Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Anyone know where I can get a different one? I'd have to cut + re-weld this one, and I'm worried about it spinning at 5000rpm

[MiniDave]

What Jeff said /\

[John Gervais]

MiniSpares has 4 different alternator pulleys, 3 of which are in stock.

http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/12A34.aspx?07&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/pulley.aspx|Back%20to%20search

http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Alternators/C-AEA535.aspx?0902&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Electrics/Alternators.aspx|Back%20to%20shop

http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/12A1772.aspx?07&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/pulley.aspx|Back%20to%20search

http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/12G2102.aspx?07&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/pulley.aspx|Back%20to%20search

[MiniDave]

Or here in the US.....

http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?Page=111

or here....  http://www.minimania.com/part/12G1054/Austin-Mini-Alternator-Pulley

Same thing here for $50 less....  http://www.7ent.com/products/generator-pulley-2-75-12g1054.html

[MPlayle]

Sorry, I got tied up with ongoing family medical issues and just got back to this thread.

As others have stated, a different pulley will be needed.  You need the one without the long shaft spacer.  You might check out whether the pulley you have can be milled to shorten the spacer portion and still secure in place properly.

[jeff10049]

Anyone know where I can get a different one? I'd have to cut + re-weld this one, and I'm worried about it spinning at 5000rpm

Why weld? just cut off the back spacer part amount needed and move it to the front side the nut will clamp it all down. don't really even need a key in it if it affects that.
5k+ is no problem it wont hurt a thing.  Just make sure how ever you cut it its reasonably square or face it in lathe after, or file, or belt sand. Could of had er done in the time I typed this.

I will look at a 1275 I have tomorrow and see if it has what you need if you don't want to cut yours (just do it) I'll send it for cost of shipping cant remember if it has the alt on it right now.

Jeff

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Will post pics shortly.

15mm diameter shaft, no keyhole, 11mm belt, 61mm diameter pulley.

Very deep.


2016-07-03 18.30.33 by Jory Irving, on Flickr


2016-07-03 18.30.41 by Jory Irving, on Flickr


2016-07-03 18.30.36 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

Not sure which pulley would be comparable, as they all seem to be much larger.

I'm leaning more towards this one:
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/12A34.aspx?07&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/pulley.aspx|Back%20to%20search

[MPlayle]

You won't be able to shorten the "shank" of that one.  For the replacement, carefully measure the shaft of the alternator as the page you linked indicates two different shaft sizes (15mm and 18mm).  Otherwise, the one you linked should work.

[jeff10049]

yep I see now, I do have one would you like it? I need to pull it and check shaft size.

Jeff

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

So first this happened


2016-07-01 16.32.57 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

Then this happened


2016-07-02 12.50.51 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

And now we're here:


2016-07-03 16.10.02 by Jory Irving, on Flickr

Just need to reinstall the e-brake line and it's ready to go back into the car. Unfortunately, (or fortunately due to the falling GBP), I had to order some extra items. I needed new cotter pins, and I lost one of the clevis pins for one of the ebrake mounts. I also opted to get proper sized knuckles for the rear, since the new ones I was going to use have a built in spacer.

I also ordered a new alternator pulley, new tie rod ends, new steering rack gators, and upper arm repair kit for the fronts, 2x gearbox mounts), and a new rad cap. Once they arrive, I can finish the ebrake line on the subframe, and hoist it back into the car. Ideally this resolves my alternator issue as well, and that can get put back together as well.

Not sure if I'll tackle rebuilding the fronts, since they're already all together from installing the camber arms, but we'll see. I'm 50/50, and I do want to replace the steering gators and tie rod ends for sure, as they're toast.

[MiniDave]

What's that muffler off of, the one next to the mower in the last pic, or is that just a garbage can?   ;D

Just go ahead and do the fronts while you're at it, then it's all done and you can drive it with a fair amount of confidence.

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

What's that muffler off of, the one next to the mower in the last pic, or is that just a garbage can?   ;D

Just go ahead and do the fronts while you're at it, then it's all done and you can drive it with a fair amount of confidence.

Stock s2000 AP2 exhaust. I kept it around after I installed an aftermarket one.

I'm leaning more towards rebuilding the upper arms, just because all the seals are as destroyed as the rears were. I'm just hoping it's not a huge pain. I almost bit off more than I could chew with the rears, so I'm slightly worried about the fronts.

[MiniDave]

The only thing tough about those uppers is if you have to change the little needle bearings, you'll have to make a tool to drive them out. I just took a big bolt and rounded one side of the head to match the ID of the arm, then you  can knock them out, going back in is easy. To get the old ones out you have to go over a step inside the arm - you can't just use a normal drift, hence the tool.

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

So now I'm far less confident I can do it. Damnit, this is exactly why I had a shop rebuild the radius arms for me. What's the tool to pull the needle bearings?

[MiniDave]

I took a 1/2" bolt 6" long, ground one side of the bolt head to a curve on my bench grinder, then used it to drive out the needle bearing/race. It wasn't that hard.......

the race looks like this, and you have to use the bolt head to catch the edge of the race and knock it out.....

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Have a picture of what the bolt looks like post-grinding? I've looked up a few methods of doing it, and of my my favorites so far is taking a M10 bolt, and welding it to the race, then using a 30mm socket, some washers and a nut to pull it out slowly. I'll have to abuse a friendship to make it happen, but that's my easiest method right now due to lack of tools (like a bench grinder).

[MiniDave]

Do you have a bench vise?

Where are you and I'll mail you the bolt I used, how's that?

[John Gervais]

I didn't want to damage the upper arm bores, so I 'mushroomed' the end of a brass drift, filed it somewhat 'neat' and used that to drive the needle bearings from the upper arms.

[MiniDave]

Same concept.....I didn't find any damage after I tapped mine out. However, brass is a good idea, can't damage the bores even if you get carried away with the hammering!

I just used what I had lying about.....I have two different bolts, between doing the left and right sides I managed to misplace my special drift and had to make another one!  8.gif ;D

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Managed to finally install the last brake line on the RH side. Also pulled the upper arms on both sides, as well as the tie-rod ends. I'll have to remove the gators, but I don't want to do that until the new ones arrive.

Also, decided what to do with the wheels. I was originally just going to clean them up and re-clear them, but I'm going to get them powdercoated a brand new colour.

[MiniDave]

As long as the shafts don't look like this you can probably just clean those bearings up and reuse them.....but if they look like this you need to replace the bearings and the shafts......if you need my custom "tools", just send me a PM with your address and I'll put them in the mail to you.

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

I already ordered the rebuild kits. I might as well use them at this point.

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Broke a bit on the tank today.

WLV10007 which is NLA.

#27

http://minispares.com/catalogues/classic/Classic~Mechanical~Parts~Manual/Fuel~~Exhaust/Fuel~Tanks~and~Pumps.aspx?2~18~176

Anyone know where I can get a replacement, or how to delete or bypass?

[MiniDave]

I think I have one - if so I'll sell it for a reasonable amount.....

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

What is it? Can I substitute or bypass it somehow?