1960 Austin 850 Project

Started by tsumini, May 22, 2014, 06:45:40 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

MiniDave

#125
Hate to say it but I have seen pinhole leaks in the sides of the cans too, you might carefully feel around the sides of the can for moisture....

That exhaust pipe just looks wrong for your car, I'm surprised you could make it work.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

tsumini

#126
I need to install a thottle cable and accel pedal. I got the car without an engine so throttle cable was not installed. In the pile of parts I got the pictured throttle cable but it doesn't look to be correct.
Anyone want to confirm. If it is wrong i'll order a throttle cable and trunnion pin kit. Is there any other thing I need. Also could anyone provide some photos or refereence to the installation especially through the firewall. I see a firewall boss where the cable goes thru but parts books don't show installation.
Thanks 

MiniDave

#127
I don't know about these early 850 cars, but that's not a throttle cable I've seen before.....that looks more like a cable for a motorcycle.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

tsumini

MiniDave,
I did repair a leak in the bottom seam. see Reply #38 on: August 26, 2014, 11:19:58 , Clutch MC had been installed turned 180 degrees and caused interference with the Brake MC.
For the time being i guess I'll put a diaper on the outside to absorb any fluid until I can leak check it. Maybe the top seam has a hole.

That exhaust seems to be the only one available for '59 '60 vintage. All parts suppliers showw the same thing.
I was considering having one built but I couldn't find a source for 1 1/4 Dia exhaust pipe. It promised to be a big project. Since I have an original I may re-visit custom build. The new one comes in two pieces; the rear with muffler is Ok so custom pipe need only the front recontoured.

tsumini

Quote from: MiniDave on June 19, 2018, 06:52:53 AM
I don't know about these early 850 cars, but that's not a throttle cable I've seen before.....that looks more like a cable for a motorcycle.
Yeah it just doesn't look  right.

MiniDave

Right, according to the Somerford catalog, they show the old style pipe but say it's unavailable - to use the new style like you bought and modify it Wonder why you couldn't take both pipes to a muffler shop and have them bend the new one to match the old, since you have it to use as a pattern?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

tsumini

Yes I thought about that but that would mean taking it out and re-installing. Not really up to it now. It was a real struggle this time. Crawling underneath cars at my age is inappropriate.

tsumini

Getting ready to re-install fan and radiator. Had ordered and received the rubber radiator surround and installed it around the wing opening. It was 1/8 inch thick and a little difficult to fit onto the wing opening. The tabs had to be spread a little but it is obviuos they will have to be crimped tightly to make sure it doesn't come off. I recall reading an incident where one had come off mid flight and had destroyed the plastic fan. Not sure the crimped tabs are adequat without additional security. Installing the radiator and fan looks rather difficult so
I am now wondering if I should leave it out. It should improve cooling and help prevent overheating but am not sure of its overall effectiveness.
Any recommendations/experience pro and con for installing the rubber surround?

MiniDave

It does not improve cooling to leave it out - the air will take the path of least resistance - right thru the gap - instead of going thru the radiator.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

Dave,

The gap covered by the rubber seal is on the back side of the radiator - between the radiator and the fender/shroud - after the air has been pushed by the fan through the radiator.  It is supposed to work with the inner fender shroud to keep the hot air from backwashing into the engine bay.

I have no information one way or the other as to whether having it in improves cooling or not.  In all the Minis I have had that had the inner fender shroud, the rubber seal was already missing.


94touring

True, but it's fitted on the back side of the radiator.  Not as effective as a tight fitting shroud around the radiator, usually with a foam to seal the radiator to shroud.  What this rubber surround will do is help the high pressure air from within the engine compartment be directed to the low pressure air within the wheel well.  I personally think you're fine without it if it's fussy.

