1960 Austin 850 Project

[tsumini]

Insstalled steering wheel and horn
Installed carpet
Installed battery cover
Installed air filter with decal
Install front seats. Discovered that the upholstere put in some extra foam in the seat so it sits higher. I'm 6'2" so can't afford the loss of head room. Realized i was in midrange of seat adjustment then adjusted full back and was better but still pretty tight.

So mostly done. will have to order seatbelts and look at bumpers.
Then mostly touchup paint and cleanup.
Oh and test drive for a while.

[MiniDave]

"Oh and test drive for a while."

The best part!   77.gif

[tsumini]

Fired up the carand while warming up it sputtered slowed and stumbled and the stopped running. It wanted to run but couldn't seem to accelerate. Kinda seemed like fuel starvation. Rapped on the fuel bowl and retried. Ran a little then died again.
I spent a week in Florida with inlaws so left it and didn't get back until Sat. the 4th.
Hoped it wasn't fuel pump as I replaced all seals and set the points and tested before installing. Also installed new needle and seat but not the float so pulled cover and checked float. It seemed to be OK but no way of telling if it was sticking. Since I didn't have anew one I set the float per the manual and retried. Long story short. Spent past two days removing and re-installing float cover with no success. I did't have a pressure gage that would see 3 psi so couldn't check fuel pressure although it clicked as usual then stopped as usual. Seemed like plenty of fuel when I disconnected it and ran it into a bowl.
Decided to check it with gravity feed and ran with about 2 ft of head pressure on life support . Made sure the IV (Paint sprayer tank) was full then fired it up. It ran like a champ until it drained the tank so figgered I had a bad fuel  pump. Filled up the IV tank a couple of more times then it stareted doing the same thing. Tried to run but couldn't quite then died. Tried again after a couple of minutes, stuggled for a little bit then roared to life. I think the float is sticking somewhere so went inside and ordered a float and new needle.
I also ordered a 12V inline fuel pump to try before getting the float. Fuel pump from Amazon and float from Minimania so pump will get here first. I think a new float should do it but haven't ruled out the pump. Hate the thought of changing the FP.
Any other ideas?

[MiniDave]

Partially blocked fuel filter or line?

[tsumini]

In lieu of glamor shots but thought I'd throw these up to show current shape.
Forgot to put on wheel covers. I have the small  Basic covers in reasonable condition. Also have a set of the deluxe square hole covers in not so great condition.
Bumpers were being worked on.

[tsumini]

Partially blocked fuel filter or line?

Don't think so. Pump when running will produce a good stream of fuel into a container. As I wrote, I don't have a gage low enough to check pressure which I understand should be about 2-3 psi. New filter; changed to a large one prior.
There was a few times with the pump running the engine ran fine; accelerated normally but then slowly died. Just as I would suspect a stuck float to act when the bowl empties.

[jedduh01]

blocked intake in tank?   
fuel filter in line blocking up from crud?

Just a recent experience of my own
    _ Bugeye i worked to put back on the road = new pump + lines and filter..    car would go go go just fine for the first 6 Minuets..     then fall on its face like no fuel..
    Fuel filter up by carb turns out was full of mud...after sitting the mud would settle and car would run ok .. but after running the mud would push up to the outlet and block fuel in the filter media.

Fuel tank needed washing...

Done and fixed. Happy little Bugeye.

[CooperTune]

Sorry if I missed it but if those are early wheels do not drive on them. The material is to thin and they were prone to failure. I had some we welded plates into back in the 60s. That was after a complete failure of right rear in a very rare round about in Norfolk Va. When that rim and tire departed almost flipped her. Steve (CTR)

[Jimini II]

Partially blocked fuel filter or line?

Don't think so. Pump when running will produce a good stream of fuel into a container. As I wrote, I don't have a gage low enough to check pressure which I understand should be about 2-3 psi. New filter; changed to a large one prior.
There was a few times with the pump running the engine ran fine; accelerated normally but then slowly died. Just as I would suspect a stuck float to act when the bowl empties.

Breather hole on the float lid blocked? If so it creates a vacuum after running for a short time.
When it dies is there any fuel left in the bowl?

[MiniDave]

Good call!

[tsumini]

Sorry if I missed it but if those are early wheels do not drive on them. The material is to thin and they were prone to failure. I had some we welded plates into back in the 60s. That was after a complete failure of right rear in a very rare round about in Norfolk Va. When that rim and tire departed almost flipped her. Steve (CTR)

Yes i'm aware of the riveted wheel problem. Please re-read Reply #223 on: December 12, 2019, 10:16:01 PM previous page.

[tsumini]

Partially blocked fuel filter or line?

Don't think so. Pump when running will produce a good stream of fuel into a container. As I wrote, I don't have a gage low enough to check pressure which I understand should be about 2-3 psi. New filter; changed to a large one prior.
There was a few times with the pump running the engine ran fine; accelerated normally but then slowly died. Just as I would suspect a stuck float to act when the bowl empties.

Breather hole on the float lid blocked? If so it creates a vacuum after running for a short time.
When it dies is there any fuel left in the bowl?

Nope, checked the hole and it was clear.

[tsumini]

blocked intake in tank?   
fuel filter in line blocking up from crud?

Just a recent experience of my own
    _ Bugeye i worked to put back on the road = new pump + lines and filter..    car would go go go just fine for the first 6 Minuets..     then fall on its face like no fuel..
    Fuel filter up by carb turns out was full of mud...after sitting the mud would settle and car would run ok .. but after running the mud would push up to the outlet and block fuel in the filter media.

Fuel tank needed washing...

Done and fixed. Happy little Bugeye.

