Then I broke down (74 mini mild refurb)

Started by 94touring, May 26, 2015, 11:33:03 PM

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joakwin

Quote from: 94touring on March 09, 2018, 08:48:54 AM
A stock bare rear arm comes in around 12lbs.  The kads are about 6.5lbs.  The whole assembly of kad vs stock rear with spaced drums was about 27.5lbs lighter total for both sides.  Then the shocks I picked out are 1.25lbs lighter each than the gaz I'd normally use.  Wheel tire combo I think will be somewhere between 3 and 5lbs lighter each vs my standard 10x6 with 008s mounted.  The rear subframe is noticeably lighter when lugging it around. I could sling it up on the bench with relative ease. The front subframe is still a beast but I did shave several pounds each side with the alloy drive flanges and 4 pots.

Edit: looking over my math.  Stock rears are about 27.5lbs each fully built with spaced drums.  The kad setup is almost exactly half the weight.

I guess since I know how much my arms and hubs weigh, I could probably weigh the rotor and caliper and add those up

seems like mine are going to be lighter then stock even with me making them wider and adding the extra metal to them

before I go my rear set up, I almost went with the twincam rear billet arms

https://www.specialist-components.co.uk/index.php/shop/classic-mini-performance-parts/classic-mini-suspension-components/billet-alloy-radius-arms.html
D16z6 Automatic, 4 wheel disc brakes, deseamed shell

94touring

#251
So long as you keep it under 27.5lbs each side you're ahead of stock weight. 

I had considered the specialist component rear arms but I didn't want to run coilovers.  Love those uppers on the front, but they're way overpriced on those unfortunately.

joakwin

Quote from: 94touring on March 09, 2018, 09:24:51 AM
So long as you keep it under 27.5lbs each side you're ahead of stock weight. 

I had considered the specialist component rear arms but I didn't want to run coilovers.  Love those uppers on the front, but they're way overpriced on those unfortunately.

yeah those upper arms are sexy but way to pricey

D16z6 Automatic, 4 wheel disc brakes, deseamed shell

94touring


MiniDave

Hey, more holes means less weight, right?   ;D
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

Well definetly lots of extra layers of metal removed that are worth something in the weight reduction area.  This side was pretty bad.

MiniGene

Holy Moley!  Does discovering stuff like that even phase you anymore?

94touring

Lol not really. Just finishing up welding the pan in.

94touring

Almost done with this side.  Took awhile to undo double layers.   

94touring

#259
Last big parts order from minispares was placed.  Fiberglass boot and bonnet on the way along with a ton of small things.  Also will have a new headerliner and all the parts to finish the door conversion.  I think I've decided on going with por-15 to do the underside of the car.  I'll likely put in on the rotissier and give the underside a good cleaning along with the chemical prep.  Right now it's a mix of undercoat, white paint, blue paint, surface rust, and oil. 

94touring

All the metal work is done on the body. Have one alloy door done. Still tweaking custom brackets for the mirrors.  Can't wait to weigh the doors vs stock. I fitted as many items as I could to test fit and it weighs virtually nothing compared to stock. These alloy skins are really easy to crimp the lip too.

MiniDave

How far are you going to strip the body, all the way down to metal or just give the existing paint a good key?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

Just stripping the underside which is undercoat, paint, and various areas of surface rust.  Otherwise the new blue will spray over the old blue nicely.  If it ever warms up I can finish blasting Mark's mini then do my underside.

94touring

It's also amazing how much rust flake and dirt I swept up that came off during the floor and cill repairs.  That combined with double layer metal and bulky overcills had to be 50lbs worth of crap.   And mounting doors that don't weigh 45lbs each is a piece of cake!

94touring

After a few test runs, I have brackets that fit the mirrors as snug as possible without hitting anything.  Even installed the seat to make sure the position was right.

gr8kornholio

Those door skins look pretty sweet.  Too bad you have to paint them. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

94touring

Indeed. I want an all alloy mini. 

On the skins to snug up the upper section in the middle to the glass, I made a couple L brackets out of 20 gauge, then riveted into place on the skin lip and to the rail lip.  The outter trim piece covers this up and should provide a snug fit against the one slider it will come in contact with.  Any additional water that makes it way to the bottom of the doors will drain like the factory intended.  Plus it's been sealed with adhesive and any steel will be painted as well.

jedduh01

Mirror brackets are nice..  Im sure you'll embelish them with some Race Car style Speed Holes for Lightening of course!

94touring

The thought had crossed my mind lol.

Other door...

94touring

Just ordered a bunch of por-15 products.  Engine enamal for both myself and Marks Aussie mini.  He's going black (you don't go back) and I am going with red on the block.  Also ordered aluminum high temp manifold paint and a gallon of gloss chassis black for both my underside and future subframes due for painting. 

MiniDave

My understanding is you have to topcoat the chassis black or it turns chalky over time, especially any parts exposed to sunlight - just what I heard......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

We'll find out.  This is their topcoat black, which will be on the underside out of light.  Nearly ordered the rust preventative coat, but it was meant for rusty surfaces, which I won't have any after the quick blast.  I'll still use an expoxy sealer on the floor even though this black is direct to metal capable. 

94touring

Out here playing with new parts today.  I can't figure out these lights. How do these h4 bulbs stay in place??  The new assemblies are about 2.2lbs lighter for the pair than my old rusted out crap ones.

Boot and bonnet weight saving in fiberglass form is 17lbs.

MiniDave

#273
I believe there is a wire clip that holds them in.....sort of an omega shape. These are different but it kinda shows how it works
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring