Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini

Started by LilDrunkenSmurf, September 21, 2015, 12:22:43 PM

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flipstah

Quote from: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 19, 2017, 08:07:58 AM

Well, they're one offs, and I didn't want to fight over colours. Of note, either gimme your lights, or I'm going to have to order some of my own.

My fog lamp is cracked. You don't want those.

Quote from: MiniDave on June 19, 2017, 10:12:40 AM
I forgot you and Flipstah were neighbors and buds!

He's the reason why I'm here!  17.gif

LilDrunkenSmurf

Thanks to flipstah, we got our new parts in. Looks like the new flares will take a bit or work, definitely not bolt on replacements.

Also, I apparently had an LED flasher, and picked up an OEM one, and now need a new LED flasher. Anyone know where I can source one?

BruceK

Quote from: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 27, 2017, 06:44:51 AM

Also, I apparently had an LED flasher, and picked up an OEM one, and now need a new LED flasher. Anyone know where I can source one?

You should be able to go to your local auto parts store and find one that will work - or get one from Amazon.   Basically, there are two kinds of flashers:  thermal bi-metal (which is what most cars over the last 7 decades came with) that depend on the regular current draw of incandescent bulbs and flash mechanically, and now the newer electronic type (which should work with LEDs) that count their flashes electronically.  So you want an electronic one designed to work with LEDs called a "no-load" flasher. 
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

LilDrunkenSmurf

Quote from: BruceK on June 27, 2017, 07:03:40 AM
Quote from: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 27, 2017, 06:44:51 AM

Also, I apparently had an LED flasher, and picked up an OEM one, and now need a new LED flasher. Anyone know where I can source one?

You should be able to go to your local auto parts store and find one that will work - or get one from Amazon.   Basically, there are two kinds of flashers:  thermal bi-metal (which is what most cars over the last 7 decades came with) that depend on the regular current draw of incandescent bulbs and flash mechanically, and now the newer electronic type (which should work with LEDs) that count their flashes electronically.  So you want an electronic one designed to work with LEDs called a "no-load" flasher. 

Yeah, the problem is finding one in Canada.

I want the CF13JL-02. Amazon Canada has one for ~$30, but I found one at a Canadian light dealer for ~$15, so I'm just looking for a discount code before ordering.

BruceK

Looks like I could make a fortune buying these in the US and smuggling them across the border.  ;D
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

LilDrunkenSmurf

Quote from: BruceK on June 27, 2017, 07:14:45 AM
Looks like I could make a fortune buying these in the US and smuggling them across the border.  ;D

$10 USD via DiodeDynamics. After shipping and conversion, it'd be roughly $30 CAD
$30 CAD via Amazon Canada. Free shipping, no prime.
$15 CAD via ProLightz (A Diode Dynamics dealer in Canada). Free pickup, or $12 to ship it via snail mail from east to west.

So glad I paid 10GBP for a flasher module that would give me a stroke.

LilDrunkenSmurf


flipstah

"Nice fenders! They look awesome!  4.gif"

... Is what I would say if you put them on already.  20.gif

LilDrunkenSmurf


LilDrunkenSmurf

Quick update (thanks to flipstah poking me).

Drove the car all weekend and monday, which was great fun, but it reminds me of a few things:
1) I really want front speakers
2) There's a clunk coming from the front of the car still. Since everything else looks tight, I'm wondering if maybe the engine mounts are shot, or something in the subframe is loose. It's fairly solid when going over large bumps, suck as parking lot speedbumps.
3) I get a weird rattle/coin sound when using >25% throttle. Almost like valve float, but not RPM dependant, just throttle dependant. I'm debating going back to the stock intake from the K&N to see if it makes a difference.

MiniDave

Check the oil in the dashpot on the carb?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

LilDrunkenSmurf

Quote from: MiniDave on August 09, 2017, 10:36:04 AM
Check the oil in the dashpot on the carb?

It's an SPI, no carb.

Also, in regards to the cat heat shields, I tested with a test pipe, and the sound is still there, so the heat shields aren't the issue.

