1960 Austin Seven resto

[jeff10049]

They are cool I think all 59 to 62 cars had them maybe even later, I edited the last post to explain the often missing switches for the gauge and shelf lights. the light holes should have a clear plastic plug in them can be seen in tsuminis post on the top of last page mine are pretty bad im trying to find something close.
The gauge lights are powered on with running and then go through the driver side switch on the housing. pass side operates the shelf lights.


Jeff

[Willie_B]

Got two you are welcome to for the cost of postage.

[tsumini]

Took a few pictures of the work covered in the last few posts and some stuff I did last week.

Got master cylinders rebuilt did the clutch and brake bleeding they work well.
Drove the car around the shop and onto a trailer took to dmv got all the paperwork done plates coming.

All the glass is in other than the sliders, doors go on next.

Wiring is pretty much all done just need to tidy up a few areas. I found a bulb for the stalk signal indicator I'll look and post the part number it was not a led all the led bulbs needed a resistor to work with 12 volts easy enough, but I didn't feel like messing with it so just got a normal one two in a pack so should last me forever.

I noticed even all four of my brake drums are in good shape and from 1959. First pic is a drum date code.

Also got a new lucas fuse box cover and voltage reg cover they were missing.

Those MC's look good. I see you have the original with the removable nuts. 77.gif,
Mimi Mania sells bulb PN GLB280. I found out they are used extensively in dollhouses. You can also get the screw base pigtail for the signal stalk if you need one. Here's a site you can get them from.http://cir-kitconcepts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=13_42
I have the original pigtail but it doesn't fit the knob you made. Grounding is different. Original had spring in the knob which contacted the metal stalk. The replacement pigtail has two wires so it will have to be grounded inside the stalk mechanism.

ETA. Forgot a couple things. PN for screw base pigtail is CK1010-8 and 12V bulbs are CK1010-7. I overbought the screw base and can send a couple if you want them.
My plastic covers for the panel lights are disintegrating also so Willie_B if you have an extra...?

[Spitz]

Got two you are welcome to for the cost of postage.

I could use those Willie....if the one being offered them passes.
Also looking for the switch if anyone has.....

Matthew

[Willie_B]

Got two you are welcome to for the cost of postage.

I could use those Willie....if the one being offered them passes.
Also looking for the switch if anyone has.....

Matthew

Have not heard anything from Jeff yet. I will PM him in a few days to inquire.

[Shrimps]

The other end thru the bulkhead is just a flat strip bracket mounted to the clutch MC with a grommet where the cable goes thru. Should be easy to make.  I don't have access to this one right now to measure but you should be able to scale it from the nut dimension. I think it's about .875 wide. This is the same 1960 Morris installation.

Thanks for posting the pic.  A simple yet genius idea.  I made one last weekend for my Mk III.  Previously I had the throttle cable zip tied to keep it off the manifold but it was too tight of bend which caused the throttle to not return to idle immediately after letting off the gas.  That led to some interesting almost cruise control like behavior.

[jeff10049]

Willie, I will take the plastic things if you still have them I may have a line on some reproduction ones if that happens, you guys will be first to know.

I'll pm a address to you.

Thank you
Jeff

[Willie_B]

Willie, I will take the plastic things if you still have them I may have a line on some reproduction ones if that happens, you guys will be first to know.

I'll pm a address to you.

Thank you
Jeff

Good to know on both items.

[jeff10049]

Thanks tsu for the bulb info if the little radio shack one i got offers any problem i'll change it out.

About those masters i used this http://www.eastwood.com/golden-cad-kit.html?reltype=2&parent_id=2831 if you put down there silver cad first  then do the golden cad kit then clear coat it looks pretty dam close to plating for a paint system. I used less gold since most new old stock pics of early masters I saw were not really all that gold.

I used more gold on the fuel sender this is before i found out silver cad first makes it even better looking and clear after really finishes it off ,the sender is just the gold cad kit.


Jeff

[Mudhen]

I'd been looking at that stuff awhile back; reading the reviews seemed like everything - some people liked it, others hated it, so I held off.

That looks really good, though - think I might pick some up!

Pat

[jeff10049]

It's worth it pick up a can of there silver cad to put down first ,also good to have the silver cad for bolts and stuff.  For the stuff that really needs to be plated like hood latch parts I bought a plating kit from caswell I'll keep the forum posted on how that works out in another thread when i get a chance to try it. They sell a conversion coating solution to make it look like gold cad after plating.

Jeff

[jeff10049]

I got the doors mounted and slider glass installed, waiting on the gaskets for the window latches. Cleaned up the door latches and painted them both are dated in 59 and I have the round lock button so they are likely original to the car.

