Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini

Started by LilDrunkenSmurf, September 21, 2015, 12:22:43 PM

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LilDrunkenSmurf

Quote from: MPlayle on March 31, 2016, 12:31:21 PM
I will be underneath "Flur" later this afternoon and see what I can determine from its arrangement.  I will also get pictures.  It should be close to what "Reggie" is as they are not that far apart in actual age.



That'd be fantastic, and very much appreciated! Thanks!

MPlayle

Took two pictures of the link on mine:





As can been seen, the single cable (from the handle in the car) is NOT threaded.  The loop from the brakes is sandwiched between the rigid end of the handle cable and the joiner bracket.

It will indeed mean undoing the end of the single cable at the handle and pulling it back under the car and out of the bracket in order to separate the two sections.  The bracket and loop can then drop out with the subframe.


LilDrunkenSmurf

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Mine looks identical. Appreciate it.

LilDrunkenSmurf

Success! The subframe has been dropped, with minimum effort. And a lot of split gas. And brake fluid. I managed to remove one radius arm, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the other off. The snapped captive nut has been rounded by me, so I'll have to get in there with a dremel and go through a ton of discs. Then buy a replacement nut/bolt, and then have someone weld on a captive nut.


Gas tank by Jory Irving, on Flickr


Shock removed by Jory Irving, on Flickr


Gasleak by Jory Irving, on Flickr


Subframe out by Jory Irving, on Flickr


Radius arm removed by Jory Irving, on Flickr


Radius arm removed2 by Jory Irving, on Flickr


Rounded bolt by Jory Irving, on Flickr

Workspace is a little cramped (there's 2 more bikes in front of the Mini)


Full up by Jory Irving, on Flickr


MiniDave

Now you've done it!

You won't be able to put that subframe back in till you've completely disassembled it, powder coated the frame, repainted all the other parts, fixed the loose nut etc, etc ,etc!   ;D

These things do tend to snowball!

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

LilDrunkenSmurf

Hah. I'm not sure about that. New parts came in, so I managed to get the front left all put back together, including the new brake line. I went to go put some grease into the balljoints, but someone stole the flex line from my grease gun while it was on the shelf at the store, and I didn't notice. Next up is the other front wheel. It took a while getting those offset bushes lined up, but it should be worth it.

Also got the new bracket for the alternator. I just need some spacers for the top, and the compressor can come out.

As for the subframe, I'm just planning on using a drill-wire brush attachment, doing a quick primer and paint, and rebuilding it. I'll need to use a shop to ream the new bushes from the trailing arm rebuild kit, but otherwise, I can't see it taking overly long to put back together.

MiniDave

Remember not to tighten those lower control arm bushing shafts till it's down on the wheels and settled.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

LilDrunkenSmurf

Quote from: MiniDave on April 06, 2016, 08:28:55 AM
Remember not to tighten those lower control arm bushing shafts till it's down on the wheels and settled.

*quietly loosens nut*

LilDrunkenSmurf

Backed off the LCA bolts as per Minidave.

Got the drivers side (right hand) done today. I couldn't do the brake line, as it's not the same as the other side, on top of the frame it's a Y-fitting, that I can't seem to get to. Since I removed the A/C fan, I could dremel out part of the wing to get access to it, but without any POR15 or anything to rust proof the cut, I'm loathe to do it. I'd also rather know what the Y-fitting is for.

Also, I really really hope I'm doing the shims in the balljoint properly. I'm mostly doing it by feel (shove a few shims in, tighten it down, see if it's too loose/tight, remove, repeat as necessary).

It's hilarious how after spending 2-3 nights working on the other side, I managed to do both balljoints, the LCA, and the shock in under 2 hours. I have spare knuckles, but I don't want to touch that part of the suspension yet.

I also noticed that on the right hand side (drivers) I'll need to replace the tie rod end soon, as it's torn, and I'll need to replace the gator on the left hand side of the steering rack, as it's torn as well. Next order I suppose.

