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Daves Garage / Re: Sprite Race Gearbox Build
« Last post by MiniDave on September 24, 2021, 09:20:33 AM »
Wow, this first gearbox is an absolute was partially disassembled when it came into the shop and when I finished taking it apart I found all sorts of things wrong, detents in the wrong place, balls instead of plungers - the wrong springs used, parts missing.....I hope I have enough left over scraps from other boxes that were junked to build this one. Some of the little parts I need are just not available anymore.....

I can always tell when someone has been working on one of these - or on a Mini engine - things like nuts removed with a hammer and chisel, RTV squirting out of every joint and of course, things put together wrong. I'm surprised this one even worked - if it did!

The bearing plate is supposed to have a round hole with a peg in it to locate the plate in the correct orientation - I'm not sure how I'm going to fix that....I may have another plate but I know I don't have the peg, and those are not available.

One interesting thing I found - the splines on the input shaft (where the clutch disc rides) are the same as the splines on the output shaft where the driveshaft slips into the gearbox - so I use a driveshaft yoke to hold the shaft so I can tighten or remove the big nut on the shaft - instead of using a hammer and chisel like they did on this one.

Just got the email from DHL on my Mini parts, it says Wed delivery - which usually means Tuesday so, the race is on! I think the parts from Virginia will get here first, but the ones from California might get beat by the ones from England!
Daves Garage / Re: Engine Rebuild Videos
« Last post by MiniDave on September 23, 2021, 03:00:44 PM »
I placed an order to MiniSpares last Thursday, and one to Moss on Monday of this week, and I wondered which would get here sooner - it's still a toss up as I haven't gotten a ship notice yet from DHL and it's usually at least three days from then that parts arrive. I did get ship notices from Moss, 1/2 of my parts are coming from Virginia, the other half from California! Still a toss up on whether England or the US parts will arrive first!
Daves Garage / Re: 998 Automatic #2 Rebuild
« Last post by MiniDave on September 23, 2021, 02:57:09 PM »
If you all remember, I was concerned this engine might run hot because of all the debris and rust I had to dig out of the head and the block that was blocking all the water passages, luckily it looks like that won't be a concern after all, it never went above 170 on my test stand!
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: AFR/Wideband bung position
« Last post by bikewiz on September 21, 2021, 09:05:47 PM »
OK cool. Looks like X marks the spot.
Daves Garage / Re: Sprite Race Engine Rebuild for Dave L
« Last post by MiniDave on September 21, 2021, 08:22:09 PM »
Dave missed the race in Texas last weekend due to health issues, but he's hoping to make the Lake Garnet Grand Prix in Oct with his Lotus 7. To that end I loaned him a stock cylinder head - he has an aluminum head on it now but he changed to 1.5 rockers and bent all the pushrods, since then even after replacing all the bent parts it hasn't run right, so I loaned him a stock cast iron 12G940 head to make sure that the aluminum one isn't causing the problem. I hope he gets well soon enough to finish the engine and get it running.....
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: AFR/Wideband bung position
« Last post by tmsmini on September 21, 2021, 07:22:32 PM »
I ran our cars with the injection LCB for quite awhile. I did not really seem to have issues.
I wonder if there is a difference between wideband and narrowband acceptable locations.
The cast manifold has the sensor even closer to the head.

With the wideband in the injection car using the cast manifold, I do see some pulsing. That may be normal with the charge robbing going on. The injection LCB only sees two cylinders.
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: AFR/Wideband bung position
« Last post by John Gervais on September 21, 2021, 06:17:50 PM »
The biggest problem with mine is that the bung is positioned slightly wrong - I can't get the manifold out because it interferes with the left pot joint, so I've got to pop it out to remove it.  If I'd have moved it up at a slightly higher upward angle, it would have been fine.  Next time...
Daves Garage / Re: 998 Automatic #2 Rebuild
« Last post by MiniDave on September 21, 2021, 06:07:01 PM »
It was so cool out today that the engine was dead cold this afternoon, so I checked the head torque again (it didn't pull down any further) and rechecked the valves, and found a couple of loose ones.

So I fired it up again and let it warm up - put oil in the top of the carb that I had forgotten to do, then once it was fully warmed up I set the mixture a little better and it runs and idles sweetly now.

Done and done.

All that's left is to drain the water out.....I may let him add coolant later as I have a feeling this one might sit for a while before it's run again. Or I might go ahead and charge it with coolant......we'll see.

I do need to get yet some more oil for it - there's 8 quarts in it now and I think it needs another 1 1/2!
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: AFR/Wideband bung position
« Last post by MPlayle on September 21, 2021, 05:13:45 PM »
Here is a picture from when I converted "Flur" from SPI to Carb.  I circled and labeled the factory O2 sensor.  The factory SPI manifold is cast iron like Dave said and all three "branches" converge where the factory sensor is and a single down-pipe goes from there.

Maintenance and Modifications / Re: AFR/Wideband bung position
« Last post by MiniDave on September 21, 2021, 04:06:49 PM »
I agree, it should be in the collector.....but I do wonder why the factory would put it there? IIRC the SPi was a cast iron manifold, so maybe that had something to do with the location?
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