I don't like how tight the new weather strip is, it door holds the door out from the body at the bottom. It is the correct style for early cars hopefully it will settle in.
Also the rear side window weather strip seems way too tight to the frame no way to open and close without binding up even after being closed for weeks. Any tips? lube seal with something,  different brand of seal? Get windows closed and don't ever open?. It seems like the frame is supposed to go inside the seal all the way around not sit on top as far as I can tell but it wants to hang up on the latch end.

You can see in the picture how the back of the rear window frame is sitting out away from the body rather than flush. I assume this is not correct as the front end sits in the seal if I really fight it I can the the back in flush. like the damn seal is too big.

Jeff

[jeff10049]

Front sitting in seal like I think it should all the way around.

[MiniDave]

It was a long time ago, but I remember having this problem on my '62 also, seems like I sprayed silicone on the seal and closed it up and left it for a few months and it got better.....

Oh, and I think everyone has that issue with the door seals......some people bend the flange that the seal attaches to back in a bit to move the seal in farther. Time may help too.....

[jeff10049]

Yeah someone else said silicone helped a lot, I don't allow the stuff in the shop due to paint contamination problems. I will get some and spray on a rag so I can treat just the seal without getting it in the air. I don't really ever need to open those windows anyway but it would be nice to have them work correctly.

[tsumini]

The Mk1 forum had a discussion about seals in this thread.
http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12277&start=10

Apparently seals from Phoenix Trim works well for quarterlights. http://www.phoenixtrim.co.uk/Portals/Phoenix/Mini%20Cat%20Leaflet%202015.pdf
Shipping may be a problem as it is in the UK.

[MiniDave]

You have to join that board to read the discussion....but shipping from the UK is no issue, in fact I get stuff from there faster than I can get it from California.

Jeff, I understand your concerns with silicone spray, but they also make it in a paste, you just put a dab on your finger and rub it in - that ay no airborne contamination. This is the one I buy and I use it on a lot of different things....

[jeff10049]

Thank you for the info guys,

I see phoenix also has a special seal for the door that allows it to close better I'll try the silicone first and see how things settle in, if not It's good at least I have options.

I found some tube silicone and have it coming.

Knowing what I know now I would recommend anyone that has not already bought door seals get the phoenix easy closing ones if you have sliding window doors, my doors are a real bitch to shut no way other than slam the shit out of it.
Hoping they get better so I don't have to buy the phoenix ones.

It seems like back 5 or so years ago the was a discussion over on MM about door seals and slitting them on the bottom to help the door close. I may try that also.


Jeff

[tsumini]

Sorry about the link.It times out also so I have to login constantly.
Anyway I'm gonna need some trim for my car about mid summer so if anyone wants to group buy to save on shipping let me know.

http://www.phoenixtrim.co.uk/Portals/Phoenix/Mini%20Cat%20Leaflet%202015.pdf

[jeff10049]

color sanded and buffed the hood, boot lid, and installed today. The parts for the lights came in thanks willie.

Also primed the seam covers and test fit today, made the threaded boss parts that go into the glass to screw the slider latches too, the latch gaskets came in along with new carpet and draft excludes for the slider windows so the slider window latches are installed glass is done.

How do you big feet guys drive these early cars? When in first I can't get my foot to the gas pedal without steping on the brake the shifter is in the way maybe I just need to wear pointy shoes. or modify shifter, pedals, or all three.

Driving around the parking lot a little and letting the 850 get some rpms up it feels really good way more power than I expected can't wait to get it out on the road and see how it does as I can only get to second gear in the lot.

[jeff10049]

Today's project was to grind off all the rivets that hold the grill together and clean and straighten all the slats. sand blast and paint the steel parts and put it all back together.

[Mudhen]

Today's project was to grind off all the rivets that hold the grill together and clean and straighten all the slats. sand blast and paint the steel parts and put it all back together.

Wow, that's gorgeous!!

[tsumini]

Nice job on the grill. Did you use pop rivets to reassemble? I rassled with mine trying to reassemble with the same semi-tubular rivets it came with. I ordered steel rivets and found out the original ones were copper. couldn't get copper so got brass. Bought manual rivet anvil but cant get at the rivet to buck it. Need special rivet squeeze gun setup I think. Set it aside to contemplate. Thinking about just cleaning up between the slats and replacing a few missing rivets. Pop rivets will be easy.

[jedduh01]

PM'd about your great flasher stalk resto -  Interested in one if you have extras.  Please let me know! I NEED I NEED!

[jeff10049]

Thanks, I used aluminum pop rivets quick and easy seemed to work fine. If I were to use another type of rivet I would go with solid aircraft rivets and just build/ grind a custom bucking tool. or you could buy a shit load of button head #6 stainless screws and nuts. assemble and grind all the length off. Or buy this http://www.7ent.com/products/grille-mk1-austin-850-14a7299.html

Jeff