Edit: posted same time as playle

tsumini

Quote from: MiniDave on June 25, 2018, 07:43:20 AM
It does not improve cooling to leave it out - the air will take the path of least resistance - right thru the gap - instead of going thru the radiator.
Oops, meant to say it should improve cooling with it installed not left out. But looking at it now it won't make much difference. In the same league as "fan is on backward"  I agree with Dan that the gap around the shroud is more important although I haven't yet tried to put in foam seal.
I installed without rubber seal and withou foam seal. We'll see what happens.
Most important is the fan blade tip clearance which is the same all around after adjusting the radiator position.

tsumini

Ok got the fan, radiator and carb installed and Antifreeze in. Loose fitting in the back was leaking:tightened. Thermostat housing was leaking previously at the stud so i took nut off and dabbed RTV around the stud. Didn't help and was still leaking. Probably will have to pull the stud and seal it in the head. Tried to fire it off with shot of gas in the carb. Sounded like it would run but wouldn't fire off. Re checked dizzy position and plug wires (one switched). Agiain put a shot of gas and seemed like it wanted to run but didn't.
Hooked up the SU fuel pump but it pissed fuel at the outlet. Again wanted to run but couldn't. Backed of timing improved and ran breifly and weekly. Backed off the timing and engine started! Finally. Adjusted idle and exercised throttle several times. Seems to be a little boggy at the bottom end but accelerates nicely. Runs very smoothly, no sign of vibration.
Now that i know the engine runs and runs well I can install tank and fuel pump after it is repaired (ordered Viton seals) fix the leaks and install electricals with the new loom.
Oil pressure gage leaks on the back side fitting and Oil pressure regulating valve is seeping around the gasket. I took it off to paint the engine and had to make anew gasket which is seeping.
Overall some progress with a few stumbles.
Plan is to get the car so I can move it under its own power so in case we have to evacuate from a fire I can drive it into the trailer and be gone in a few minutes.

tsumini

Last few days trying to install fuel system. The car came missing the fuel pump, engine and throttle cables so have been researching the install.
I built a temporary bracket to mount the fuel pump (SU204) to the subframe. Brackets are available so need to order.
Throttle and choke cable mount was a little more difficult. Somerford and others showed PN 12A ABUTMENT PLATE-THROTTLE & CHOKE CABLES-HS2 '59-'69 NLA.
So if anyone out there have one in their stash I would appreciate hearing.

tsumini

Got fuel tank installed and built temporary bracket for fuel pump. Then installed rear elect loom. As usual did thing backasswards. Loom had to go behind tank so pulled it back out.

Mostly distracted by the Spring fire around La Veta Co about 100 miles east of where i'm at. Currently 60,000 acres biggest of 8 fires in CO. 104 homes reported destoyed today, about half of that subdivision where it started. Fire split into two, one going south and one going North.

I had bought a 35 acre lot near La Veta Pass (NE of where it started). Fire spread quickly and over ran it. Right now it's about in the center of burned out area and shows to have been burned up. I sold it a few years ago to a guy retiriung from the Air Force. He built a cabin/stucture. Anxious to see if it survived.
Always liked the area. It's gonna leave a huge scar.

tsumini

Catching up. Old lot is toast.
Replaced thermostat gasket. Fixed leak.
Replaced Fuel Pump seals with Viton seals. No more leaks.
Waitng (today?) forFP mount bracket. Secured fuel tank. Checked sender, appears the gage may bew bad. Was working last time I checked. I'll try the one from the Morris.
Coil is leaking oil onto the starter. It gets pretty hot. May need to install the resistor.

Got motor running again but found fuel seeping from the bowl outlet to jet assembly. Seal sold as AUD2194 was hard and brittle. Looked at MM $2.95 for seal $5.00 for Handing and $16.19 for shipping for total $24.xx. Apparently the smaller the part the more it costs to ship? Orderd from Minispares $1.00 for seal $5.00 postage.

tsumini

Little more update. Checked brake fluid leaking from top of bean can. Staticaly it did not leak. Attached a baloon to the cap opening for low pressure. 24 hours balloon stayed inflated so no pinholes. I think the MC was overfilled so that the cap displaced enough fluid to push it past cap threads. Anyway no more leaks so far. Keeping the level below the neck.


MiniDave

#142
The balloon is a pretty inventive way to test the tank's integrity   77.gif

I take it you mean the old lot is now burnt toast? Sad if he lost his place there too.....

