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Shop Tools And Equipment / Re: Balanced Rotisserie
« Last post by skmini on Today at 08:58:38 AM »
Building the front attachment

1. 32" 1x2 bar across the top subframe mounts with a 4" piece of 1x2 underneath each subframe bolt and 6" 5/8-11 bolts used to bolt it in.  This may be different if you have a Mk1/2/3 body.
2. 2 26" 1x2 bar extending out the front welded to the 32" 1x2 bar 16" apart on the outside.
3. 2 16" 2" angle welded to the 2 26" 1x2 bar, level vertically and centered 16" from the floor of the Mini.

As you can see, the top of front crossmember is quite a bit higher than 16" from the floor, and at a bit of an angle.  The important thing is that the 2" angle is level vertically.  This will make it parallel to the equivalent 2" angle on the rear and make sure the pivot points are in line.

1. 2 16" 2" angle pieces with a 16.5" 1x2 tube welded in the middle for the pivot.  This was done the same way it was at the front by clamping the angle and 1x2 tube and then welding the 1x2 tube to the angle.  Note I've also drilled the 5/8" hole in the middle of the 1x2 tube.
2. 2 25" 1" square tubes to tie into the steering rack mounts.  These are then bolted to the steering rack mounts and bolted to the two 26" 1x2 bars.  I chose the steering rack mounts because the holes are in line vertically and happened to line up fairly well to the 1x2 bars.
Shop Tools And Equipment / Re: Balanced Rotisserie
« Last post by skmini on Today at 08:20:51 AM »
Building the rear attachment

For both the front and rear attachments, I wanted something that ended up level vertically and with some wiggle room to be able to move the pivot point up and down in case 16" didn't work.  I had the shell with its floor on a dolly, so the floor was level and it would be easy to measure 16" up from the floor.

1. a 41" 1x2 bar across the shock towers.
2. 2 24" 1x2 bars 16" apart on the outside perpendicular to that bar towards the rear
3. a 41" 1" square bar across the parcel shelf, bolted to a handy reinforcement
4. 2 6" 1" square bar pieces welded to two 4" 2" angle pieces.  These were welded to the parcel shelf bar and bolted to the 2 24" 1x2 bars.

I didn't worry about getting any of the above pieces level, just straight and at right angles.  Then, the pivot point attachements:

1. 2 16" 2" angle pieces welded to the 24" 1x2 bars.  I made sure these were level vertically in both dimensions, and centered on 16" from the floor.  As it turns out, the two 24" 1x2 bars are about 16" from the floor.
2. 2 16" 2" angle pieces joined with a 16.5" 1x2 tube.  I don't have a picture of this, but I built this by clamping the 2" angle pieces to the 2" angle pieces that were already welded to the rear attachement and then welded the 1x2 tube to them, centered and level.
Shop Tools And Equipment / Balanced Rotisserie
« Last post by skmini on Today at 08:06:46 AM » sells a rotisserie for the Mini that does not involve a tube going through the middle of the Mini; it attaches where the front subframe does and across the shock towers and parcel shelf in the rear.  In a thread on theminiforum where someone was complaining about how difficult the Mini is to turn on the rotisserie, someone else commented that if you have it balanced correctly, it's easy to turn and the balance point is about 16" up from the floor.

I've got a Mk4 Mini without the cutout in the rear seat back and I wasn't keen on cutting a hole there.  Seeing all the schemes for locking the rotation of the Mini and various levers and hydraulic jacks for rotating it, something that was better balanced sounded good to me, so I built one using the one as inspiration.  The result is a rotisserie that has no method of locking the shell in place; it's balanced well enough and there's enough friction in the pivots that I can easily rotate it and it will stay in place for most things I need to do.

A couple of things I kept in mind:
1.  The center of gravity of a saloon shell without doors, bootlid or hood is 16" up from the floor.
2.  A 5/8 bolt fits nicely in 1/2" black pipe and makes a nice hinge/pivot of any length you would like.

