Author Topic: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini  (Read 46768 times)

Offline MPlayle

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #25 on: October 21, 2015, 09:15:51 PM »
My second Mini was actually a 1991 German spec SPI.  It had the cross-over bar for the "integrated" servo.  The brake master/servo was over the clutch cover, but the clutch master was near the radiator (standard LHD location).

For a LHD manual transmission car, left hand pedal box in Richard's picture would also include the clutch pedal that would connect to the master directly above it.  The brake pedal would activate the cross-over bar similar to what Richard manufactured.


Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #26 on: October 27, 2015, 09:46:41 PM »
Just in case anyone is looking in the future... It's a 51R. The battery is a group 51R

Offline Nicholasupton

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #27 on: October 28, 2015, 04:05:03 PM »
Here is a factory pedal box for post 84 LHD minis. Should give you a good idea of what needs to happen for the LHD switch, and keep youe existing master cylinders, only addition part needed is a new clutch hardline.
http://www.7ent.com/products/lhd-pedal-conversion-assembly-1984-on-sevu9001.html

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #28 on: February 22, 2016, 12:17:20 PM »
Going to bump this. Not many updates since Oct. I removed the wing mirrors, fixed most of the interior rattles, and pulled the broken ashtray out and cleaned out most of the glue holding it in. I put the car up for sale, and with a few small nibbles, haven't sold it. I recently started driving it again with some 145/80/12 tires, that rub like crazy, but I fell in love with the car again. I'm debating putting in a semi-large order once I move here in 2 weeks, but need a few small pieces of advice.

Order will be placed at minispares.com. With the CAD doing so abysmally compared to the USD, it's much cheaper and easier for me to order from the UK. I've reached out to 2 places locally in Canada, but one didn't give me a full quote and the other never got back to me. I'd love to buy some 13" wheels and tires, but it's not in the budget, so I'm looking at getting some proper sized 12" tires (165/60R12).

The console shroud piece around the steering column is touching the ignition lock, so at certain RPM it buzzes quite badly. If I shove one of the keys in there, it's fine, but I can't seem to get it fully removed to put anything in there to stop it. It wouldn't unclip the 2 pieces at the bottom of the shroud after I removed the screws from both sides. Any advice?

I'm also looking at fitting door mirrors, as I didn't like the style of the wing mirrors, and would rather the function of door mirrors. I've put some fitting plates, but can someone let me know if I need anything else?

I'm also planning on replacing the chrome trim on both sides of the car, as well as replacing all the seals for all the windows except the door windows. Can someone let me know if I'm missing anything for the rear piece?

I also have a squealing serpentine belt, but I'm not sure which one I need, as there's 2 (due to the A/C pulley doubling as an extender). I'd ideally like to delete the A/C, but I'm not sure what belt would be required, or if it's just that simple. I can replace both at once, but I can't figure out which ones I need.

This is roughly what I'm looking at:
1x CRT10004 - MIRROR SUCTION PAD
2x 342001 - FRONT KAYABA GAS UPGRADE SHOCK ABSORBER
2x 342002 - REAR KAYABA GAS UPGRADE SHOCK ABSORBER
1x YGA4694 - ASHTRAY AS PER CZH625
2x GZF105A - BODY SEAM PLASTIC SIDE TRIM CHROME DE-LUXE FLUTED TYPE
2x EAM7724 - SEAL FOR REAR OPENING QUARTER LIGHT MK3
1x C-AJJ3360 - LOWER ARMS, ON CAR ADJUSTABLE
1x M90999 - DOOR FITTING KIT R/H PLATE TO FIT GAM215A/107 80 ON
1x M90997 - DOOR FITTING KIT L/H GAM216/108 TO 80-ON
1x GAM216A - DOOR MIRROR L/H STAINLESS STEEL
1x GAM215A - DOOR MIRROR R/H STAINLESS STEEL
2x GSJ166MS - BALL JOINT KIT,MINI-GENUINE MINI SPARES PART
1x BG5101MS - STEERING COLUMN DROP BRACKET PRE 1996 MODELS ONLY
1x JRC2674 - REAR SCREEN RUBBER FITS ALL MINIS
1x CCB10011MS - WINDSCREEN SEAL, LATER WIDER TYPE 1991-2000
1x 660330 - SUSPENSION CONE COMPRESSOR WITH DUAL THREAD TOOL (This is for down the road, just in case)
2x 37H8052 - WINDSCREEN FILLET BLACK STRIP
1x MS73EVO - CAMBER AND CASTOR REAR TRACK ADJUSTMENT BRACKETS
4x TYRE04 - TYRE FALKEN 165/60/12 TYPE ZE914

Without the belts, it works out to 518.78 GBP, with a shipping quote of 103.22GBP, which works out to roughly 622GBP or $1200 Canadian pesos (or $880 USD)

Offline MiniDave

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #29 on: February 22, 2016, 01:33:21 PM »
Hope the suction cup deally-bobber works better for you than it did for me - I paid $10 US ( for a freaking suction cup?!?!?!) for one of those from a US supplier and it came off the windshield every time I accelerated in first gear or hit a bump in the road - I wound up using some clear silicone to stick it permanently to the windshield.