To test the fuel gauge, first see if you have voltage at the sender, if you do ground the tank sensor wire, the gauge should go full scale, if it doesn't then test the gauge by grounding the sensor wire at the gauge, if it doesn't move, bad gauge.

If you don't have voltage at the sender, you need to go back to the gauge and see if you have voltage there.....proceed accordingly.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

tsumini

Loom installation.
I connected loom enough to get engine running. Made a makeshift seat so I wouldn't have to sit on the crossmember and proctology bracket. Seat is just a 3/4 thick board 13 inches wide with a 4x4 screwed in the back and a 1x2 cleat in front of the crossmember. Works great.

Autosparks loom is excellent. I is excellent quality and very accurate. With one exception(loom has spade connector for the wiper motor;it needs an eyelet connector) I have yet to find a mistake in either the location of connectors, color code or connector type. It even had the wider generator spade connector so i didn't have to guess which post went where. I find it almost fool proof.

I did find out that spade connector needs the outside foreskin pulled back before pushing connector on. If not pulled back the insulaion may keep connector from fully contacting.

Getting some parts shipment shortly so continue lights install and loom.

tsumini

Quote from: MiniDave on July 12, 2018, 11:02:55 AM
The balloon is a pretty inventive way to test the tank's integrity   77.gif

I take it you mean the old lot is now burnt toast? Sad if he lost his place there too.....

To test the fuel gauge, first see if you have voltage at the sender, if you do ground the tank sensor wire, the gauge should go full scale, if it doesn't then test the gauge by grounding the sensor wire at the gauge, if it doesn't move, bad gauge.

If you don't have voltage at the sender, you need to go back to the gauge and see if you have voltage there.....proceed accordingly.
The balloon idea came when i tried to figger out how to pressurize it without taking it off.
Didn't take the time to troubleshoot the gage. Sener seemd to have the proper resistance (see page three of this thread) so guessed that gage was the problem. I'll check gage using your check.
Yeah burnt toast, the lot was heavy pine timber, prime fuel. Saw a video of a section about 1/4 mile below and it was complete burn up. Hoping the house/barn owner had was not burned.

tsumini

Test fit tthe RH door. It looks like it will fit pretty good. Didn't see where I needed to tweek.

I'm trying to order the door seals. I've read some seals are too thcik and cause problems. I've also rewad that Phoenix trim is good. It tells you to install the door and put Blue Tack Test but visually I can see there's not much variation in the gaps. It is about 3/8 inch around the door itself but is about 1/2 inch around the window. I'm not exactly sure what door seal I should order.  There's DX 73,DX 85, DX 88P and SRS 122. I may ahve to email Phoenix Trim with the gap info and see what they recommend.

Also got the throttle cable but had ordered the long (31 in) instead of the short (24 in) so I'll need to re-order. Anyone need a long Throttle cable? Don't see any way of cutting it shorter.

MPlayle

The throttle cable should have a crimped on tab at just one end, unless the throttle cable has tabs on both ends like for the fuel injected Minis and those will not work with a SU carb.

To shorten, slide the inner cable out of the sheath.  Cut the sheath with a hacksaw or cutting wheel on a dremel tool.  Slide the inner cable back into the sheath.  Shorten the inner cable with wire cutters AFTER installing on the carb through the trunion.  The factory end is usually easier to get through the trunion than a cut end.


tsumini

Ok this one has swaged ends both ends. Didn't know the one end at the carb didn't have the swaged end. So yes I can cut it back. Looks like I may have to rob the abutment plate from the morris or fashion a homemade one. These apparently are rare. I found one in Spain for 30 euros plus shipping... The plate without the choke cable part is just as rare too. I think I need something to secure the end?

MPlayle

Give me a couple days to check the stuff left over from the Moke project.  I don't recall if I have that plate still or not.


tsumini

Mike thanks appreciate it but no need. I fashioned a rube goldberg temporary plate that will work until i can get the Morris one. It is back in Texas so will ahve to wait till I get back there.