Materials I used:

34' of 1x2 tube
8' of 1.5" tube (just what I had on hand, could/should have used 1x2 or 1x1 tube for this)
12' of 2" angle
31' of 1" tube
4' of 1.5" angle
8" of 1/2" black pipe
4 5/8-11 6" bolts, matching lock nuts and flat washers
4 casters


I don't have any.  Something I enjoy with welding is how easy it is to fab things up on the fly, so I basically made this up as I went and built it in situ.  For the attachment points on the Mini, this probably isn't a bad idea.  For example, I was able to take advantage of some reinforcing brackets on the parcel shelf that may or may not exist on your Mini, and we all know no two Minis are exactly the same dimensions.  That being said, I did make a few sketches and calculations ahead of time to give me a rough idea of how I was going to build the stands everything sits on.  Needs to be at a height where I can rotate the shell without hitting the floor or the 8' ceiling.  I chose an equilateral 48" triangle, so the 1x2 tubes angling up towards the pivot are each 48" and so is the 1.5" square tube joining them at the bottom.  The jig uses some bolts and brackets at the bottom so you can fold the stand up and make it easier to assemble without welding.  I welded everything together because I'm likely to only need the rotisserie for this car.  I'm planning to cut everything apart once I'm done and repurpose the steel for other projects.
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Pre-verto slave question
« Last post by Jimini II on January 20, 2022, 08:30:57 PM »
I believe they did have circlips years ago but the new aftermarket ones don't seem to use them.
Daves Garage / Re: '09 MINI Clubman S
« Last post by MiniDave on January 20, 2022, 06:42:20 PM »
I'm not aware of any aftermarket metal ones, but the prices are all over the I may try an aftermarket one - they all look exactly the same.
Daves Garage / Re: '09 MINI Clubman S
« Last post by BruceK on January 20, 2022, 05:45:06 PM »
Great that you found it. Are you going it replace it with a stock BMW piece, or an aftermarket one? 

When I replaced my MINIís supercharger 2 years ago, I ditched the OEM plastic thermostat housing (which was not yet leaking) and instead installed an aftermarket metal thermostat housing for piece of mind, and I hopefully gained some better longevity with it. Obviously, Iíve got a different engine and different thermostat housing (nowhere near as complex or convoluted as yours) but Iím not a fan of the plastic ones.
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Pre-verto slave question
« Last post by MiniDave on January 20, 2022, 03:52:14 PM »
No circlip - I only remember a circlip on the master cylinder.

None of the ones I have have a circlip, and I have accidentally stepped on a clutch pedal before and blown one apart.

I never have had any issue bleeding a clutch - they're kinda self bleeding. But all I do is stick a hose on it, put the hose end in about 1" of clean fluid and push the pedal down about three times - slowly, not stomp on it. Then close the bleeder and it's usually good to go
Maintenance and Modifications / Pre-verto slave question
« Last post by Willie_B on January 20, 2022, 03:25:09 PM »
Still working on clutch issues on the Woody revival. I got a new original Lockheed version. Installed it but left it loose so I can point the bleed opening up for easier bleeding. When I added system pressure the guts blew out along with brake fluid everywhere. There was NO circlip holding it together. Could anyone confirm if there should be a clip? The aftermarket version I know does have the clip.

It came from Minispares. I have contacted them but it already late for them.
Daves Garage / Re: '09 MINI Clubman S
« Last post by MiniDave on January 20, 2022, 02:35:13 PM »
 I found my leak.....

I drove 30 miles or so out to the engine shop to pick up the block and pistons, I was about 3 blocks away and suddenly I smelled coolant - I parked in their lot and went inside to pay and to load up. when I came back out there was a fair sized puddle on the ground. They topped off the tank for me and I headed back home - on the drive home I didn't smell coolant at all till I pulled into my driveway - then it hit really hard.

I backed into the drive and unloaded then opened the hood again and I could clearly see coolant on the gearbox, which is on the left side of the car - only thing there is the thermostat, and these are made of plastic and have a reputation for failing - mine was replaced at about 50K miles because it seemed to take the car forever to warm up.

Here's what it looks like - it's a very odd conglomeration of components including the temp sensor - which you can't buy separately BTW - and it is a "2 speed" device. Normally the car will run right at 225*, but if you're driving above 80 mph and/or have the A/C set to max, a second port opens and it runs 185*!

Leave it to BMW to over engineer something as simple as a thermostat    ::)

Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Mini compatible Parts
« Last post by MiniDave on January 20, 2022, 12:31:19 PM »
However, if you're running one of the inexpensive chinesium radiators from ebay, the cap is a Honda Civic cap
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