Front end Paint work on my Car

Started by SomethingNew71, September 16, 2015, 01:08:34 PM

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SomethingNew71

Hey Mini peeps!

So I need some feedback and maybe some recommendations on getting some repair paintwork done.  I have a 1960 Morris Mini and I got it bare shell painted about 3-4 years ago.  The paint job was "inexpensive" and I got what I paid for.  The front end of the car clearly was not prepped correctly and has taken a beating.  Some seams are already starting to bubble as well.  I drive the car near every day so I expect a chip or two here and there but I don't feel like the whole front end should be flaking.  The back end of the car and sides are holding up really nicely aside from some "owner inflicted" damage when I was being careless.  So what I am asking is even though the back of the car is in great shape, should I repaint the whole thing again or get a good paint shop to do the repairs on the areas that are needing the love.  See attached images for reference.


94touring

They gave you a maco paint job I see.  The problem is that whatever you do paint needs stripped down to the primer and/or metal.  Then a epoxy sealer primer, 400-800 grit sanding, then the base coat /clear coat.  If the rest of the car is holding up and looks good no need to redo it necessarily. The problem you have is adhesion and anything in the path of wind and debri.  The rest of the car if its dull you could get away with just color sanding and buffing or sanding then clearing, followed by the color sanding and buff. 

MiniDave

The prep work under that paint is terrible, and it's the prep that makes the paint job. There are pits, bumps and sanding marks all over.....

I think you need to take all the blue off at least on the front of the car and get down to some good paint that's stuck down tight, then follow Dan's instructions.

Nothing wrong with Maaco if you do the proper paint prep work, their paint will stick down as well as anyone's under the right prep, but it probably won't look good as long as a job done with better materials.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

You can see they simply painted on top of the black primer that the panels come coated in.  I bet they didn't even scuff it where it's peeling. 

MiniDave

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

jedduh01

#5
Yep = I helped New71 re assemble the car after paint. Exactly as expressed it was "shoddy " paint prep all way around.  Long story - but glad i met New 71 thru all this = were buds!

He got a great metal work install on the floor panels - and a whole new nose... but the paint was rushed . I believe that flaking started about 6 Months after on the road... Sad but kinda we know it = you get whatcha pay for.  All this body work was done by another 3rd party person... not NEW71 or Myself

I kinda got the same on my moke - the paint is sticking- and solid= but just not SMOOTH_ and has imperfections because i TOO wanted to drive ASAP .
The flaws are present but hey - its my moke i can bang it up... mabye one day = proper re do = English green.... i mean = its nothing to take apart!

Trying now to convince SN71 to plastidip the nose!!  Either Black or Blue to ' preserve whats there"   until the plastidip pulls off then you can repair with more paint!

its more fun to drive than paint!   

Air2air

So are you guys saying that for those of us who don't want to spray we could just do the prep and take it in to a Maaco for example?

jedduh01

#7
MAACO will glady spray anything any color you want ... depends on the shop - and your' Expectations .. i think if you go in saying = I WANT NICE WORK = you for sure will pay more

but if you want color on a car = they will shoot that too = with OVERSPRAY and other issues.

I have found bodyshops DO NOT really like - pre prepped with primer and filler cars... the simple fact as they dont know the chemicals or items used in that work= so if they slick it down= spray color and down the road it flakes off= whos fault "???  they need or want to prep it completely so they can ensure the base is proper= the primer is proper and sealed. and the paint will act nicely with its new base.

I see a second side  if you can do the "prep work"  primer + Filler + smoothing == you can do color too

I myself had my 94 nose resprayed + blended properly .. I brought it to the shop " dude i knew" for what i wanted a quick job... He quoted a higher number than i wanted to pay - but fine ... where else was this going to get done...   I had some filler + primer on it  thinking it needed SMALL fixing then color..
  He doesnt do shoddy work - wants the best to come out.. He stripped My Pre work = Sandblasted found rust spots = and Completely re did the nose for exaclty what he quoted... I completely got what i paid for and it turned out GreAT.

A classic solid case of = you get what you pay for. 

Body guy  said = youll get nice work - you will get more money for it =  Sold for every penny + sold in 6 days = Completely worth it.



SomethingNew71

Awesome info from all replies.  I really appreciate the feedback on this.  So I took little advice from everyone on here.  For now I have prepped the body for paint myself. (wet sanded, washed, wet sanded, washed, cleaned really good with a degreaser, wet sanded, and washed one more time.  4.gif)  From there I am in the process of applying multiple coats of the blaze blue plasti-dip.  I decided to go this route for now just to protect the paint and prevent any further rusting/peeling.  I am then going to apply multiple layers of the plasti-dip glossifier. This way I can wait a little while before dropping big bucks on a full paint repair job.  This also affords me the ability to peel it off later on in the event I dont like it or I mortally ruined the car!  :-[

I would be lying if I said I wasn't completely terrified I have messed up the car but I know anything can be fixed.  Below is the current layer state of the car.  KEEP IN MIND: I am no where close to finished with the whole job. 


SomethingNew71

Hi everyone!  So quick update.  I finished dipping the car but the color was just too different for me.  Because of this I am going to bring the bumper back down to bare metal and do a proper paint job myself.  I am going to work incredibly hard to make sure the surface is prepped properly like everyone suggested.  Also if you are un-sure of your quality of paint I would recommend REALLY thinking about the plasti-dip before putting it on.  It peeled off super easy after using 5 coats of the dip but it also pulled off paint and clearcoat when it came off. 

94touring


SomethingNew71

Quote from: 94touring on September 21, 2015, 05:02:44 PM
Wire wheel time.   20.gif

How about a power sander with 60 grit?  4.gif

Although it might be a good excuse to get an angle grinder.....

94touring

For the front end panel I'd be careful using an angle grinder.  Reason being is it will do a lot of gouging and you'll spend a lot of time filling and sanding during prep.  All the curves and nooks and crannies on the front end makes it pretty tedious.  Paint stripper is an option but messy and usually requires extra stripping anyways.  You have your work cut out! 

MtyMous

Chemical stripper made my job a living hell on some panels. It eats paint like a champ, but body filler and other things don't give way as easily. And then you have goopy sections that are filled with chemical stripper and you have to wait for it to completely dry (almost never dries completely) before you can remove it mechanically. This is just my experience stripping the whole car to bare metal. I'd go with a wire wheel or something similar that can adjust to the contours of the front end.

SomethingNew71

Alrighty folks I have officially stripped the paint and applied a few coats of primer. The stripping job I used chemical stripper and it went ok. The only reason I chose that is that I knew 100% I had no filler in there. I see what you mean about it being super goopy but overall it took my stripping job down dramatically. I forgot to take a picture when it was bare metal but here is where I'm at now. Guide coat goes on tomorrow and I will be smoothing everything out really nicely. Under the bumper is going to get a coat of truck bed liner for extra durability and that will remain back since it's not really visible.

94touring


SomethingNew71

Alrighty so the car is completely sanded and prepped and OF COURSE its raining here for the next 3-4 days. So I definitely will have to wait to paint until it dries up here. :( 

However my paint has arrived from www.66autocolor.com and I am feeling pretty good about the quality of paint.  I purchased the 2K single stage which combines the hardner, clear coat, and paint all together.  Means only one stage on the car and no need for a separate clear coat.  I was going to buy from www.automotivetouchup.com but they don't mix my color anymore!!!  Oh well I think it ended up better with 66 Auto Color.  They seem like they have a better product. 

Check out the crazy spray can!! Bonus: I also got a super cool rolly cart so my back doesn't hurt anymore.