MiniDave

oh, could be pinking, like someone else said......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

LilDrunkenSmurf

Hey guys, after 3 years of sitting on it, I was installing the steering column drop bracket, and while I was under there, I noticed one of the studs on the firewall for the gas pedal has snapped off. Is there an easy way to repair this? Is it safe to drill a hole for a bolt, or use a self tapping screw? I don't have access to a welder.

I can still drive the car as-is, however it causes the gas pedal to be quite loose and wobbly side to side.

MiniDave

Drill it and use a nut and bolt is probably the easiest way......

Love your gif avatar, btw!   ;D 4.gif
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

LilDrunkenSmurf

Quote from: MiniDave on October 03, 2017, 10:36:32 AM
Drill it and use a nut and bolt is probably the easiest way......

Love your gif avatar, btw!   ;D 4.gif

Nothing on the other side that I can potentially damage? It looks like it should clear the booster and such no problem.

And thanks, it's my wife!

Willie_B

Quote from: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 03, 2017, 10:29:40 AM
Hey guys, after 3 years of sitting on it,

That must have been uncomfortable.

If you have room to double nut the bolt that would make it easier to install the pedal. One nut to hold the bolt in the firewall, the second for the pedal.

LilDrunkenSmurf

So I was drilling the hole, hit an open cavity and then something hard. I stopped drilling and just threaded a bolt directly into the body. Seems to be working just fine, so I'll stick with that.

LilDrunkenSmurf

Another thing that's popped up. I'm 90% sure that the "buzzing" sound is an exhaust leak, somewhere in the header itself. I'll look into it when... Who knows when.

But I threw the stock intake back on in order to try and quiet it down, which worked, but I ran into the same issue I had previously, where it wants to flood out on cold starts, especially pulling off the line. It feels like it's getting way more gas than air. Aside from replacing/cleaning the current filter, is there a way to tune the SPi mini's to run leaner? Mechanically, or otherwise?

jeff10049

Have you checked the fuel trap and related hoses that causes most of the rich issues on the spi.


LilDrunkenSmurf

Quote from: jeff10049 on October 20, 2017, 08:05:08 PM
Have you checked the fuel trap and related hoses that causes most of the rich issues on the spi.



I didn't know that. I've now successfully googled where/what the fuel trap is, but what should I be looking for? Clogged vacuum hoses?

MiniDave

#221
A new one isn't too bad, £13.29 or about $23 Canadian......

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/NPC10001.aspx?10&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/fuel trap.aspx|Back to search

So Jeff, what does it do exactly? trap fuel in the vacuum lines? And if so, how does fuel get into the vacuum lines?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

I have some left-over SPI parts that I'll send for cost of postage.

The parts are:
1 - SPI throttle cable
2 - Fuel traps
various vacuum lines and elbows
2 - air filters (1 standard, 1 K&N)

Postage via USPS looks to be about $46 USD.


LilDrunkenSmurf

Checked the trap and all the lines, all seems clear. I will be ordering a new SPi air filter, eventually.

This also happened. Check the before numbers.


Mini on the rack by Jory Irving, on Flickr



Alignment by Jory Irving, on Flickr

The front passenger side (or drivers side for RHD), was dialed back on camber as much as possible. I literally can't get less camber, so the other side was made to match. It also took us 30+ minutes with the toe plate on the rear drivers side. I couldn't get any less toe in than that.

MiniDave

#224
Do you have adjustable camber lower control arms, and if so what style? Some are harder to adjust than others, and some don't adjust very far at all. If you don't have them you can install them and set your camber wherever you want it, same with caster - adjustable tie bars.....that way you can dial it in exactly where you want it. I find this style easiest to set and they're well made and heavy duty.

https://usa.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html

You need these to adjust the caster - I think 4* is a lot, I run 3* on my cars, but it's in spec.

https://usa.minisport.com/c-8g4249-mini-sport-adjustable-front-suspension-tie-rod-pair.html

How does it drive now, any better? What was it doing before?

To get less toe in the back you need to either put shims behind the bracket or use adjustable brackets. I have a new set of Mini Sport rear camber and toe brackets I can sell you if you want them.....I don't need them. They're normally $75, I'd take $50 (US) plus shipping.

I like to run .5* camber, front and rear, a little toe in in the rear and a little toe out in the front
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad