle! 5 years now! I just keep the heater door closed....  ::)

[Willie_B]

These cars are sneaky!  My car also has a rattle/buzz that I can't find.  Only occurs at certain frequency of engine rpms.  Drives me crazy.

Back when I had a Bugeye I had a rpm based noise. The lower bracket that goes to the alt. had cracked on one side. At the right rpm the torque would open the crack and allow it to make that noise.

[MiniDave]

Well the one I'm thinking of sounds like it's right in the dash, but I wonder now if that starter hitting the front was just transmitting thru the car like a soundboard, setting up a sympathetic vibration? I won't know till I put it back together...

Don came over and we broke out the acetylene torch and once we got them cherry red the pipes came apart easily - for those who might try this at home, I really doubt you can get them hot enough with either propane or map gas - but an oxy/acetylene WILL do the trick! I'll clean everything up with a wire brush in the angle grinder and use some sealer when I put them back together. I broke two of the three bolts in the band clamps, so I'll have to replace those - they use a carriage head bolt but I'll just tack weld in some regular ones.

I also needed to get the nut loose on the oil pipe that goes to the filter housing, I find this a lot where it wants to twist the pipe instead of rotating on the pipe as you try to take it loose. Once again, getting it good and red will do the trick, then I can slide the nut up the pipe and wire brush under it so it spins freely. I always add a little oil in there but over time I guess it rusts again.

I think I've had my torch setup since about 1968, I remember using it on my first Mini too!

The other job I have to do is try to rinse out the heater core, like all Minis the water that came out of this thing was just nasty brown goop. The SPi engine seems pretty clean, it had nice green anti freeze in it. The radiator rinsed out easily so the only thing left is the heater core. I'll probably just run water in it on the Texas trip since cold nights won't be a factor, then flush it good when I get home again.....if I have time I'll flush it here before I leave too.

The aluminium radiator core is absolutely black with oily residue, so I'll need to clean it thoroughly too....

[cstudep]

Those short oxy/acetylene bottles would be a whole lot more handy to move around than the full size ones I have. Those damn things are heavy, and no more than I use it those little bottles would last quite a while. Some of the HVAC guys around here have little portable oxy/acetylene setups that I have always thought would be quite handy.

[tmsmini]

Check the intake manifold for sludge as well. There are many reports of them being clogged up and giving faulty temp sesnor readings.

[MiniDave]

Paul, they have little portable units in a plastic carry case too....

tmsmini, I wasn't getting any erroneous readings on my temp gauge, as this isn't an SPi motor, it's simply a carbed A+. The one I'm installing used to be an SPi but it will run a carb and dizzy when it goes back in the RG.

[MPlayle]

For that possible exhaust leak on the center port, I would look at the weld for the flange to down-pipe to see if there is any cracking there.

[tmsmini]

tmsmini, I wasn't getting any erroneous readings on my temp gauge, as this isn't an SPi motor, it's simply a carbed A+. The one I'm installing used to be an SPi but it will run a carb and dizzy when it goes back in the RG.

Got it!

[MiniDave]

Well, I found my exhaust leak - not only that, I now know why I always smelled exhaust anytime the windows were open.....the header is split right in the valley of the Y, all the way around and down both sides. Although it's odd that there wasn't any exhaust stain on the pipes.

So, I got out the Mig welder, only to find out that I had left the gas valve open and the tank was empty.

So, I drug the acetylene welder up from the basement again, but the only tip retaining nut I had was the cutting torch tip which was too big for this, so I'm dead in the water till Monday when I can get the gas refilled and/or a nut to attach one of my acetylene tips that will fit my torch.

My backup plan is that I have another header, but it's a single pipe instead of a double, but I have a straight pipe connector too so I have everything I need to go that way if necessary.

But before I did any of that I took a file to the center pipe flange and flatted it off.

it's always sumthin....but it's nice to figure out the problem

[tsumini]

The exhaust blowby track on the head/valve cover is way too far away for the exhaust Y crack to cause the track. It looks to me like the blowby is coming from behind the gasket. Front of gasket was sealing fine.

[MiniDave]

Well, I decided to go ahead and use the new one I have on hand anyway....I'll weld up the old one and use it on the engine stand.

Got some good news today - DHL delivered my clutch! I've never had them deliver on a Sat before, so that gives me a jump start on getting the engine back in the car and maybe a couple more days of drive time to sort out anything that comes up.