Those lower arms are kinda fiddly to adjust, I prefer this kind - I think they're heavier built but not really any heavier than those....I've used both on various cars. On one car that had them I had to use a crow foot to get to the lock nut and tighten it properly.

http://usa.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html



BTW, those rear plates are for adjusting the camber and toe, and while the caster is affected when you change the other two, there is no specific adjustment for that on the rear, just FYI.

There are 3 screws that hold the two halves of the shroud together not 2, one on each side and one down at the bottom - you've missed one.

If you take the v-belt to your local auto parts store, they can probably match it up for length.
« Last Edit: February 22, 2016, 01:35:57 PM by MiniDave »
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #30 on: February 22, 2016, 01:53:30 PM »
The front camber adjustment and rear plates were recommendations from a local owner who autocrosses his '92 Rover that was converted to LHD. He swapped to smaller discs to run 10" wheels however.

I can't find those on minispares. Trying to price out a similar cart on minisports, but the site is super slow right now.

Offline MiniDave

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #31 on: February 22, 2016, 01:54:57 PM »
Their site is always really slow since they "improved" it......
« Last Edit: February 22, 2016, 02:22:10 PM by MiniDave »
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline Spitz

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #32 on: February 22, 2016, 04:21:33 PM »
I would agree with you and ditch the AC.

I have an 89 Jap MINI with basically the same dash set-up.  That fan motor in the lower left footwell is indeed huge.
Although it still gets pretty hot here in the summer ( can reach 35 ) I've never found the need for the AC.....plus mine was a 998 with Auto trans., so not a lot of power to spare running it.

I've since swapped to manual gearbox and 1130 engine.

My opinion is that swapping to LHD would be a huge benefit.  Safety as well as ease of driving.  The opinion of " a real MINI is RHD " is stupid.  There was probably 50% of each made.

The only reason I've not switched mine to LHD is cost....mostly the dash.  If I had a dash, I'd sacrifice the power brakes and move stuff over.

As for the steering rack....I did swap out racks on my Jap car.  The original was worn and I replaced it with a good used one.  The swap-out was actually easier than I thought.  You do not need to remove the subframe/power unit.

As I recall, I removed the bolts holding the rear mounts, removed dog bone from head attachment point, released tower bolts ( don't recall if completely removed or just let the frame drop the required amount.
There needs to be a board spanning under the car just behind the rear mounts ( or a jack either side ) to left the body the required amount.
After releasing the steering rod ends, removing the U-bolts, removing pinch bolt at bottom of column...The rack can be wiggled out
I don't recall if I removed the carb...but it's something to keep an eye on while dropping ( if you have a carb that is )

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #33 on: February 22, 2016, 07:17:20 PM »
How did you deal with removing the A/C pulley? I'm not sure how to get the crank pulley/fan belt/etc all lined up. Do I need to buy anything new to make it work?

Offline Spitz

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #34 on: February 23, 2016, 08:24:29 AM »
I honestly do not recall the configuration,  if the two belts are driven by the crank, or if the water pump drives the AC...or if belt is from Alt to AC
Either way, after getting rid of the AC you may just have to trial and error fit the right length belt to drive Alt and water pump.
So the only "new" thing needed may be the belt.
You will appreciate the room you aquire.
Behind the little rad on the right side of engine bay, you'll then find the metal car ID tag.

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #35 on: February 23, 2016, 08:44:07 AM »
Well, there's 2 belts, with the A/C being a dual pulley. From what I'm reading online, I'll need a new alt bracket to line it up with the crank pulley and fan belt, but I have no idea which bracket.

Offline Spitz

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #36 on: February 23, 2016, 08:58:00 AM »
Ah...it's coming back to me now....one thing I forgot to mention;

What I did was actually replace the engine with an A series when I went from auto to manual.  The bracket for the alt is different I believe between the A and A+.....or is it that the casting of the block positions the bracket differently.
Anyway...sorry, forgot to mention that bit...lol

Offline MPlayle

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #37 on: February 23, 2016, 09:31:43 AM »
With the A/C in place, a special alternator bracket arrangement is used.  A lower bracket sets the A/C compressor lower than the standard alternator position and an upper bracket puts the alternator in a higher than normal position.  These special brackets use the standard mounting points.

When removing the A/C system, the special brackets are also removed and the normal alternator bracket is put in their place.

