Rotis

Started by Spitz, November 08, 2015, 07:32:18 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

MiniDave

Ah so........the rotation of the outer sleeve with the weight of the car on it is what caused the post to split? So locking down that piece of tubing from turning, strapping the post like you did - that should do it.

How did you bore the top of the post to match the curvature of the pipe?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Spitz

Yes, had thought of that.  For the moment I've put a long 5/16 bolt, with some good sized washers on it, through the post

Mudhen

Scary pic of the split post!  :-\

I use the bolt method without slippage - I have 2 bolts at 10 and 2, takes both to be bolted down tight to keep it from turning.  I have the same setup at the front and rear.  Once the front is tightened up I go to the rear and tighten that one to make sure it stays.



Is the van shell a lot heavier, though?  I can roll my shell by myself...and I'm 150lbs of nothing...

Love the brake disc...if I had that I'd have trouble not putting a caliper on it - maybe a hydraulic handbrake setup?  There's a project I could get behind - as in, I'd spend all sorts of money and time to never have it work right - and then I'd get behind on all the stuff I should be doing!

Spitz

Quote from: MiniDave on November 12, 2015, 09:23:24 AM


How did you bore the top of the post to match the curvature of the pipe?

I missed that part of your question
I used an appropriate sized hole saw.  I then lined it with a sheet of thin metal to sort of act like a bearing....as in my mind  it was going to spin on that location

Thanks for those pics mudhen

I don't think the van is much heavier at all.  I can spin the van fine by myself also.  In retrospect, maybe I should have put the outer pipe ( on the rear section ) on the underside of the cross piece...this would have lowered the centre of gravity a little more

Spitz

Almost have the beast contained now.

I did the long bolts through the disc on both ends...this will keep the centre pipe from rotating AND coming out of the groove.

I drilled and then welded two nuts up the front on the outer pipe.

I also welded one at the rear mount...but the weld broke TWICE..damn it...need more heat to the pipe...less to the nut.

Managed to do a little metal removal before hearing the rear one let go.  It didn't rotate...but playing on the safe side.

Dmulder

Two questions?  When mounting the body to the rotisserie it looks in some pictures as if the bar goes through the front and rear window and in others as if it goes through the fire wall and then through a hole cut in the back seat. Is this correct?  Is there a reason why the differences?  Also how are you getting the body on the rotisserie itself?  Thanks.
"In like a lamb, Out like a lion."

94touring

It can be done either way but not all have the access hole on the rear seat.  I'm use to going above and my bars are setup that way so I never bother going through the access holes.  It helps to have two people to lift it up, or a hoist.  I put them on by myself several times and it's a chore without at least a hoist.  One side is easy the other is heavy as hell. 

Spitz

I had to stall on mine until spring.
If and when I remove a wing to replace....how does one fit the hood for alignment?
I have in my mind....supporting the front from the floor and pull the pipe out.  As long as supported well, this should work (?)

94touring

Quote from: Spitz on January 07, 2016, 09:13:21 PM
I had to stall on mine until spring.
If and when I remove a wing to replace....how does one fit the hood for alignment?
I have in my mind....supporting the front from the floor and pull the pipe out.  As long as supported well, this should work (?)

One wing really doesn't require the hood to be aligned.  Also doing the front end doesn't require the rotisserie.  So technically the pipe isn't in the way when fitting a new front end. 

Spitz

The van will be staying on the rotis as long as possible.  I'll not be fitting the frames until body is done

Nicholasupton

Quote from: 94touring on January 07, 2016, 09:32:10 PM
Quote from: Spitz on January 07, 2016, 09:13:21 PM
I had to stall on mine until spring.
If and when I remove a wing to replace....how does one fit the hood for alignment?
I have in my mind....supporting the front from the floor and pull the pipe out.  As long as supported well, this should work (?)

One wing really doesn't require the hood to be aligned.  Also doing the front end doesn't require the rotisserie.  So technically the pipe isn't in the way when fitting a new front end.

I will have to disagree with dan on this one, as not all fenders are created equal, especially Heritage stuff, the mk1 LH fits like poo, and the RH one snaps into place. I advise everyone fitting fenders to install the bonnet and the front sub frame supported just under the towers. Can be the difference between perfect gaps, and rubbing.
I am g

Spitz

Why does the sub need to be in place?

94touring

To align your front end panel.  However imo if you're just doing a spot panel replacement, there's no need as nothing is shifting.