Converting SPI to Carb

Started by MPlayle, March 11, 2016, 08:04:05 AM

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MiniDave

4 pin and 5 pin are the same relay,  but the 5 pin can be wired either normally open or normally closed, the 4 pin is normally open only. most relays have a wiring schematic embossed on the case you can follow.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

Ditto what Dave said about the relays.  I used basic 4-pin ones from the local auto parts store.  Use the 5-pin you have in the "normally open" mode - ie: putting power to the low side closes the relay and energizes the high power side.

I believe all the notes and information I generated when I did the conversion are already attached in this thread.  I will have to reread the thread to be sure.


MiniMike

Thanks guys. I appreciate it!
'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MPlayle

I just did a quick check for my hand-written notes and could not find them.  They may be in some stuff in the garage. 

I re-read the thread and in the post detailing the actual wiring changes, I appear to have fully transcribed the content of the hand-written notes.


MiniMike

Your notes have gotten me pretty far so far! I have deconstructed the sub harness I do have a question. On the part where you have #8

"The thick white with pink trace is the return side of the trigger for the starter relay - paired with the white/red in #7 above.  This wire is a color mismatch from the wiring diagram - the diagram shows it should be white/light-green (automatic transmission) or black (manual transmission).  The connection was confirmed by continuity test through the original relay box.  This white/pink wire will be re-used with the white/red for the starter relay."

I don't have have the white with pink or black. There was a thick black that was attached to the smaller relay box connector. I have kept that with the white and red in case that's the black one you mentioned.

'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MiniMike

Ok I've been trying to route the wires for the two new relays. I've been staring at your pictures but not confident in the orientation off your pictures.

Relay #1
Br/ R - 87
2 Br wires - 30
W/ R - 86
Bk- 85 (ground? This is the white pink wire I didn't have that you did)

Relay #2 (not sure about the order of this one)
W -86
Br - 30 or 85?
Br/ Gr - 87
Br/ P 85 or 30?

Guys I appreciate all the help so far and for the write up that has gotten me this far. This is the last step for me hopefully haha

'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MiniDave

85 and 86 are the terminals that operate the relay - 85 comes from the switch and 86 is a ground.

30 and 87 are the high amp supply and load.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniMike

hmm the diagram with my relays have 85 as ground
30- high power feed
85- relay coil ground
86- relay coil feed (trigger wire)
87- high power output (open)
87a - Hugh power output (closed)
'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MiniDave

It will work either way, so no problem......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

Quote from: MiniMike on January 16, 2019, 06:54:10 PM
Ok I've been trying to route the wires for the two new relays. I've been staring at your pictures but not confident in the orientation off your pictures.

Relay #1
Br/ R - 87
2 Br wires - 30
W/ R - 86
Bk- 85 (ground? This is the white pink wire I didn't have that you did)

Relay #2 (not sure about the order of this one)
W -86
Br - 30 or 85?
Br/ Gr - 87
Br/ P 85 or 30?

You have relay #1 correct.  Relay #2 should be as follows:

White - 86 (switched input from ignition switch)
Brown/Pink - 85 out to coil + (switched ignition to coil + feed)
Brown/grey - 87 out to fuel pump (high out to fuel pump via inertia switch if present)
Brown - 30 high input (to feed to fuel pump)


MiniDave

Hang on.....

85 and 86 are both hot? If you're using this to run the fuel pump, you need the white wire from the ign to 85 and 86 needs to be a ground.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

The white from the ignition switch needs to eventually end up at the coil+ side.  So it comes in 86 to trigger the relay to activate the fuel pump and goes out 85 to coil+ and then from the coil- to ground.

The brown in at 30 is always live and the relay when triggered sends that on out 87 on the brown/grey to the inertia switch and on to the fuel pump.

With in-depth thought, it technically leads to very brief "flickers" of the fuel pump as the distributor (points) make/break the coil- to ground connection for firing the high voltage side of the coil.  These basically have no significant effect.

To fully avoid them, join the brown/pink and the white together on 86 and run a black to ground on 85.  The ignition switch will provide power on the white to the relay and via the brown/pink to the coil+.


MiniMike

You guys are awesome! I'll be trying to finish this project up this weekend. Hopefully will be successful haha! 🙌🏽🙌🏽🤣
'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MiniMike

Well I have nothing. Won't crank. Fuel pump doesn't kick on. I know I'm missing something but I literally have no idea what it could be. 🤦🏻‍♂️
'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MPlayle

Is the relay you added for controlling the feed to the fuel pump getting triggered when you turn the ignition on?   (Checking for bad relay.)

If the relay is triggering properly, check the inertia safety switch if still present.  If it got removed, make sure the wires that went to it are jumpered together, otherwise the color scheme of the relay noted earlier is not right.  I seem to recall the wire from the relay to the switch was one color and the wire from the switch to the fuel pump another.

When I did mine, I verified and traced all connections as I went because of variations between different harness configurations: some came wired for a factory alarm system that disabled the fuel system and ignition, some did not.  The color schemes between them had differences that were not always documented well.


MiniMike

The inertia switch was removed previously wires joined and connected to the brake master cap per instructions on mini mania. I believe I have the factory alarm / immobilizer. Should that be connected or can I discard it? I'm afraid that previous owners hacked the wiring up since I got the car in pieces and wiring was all undone.
'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MiniDave

Do you have a test light? If not you should get one - they're very simple to use and can tell you what wires are hot when the ign switch is on.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniMike

I need to get one and go through everything. Had high hopes this would work first try 😑
'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MPlayle

When I got the car I converted to carb, it showed indications of already having the alarm/immobilizer removed.  It still had the fuel inertia switch and I left that in place.

I did not realize yours arrived to you "in pieces" with an already hacked harness.


MiniMike

I mean the harness was in the car but mostly everything was unplugged. The head lights were cut out and a few weird things. So I need to re go back to figure out what is missing I guess
'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MPlayle

Do you have a digital Multi-meter (DMM) you can use for continuity testing?

I used mine and some long jumper wires to test and confirm wires front to rear.  With using a DMM you can confirm the fuel pump power wire from the rear to the front harness connections near the radiator and then from there to your relay.


MiniMike

I don't have one. But trying to round up a few buddies that do to help me out. Heading out of town tomorrow so will have to pick this back up when I return. Will keep you guys updated.
'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MiniMike

Ok so I've re worked it a little bit. And got it to crank. But the fuel pump won't kick on (bench tested it so I know it works). I went chasing some wired and found out that the fuel pump white with purple and a thin brown wire had been put together and attached to my brake master. This has to be why it won't kick on because it's not attached to anything. Right??? Also I sometimes can get it to crank and sometimes not I think it's because the immobilizer?? I have the remote but not sure what to do. Any recommendations on where to wire the fuel pump wire that were put together into??
'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MiniMike

Ok after reading back through (for the millionth time) haha I think I'm going to re trace back to the main harness and see where I messed up. Clearly I missed the inertia switch connections. I think I need to connect that to the br/ gr that goes into the relay. I also need to figure out what's up with the immobolizer and if that's what causing me to sometimes be able to crank it over and sometimes I get nothing. On a positive... my tail lights and hazards work haha (but no brake lights 🤣).
'93 Mini Cooper SPi

MiniMike

Wow now I'm really confused. I found the inertia switch wires and bypassed the inertia switch by joining them. Still don't hear the fuel pump kick on. Then I fiddled around more and found out the car only cranks over when the light switch is turned on?? Digging through the Haynes Manual now. But this is what the wires to the light look like 🤦🏻‍♂️

SOS
'93 Mini Cooper SPi