I've already got the clutch and flywheel installed, and the new clutch arm and all installed too, so the back end is pretty much buttoned up. I also got the water pump on,, so the front end is done too. I'm going to go thru the valve adjustment again as it's much easier to do on the bench than on the lift, then install the new pot joints and she'll be ready to drop in once I clean up the axles.

I also need to get the collector off the pipe under the car, I hope I don't have to fire up the torch again to get it off but if I do it's already upstairs at least.

I still have a lot of parts to clean up before I can put them back on the engine - me and Edd don't see eye to eye on putting dirty parts back on an engine.   ;D

[MiniDave]

I may have cleared up yet another issue with this car.....the front end has always had an odd intermittent wobble, between 45 and 55 mph, above that it pretty much went away. I bought a new set of pot joints for this SPi engine as I knew that my outer joints were good as I had them apart a while ago and repacked them with grease but I did not do anything then with the pot joints.

The new pot joints are made slightly differently than the old ones, in how the boot attaches, there is a sleeve inside  - so when you replace them all you do is make sure the splines are clean and greased and the circlip is good on the end, then pop them on - the new ones already have boots installed and are packed with grease too.

So, back to the green car, when I went to remove the inner part of the old pot joint I found one almost siezed - it had been leaking engine oil into the joint too, which is probably what killed it as it waters down the grease to barely more than the oil. I had to cut the inner part off as it was rusted to the splines, the other one was fine and drove right off the way it should.

So, with new smooth inner joints I'm hopeful that at last I'll have a Mini that drives normally!

[94touring]

And then we fix the rust, paint it, put a turbo on it, and you keep it.  77.gif

[MiniDave]

Alrighty then, while on the bench I replaced the shift shaft seal, the two axle seals and the pot joints. I also decided to reuse the mechanical fuel pump as it was working fine - but that meant I had to make a couple of gaskets as I didn't have any for it.

With that all done it was time to lift it into the car.....I had to set it at an extreme angle to get it to clear the brake booster and it was a bit of a challenge getting it down into place, but it finally went in and I got the motor mounts bolted up.

Still lots to do of course, but I hope to have it running and driving on Tuesday so I can put some miles on it before heading to Texas next weekend.

I decided to go ahead and use the new single pipe header I already have rather than attempt to weld up the old one - even tho I'm sure I can do it - I don't have any weld gas, and they really don't like you to carry it home in your car - it makes a hell of a mess when one blows up in a car!

To that end I did have to get the torch fired up again so I could get the twin pipe collector off the main pipe - it took a LOT of heating before I got it loose, but it came off in the end. Never could have gotten it off without the torch.

I'm done for tonight, and I have PT tomorrow so I won't get back to it till afternoon again. Still a lot of parts to clean up before they go back on, and darn it if I didn't forget to put the speedo cable on while it was easily accessible! Oh well, as long as the radiator is out of the way it's do-able.

Sure is bright in there!

[BruceK]

Looking good there Dave!

[MiniDave]

I forgot I have to drill and tap for the heater take off at the end of the head.....don't know why I didn't do that while it was on the bench..... ::)

[MiniDave]

More stuff is done, radiator is cleaned, about all I have left is to put the axles back in and bolt up all the suspension. Then I have to chose which carb and intake to use - the one that's on there works perfectly fine but is dirty and will need a LOT of cleanup. The one that I use in the test stand is clean and new looking, but I'll need to make sure I have all the linkage and that it has the right needle before I put it on......

The exhaust went together perfectly once I got the old parts off, so maybe I won't have exhaust fumes in the car this trip!

I'm also very hopeful that I've cured the "death wobble" it has between 45-55mph, that was extremely annoying as so much of our driving was actually at that speed....it went away under load or above 55, but under deceleration or light load it was really bad.

I also need to rotate the tires, fill the oil and then see if it will run. I decided not to tap the end of the head for the heater take off, but rather just put the SPi thermostat base back on, as it has the takeoff built in. that will simplify the hose arrangement under the hood too, but I won't be using the heat thru the manifold as I planned to do - no matter, it hasn't had it plumbed up all this time anyway!  ::)

Lots more to do but if all goes well, I should be driving it later today.....depending on how badly they beat me up at PT this morning.

[BruceK]

All that work done quickly?  You might actually know a thing or two about these cars!  ;D