I haven't moved to the rear subframe again yet, since I'm deciding whether I should try a nut-cracker or just dremel the bolt off, and find a replacement nut. Does anyone happen to know the threading of the bolt?

94touring


LilDrunkenSmurf

Is that the thread pitch? Sorry, I'm used to imperial (ex: M8x1.25)

94touring

Yep.  That's what they'll say. 

LilDrunkenSmurf


MiniDave

On the ball joint shims, the official spec is if you can move it with a bare hand it's too loose, if you can just move it with a gloved hand, it's just right.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

If the 'Y' fitting is flat on the right side of the subframe where the flex line from the right brake is, then one branch of the 'Y' fitting is the feed in from the master cylinder, the 'base' of the 'Y' is the drop out to the right hand front brake, the out on the remaining branch is the feed across the front subframe to the left hand front brake.

Does it look similar to this:
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Brakes/Front/21A654.aspx?0401&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Brakes/Front.aspx|Back%20to%20shop

(Note: diagrams showing where the part is used are shown lower down that same page.)


LilDrunkenSmurf

Quote from: MPlayle on April 06, 2016, 09:43:17 PM
If the 'Y' fitting is flat on the right side of the subframe where the flex line from the right brake is, then one branch of the 'Y' fitting is the feed in from the master cylinder, the 'base' of the 'Y' is the drop out to the right hand front brake, the out on the remaining branch is the feed across the front subframe to the left hand front brake.

Does it look similar to this:
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Brakes/Front/21A654.aspx?0401&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Brakes/Front.aspx|Back%20to%20shop

(Note: diagrams showing where the part is used are shown lower down that same page.)



That's the exact one! I'm just having a hell of a time getting decent access to it.

LilDrunkenSmurf


LilDrunkenSmurf

Sometimes. I hate this car. How the hell do you take the old radius arm bearing and copper bush out? How do I ream the new copper bush? The lack of instructions drives me nuts.

LilDrunkenSmurf

Quote from: MPlayle on March 23, 2016, 07:58:50 AM
I don't know about the questions for the pulley alignment in your other thread.  I can answer the bracket question here.

The odd 'L' shaped bracket holds the back of the alternator.  The two bolt holes on the same side are where the bracket mounts to the motor with the single hole pointing up for the back of the alternator.  The top front of the alternator is held by the "ear" of the water pump.

The two top mounts of the alternator make the pivot axis for tightening the belt.

The curved/slotted piece is the slide mount for the lower front of the alternator.  That piece is mounted to the engine by the single hole.  It usually is mounted to curve up and the alternator bolt slides in the slot.

Without the a/c, the alternator sits a bit lower behind the grill.  There are also usually some spacers with the top mounts to move the alternator towards the radiator.  See the attached picture from one of my past Minis.  I labeled the 'L' bracket  position and the spacers.



So I finally decided to pull the compressor, and I ran into some issues. I have this huge black piece that's bolted to the engine, that includes the belt tensioner and it stopping the alternator from lining up. Do I need to remove this thing?


2016-06-27 20.20.05 by Jory Irving, on Flickr


2016-06-27 20.22.26 by Jory Irving, on Flickr


2016-06-27 20.22.32 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

MPlayle

If you are removing the a/c system completely, that black brace under the rear mount for the alternator also gets removed.  The rear mount for the alternator then bolts back into that same position and should then line up properly.

Save the black brace as it is hard to come by and anyone adding a/c to their Mini will need it.


LilDrunkenSmurf

So I did that, and it hangs much better, but it looks like my pulley is either way too long, or too short, depending which way I hang it.


2016-06-28 19.46.58 by Jory Irving, on Flickr


2016-06-28 19.47.56 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

LilDrunkenSmurf


MiniDave

I agree you need a different pulley.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring


jeff10049

mounted like the first pic can you cut some off the back of that pully shank and slide it back? then just use the cut off piece under the nut as a spacer?