Have not completely eliminated possibility of a problem before fuel filter but wanted to make sure it was there before tackling fuel pump  tank etc. Still hinking float will  fix it. Just put on a new inline filter.  Discharge into a bottle after the filter shows plenty of volume just not sure pressure is sufficient. Haven't invested in a 0-10 psi gage yet.

[tsumini]

I'lve been mulling the bumper situation. I could get two new bumpers for a price but the car had the original "long" bumpers but are not in the best condition. Long bumpers are rather rare and were only available for a short time in early 1960.  There were a few dents and the front one was bent. I wasn't sure it was going to be worth repairing and rechroming but gave it a try. It is made with .050 sheet metal and chrome plated. I hammered out the dents, welded in some new sections. It won't be perfect but will be a little wavy and have a few flaws so wondering if saving a long bumper makes sense.
With the rough repair and initial profile shaping done on the belt sander I sprayed them with aluminum paint to get an idea what they would look like say 10 feet/10 mph. Not sure of chrome plating cost though.
Opinions?

[MiniDave]

I know Chrome plating is expensive now - when I was growing up we had several bumper shops in town where you could get yours replaced, or fixed and re-chromed - those are as long gone as the cars that wore them.

That's probably why all the new ones are polished stainless steel now.

Maybe try some of that new chrome spray paint - it sure looks great in the You Tube vids I've seen of it.

Your repair work looks pretty damn good to me!

[jeff10049]

Bumper repair looks good just send them to d and r chrome in CA.

[Jimini II]

I'lve been mulling the bumper situation. I could get two new bumpers for a price but the car had the original "long" bumpers but are not in the best condition. Long bumpers are rather rare and were only available for a short time in early 1960.  There were a few dents and the front one was bent. I wasn't sure it was going to be worth repairing and rechroming but gave it a try. It is made with .050 sheet metal and chrome plated. I hammered out the dents, welded in some new sections. It won't be perfect but will be a little wavy and have a few flaws so wondering if saving a long bumper makes sense.
With the rough repair and initial profile shaping done on the belt sander I sprayed them with aluminum paint to get an idea what they would look like say 10 feet/10 mph. Not sure of chrome plating cost though.
Opinions?

Nice work.
What are your thoughts of welding the longer earlier ends onto new stock bumpers, apart from three studs mounting them as opposed to the earlier five stud mounting they should look the same.

[tsumini]

Thought about welding the ends on a new bumper but would have to re-chrome it on top of the cost of new seemed impractical. I would just go with the new one.

[Jimini II]

It is tough to know what to do and when to stop when doing a restoration, a lot depends on how original you want it to look or be.
At least with a bumper problem you always have the option of installing what you have or new ones now and addressing the correct length ones at a later date without having to dismantle a lot of stuff to get to them.

[tsumini]

I don't have a problem with a flawed bumper. It would be original to the car. Most parts on this car are 60 years old and show their age and flaws from environment so a few new parts don't add a lot of value. You're right, their's some options. I may find some of the chrome paint Dave suggested and see how that goes. I haven't pricede re-chrominging but expect it to be more than new part.

[Jimini II]

Re chroming around here when you can find someone to do it would likely cost at least twice as much as a new bumper.
Another source may be to chrome wrap it. It seems a lot of owners of various cars are carbon wrapping bumpers etc so I am sure chrome wrap is a possibility.

[jeff10049]

D and R will also heavy copper plate and use the copper like a filler to further smooth out any imperfections they will look really nice send them photos and let them know they are small and they can quote it for you.
https://www.dandrchrome.com/

I did not have bumpers with my car so it just has new stainless they look fine but maybe someday If I come across a set of long ones I'll fix them up an install.
If you buy new stainless ones watch out they'll cut the shit outta you sharp as a razor on the back edge. File them down before install.

[tsumini]

Thanks for the tips Jeff. I was wondering about filler for flaws. I found that my welding leaves some surface inclusions that would show in chrome plating so have reservations there. I'll give d and r a call.

[tsumini]

So I got the electric fuel pump and hooked it up drawing from the gravity feed with the old float since I hadn't gotten the new one. Ran pretty good for a while then stumbled and repeated the same trouble so figgered the problem was either the float or the carb itself. pretty sure it's low fuel flow since it dies immediately when the fuel in the gravity tank runs out.

Then today I received the float from MM (GSU200).  I installed it on the float with the pin and discovered there was a problem with the way it fit.
Referring to the 2nd photo, the top two photos compare the old float (Left) vs the new. The new one doesn't allow any movement of the needle and basical locks it closed. It would require severe "bend to fit" to work like the old one.
I installed the old one againg beding the pivot slightly to tighten it up for less slop. Ran it again and no change.
Bottom of photo shows float levers and pivot (red circles). Notice that the old one has its lever about 1/8 inch offset compared to the new one.  I fear I have gotten the wrong float but researching available floats it is not obvious which float to get. The Cover is AUC 8452.
Beginning to think the problem may be in the carb itself. So I removed the Dashpot to inspect. It seemed to move without hangups and seemed to be ok. I had installed a new jet tube earlier due to a leak at the fuel bowl. I blew air back thru the jet tube to the fuel bowl and blew back thru the cover vent so it was clear.
So what I thought to be a relatively easy solution has returned like bad breath.
Anyone know the skinny on the float and cover fit?

[Jimini II]

That is the wrong float for your float lid.
Get in touch with Joe Curto in New York he has the right part and is very knowledgeable regarding SU's.
I am not sure the float is the problem though.
Have you tried running the car with the float lid removed and just topping the float bowl off to see how long it runs?