This link shows the different ones at 7Ent:

http://www.7ent.com/search.php?search_query=alternator&x=0&y=0

The one designated FOR084 appears to provide some adjustment.

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #38 on: March 16, 2016, 07:55:58 AM »
Placed my large order. Tacked on the bracket and a belt. Ideally it's the right one, but if not... -shrug-

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #39 on: March 19, 2016, 11:18:08 AM »

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #40 on: March 21, 2016, 02:15:56 PM »
Has anyone done the A/C delete before? I ordered a new bracket/belt, but I want to start tearing things out, like the a/c rad, lines, and blower motor and such.

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #41 on: March 23, 2016, 08:44:37 AM »

Parts! by Jory Irving, on Flickr


Mini Catalog by Jory Irving, on Flickr


RIP engine bay by Jory Irving, on Flickr


RIP interior by Jory Irving, on Flickr


Recaro by Jory Irving, on Flickr


U WOT M8 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #42 on: March 23, 2016, 08:50:25 AM »
So I bought a new alt bracket and belt, to try and delete the A/C system, however the alternator is a dual bolt setup.

So I'm not sure how a bracket like this:



Bolts to an alternator like this:




IMG_1883.jpg by Jory Irving, on Flickr

Or did I buy the bracket that just holds the bottom of the alternator, but still have no way of lining up the pulley with the crank pulley/waterpump?
« Last Edit: March 23, 2016, 08:52:45 AM by LilDrunkenSmurf »

Offline MPlayle

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #43 on: March 23, 2016, 09:58:50 AM »
I don't know about the questions for the pulley alignment in your other thread.  I can answer the bracket question here.

The odd 'L' shaped bracket holds the back of the alternator.  The two bolt holes on the same side are where the bracket mounts to the motor with the single hole pointing up for the back of the alternator.  The top front of the alternator is held by the "ear" of the water pump.

The two top mounts of the alternator make the pivot axis for tightening the belt.

The curved/slotted piece is the slide mount for the lower front of the alternator.  That piece is mounted to the engine by the single hole.  It usually is mounted to curve up and the alternator bolt slides in the slot.

Without the a/c, the alternator sits a bit lower behind the grill.  There are also usually some spacers with the top mounts to move the alternator towards the radiator.  See the attached picture from one of my past Minis.  I labeled the 'L' bracket  position and the spacers.


Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #44 on: March 23, 2016, 10:18:06 AM »
So essentially, I bought 1/3 of what I need. I need the curved bracket for the bottom of the alternator, and the spacers for the top of it? That'll move the alternator/pulley closer to the radiator.

Offline MPlayle

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #45 on: March 23, 2016, 10:46:12 AM »
I am not familiar enough with the a/c setup to know for sure, but I would think there already is an equivalent to the curved piece for adjusting the current alternator belt.

The spacers are just washers and spacing tubes, often available at a local hardware store.  (Although, you may need to trim to fit for the amount of spacing your installation needs.)

Examples of spacers at Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/s/spacer?NCNI-5

I added some notations to your picture of the alternator and brackets.  There will be an equivalent to the curved piece already present on the lower front mount.  You "should" be able to reuse that in place of the curved piece shown.

« Last Edit: March 23, 2016, 10:55:39 AM by MPlayle »

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #46 on: March 23, 2016, 10:48:49 AM »
I'm pretty sure the curved piece is currently built into the compressor, so I'll likely need to replace it, and I'll probably pick this up at the same time:

http://minispares.com//product/classic/12G289.aspx

And yeah, I'll fab up the spacers, but I won't order anything until I pull the compressor off to verify if I need it or not.

Offline Willie_B

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Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #47 on: March 23, 2016, 11:43:08 AM »
A recent Classic Motorsports magazine showed where they used a turn buckle and a couple of heim joints for the lower adjustable mount. Then you just turn the turn buckle to slowly tighten the belt and it all stays put when you tighten all the bolts.

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #48 on: March 26, 2016, 06:45:56 PM »
Starts working on the car today, after getting the recaro's in. Need to pick up a 1-1/2" socket for the balljoints, as well as a balljoint puller. Trip to princess auto tomorrow.


Seats in! by Jory Irving, on Flickr


Mini parts by Jory Irving, on Flickr


Mini shocks by Jory Irving, on Flickr


Mini balljoint by Jory Irving, on Flickr

Offline LilDrunkenSmurf

Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
« Reply #49 on: March 27, 2016, 11:16:37 AM »
Looking at the rear shocks, and the right hand side looks pretty easy to replace, but the left side looks like I need to pull the gas tank. How hard is that to do? Can I leave it all hooked up and just move it out of the way, or do I need to do a full disconnect and pull the tank? Managed to get the first camber/toe plate installed last night, after much weeping and gnashing of teeth.