1960 Austin 850 Project

[MPlayle]

The tie strap and gaiter groove are supposed to fit the groove in the CV.  In the second picture, you have the gaiter pulled too far towards the hub and it will foul with the hub.

The lower profile straps like Dave suggests are also a good idea.

[tsumini]

Hmm... this is  Minisport BAU20119EVA supposedly for early CV. The red mark on photo with parts separated is about the distance from the edge of the boot to the groove in the boot. The green line on the CV joint is about the distance the red line should be for grooves to line up so the boot rode up too far. It was either that or try to draw down the boot well behind the CV groove and hope it didn't back off. I redid the boots with wire wrap so eliminate the tiewrap problem.
I think there are several diffent boots out there but there doesn't seem to be any info on the above distance problem and not too keen on buying to find out.
Anyone know if any will fit?

[jeff10049]

I tried a few and never found anything to fit the early cv I ended up cutting off a couple ribs of a honda civic boot to get to a smaller section seems to be wroking fine. I read years ago on MM about a quad boot that was perfect polaris sportsman 500 maybe can't remember for sure.

[tsumini]

I tried a few and never found anything to fit the early cv I ended up cutting off a couple ribs of a honda civic boot to get to a smaller section seems to be wroking fine. I read years ago on MM about a quad boot that was perfect polaris sportsman 500 maybe can't remember for sure.

I'll check some out. Thanks

[tsumini]

Chased some gaitors and pretty much came up empty handed. In retrospect I could have turned a groove forward of the existing groove but that would mean taking them apart again so I did the best I could and hopefully sucure them well eniough to stay and not foul on the hub.

Built up the rear subframe and installed in the car. leak checked the brake line after connecting the pipe from the proportioning valve in the rear to the tee on the firewall. Maintained 60 psig for about two hours. When the front SF goes in then I can connect the pipe from brakes to the brass tee pictured. Using the same setup I can leak check both front and rear at the same time. Then all that's left is from the brass Tee to the Master Cylinder. I tried to check the front but I had to use copper washers from Oreillys which weren't correct so didn't work.  The correct washers should arrive Tues. along with gaitors for the shaft at the differential. Somehow missed ordering those. Also turned the drums.
Front SF is almost complete , discovered one of the rubber u joint was delaminated? so it stuck out far enough to foul on the engine case. Very little clearance there. So am delaying the install for the ujoint unless MM can't get it quick.

Front SF ready to go in when parts arrive. Pic shows shade tree method of installing SF and engine. A main beam is probably better than a tree branch.  Tiedown straps are run underneath the car to the rear SF and tied off there. Come alongs are hung from floor joists and then hooked to the straps. The intent is to draw up the front with the come along with the rear pivoting on the rear tires. When the front is high enough run the SF into position with the floor jack. Drop the front onto the SF mounts and secure. Other folks have used this method so don't see any big problems.

[MiniDave]

A couple of healthy young men can lift the front end of that car, it's so light without the engine!

I put the engine into my Clubman Estate this way with no issues, I used the engine crane to lift the car high enough to roll the engine and subframe under it, then let it down. Then hooked the crane to the engine and lifted it up into place as I found balancing the subframe on the jack was near impossible unless you just put it under the sump.

After all, from the bottom is how the factory built it.

I also pull E-type engines this way, drop it down the bottom, lift the car and roll it out.....installation is the reverse as they say.

You're making great progress! Got to git er done before the heat comes, right?

[tsumini]

Unfortunately I'm not tyhat healthy so have to do it the couch potato way.
Thanks for the suggestion to lift the engine. I left the chain attached in case i needed it.

I ordered a rubber ujoint but I found out MM has to reorder and won't get til the 27th. I'm going to post a asking if anyone has a good used on to replace the bad one. A piece of rubber from one end is protruding and fouling on the engine. Worse comes to worse I will trim the protrusion and install. I would like to get this thing installed in the next couple of days. I could change it later but looks much more difficult. So if you have any laying around...

[MiniDave]

I actually prefer the replacement ujoint kits that eliminate the rubber

7 Enterprises has those rubber joints in stock - their part number  GCD0101 800-992-7007

[tsumini]

I actually prefer the replacement ujoint kits that eliminate the rubber

7 Enterprises has those rubber joints in stock - their part number  GCD0101 800-992-7007

I think i cheaped out since i had one good one.
Just ordered from minispares. Thanks

Beating the dead horse again I ran across the old CV boots I had taken off and saw that the main part was longer so it would have fit better. Now I just have to be on the lookout for something similar. There was no indentifying marks on the boots.

[tsumini]

I was expecting a shipment of parts from minspares today to finish the Front SF but got surprised to get my order of tires instead which I ordered after.  Falken 145/80/10. So they arrived about 1:30 PM but didn'ty see the box until about 3:00.  i grabbed the newly painted rims and run them up to a neighborhood tire shop in North Tyler who had resealed some 10 inch tires for me a few months ago. After a little reluctance the guy said he'd give it a shot. 1st one went on like a charm as did the rest (4 total), $50 for four which didn't include balance apparently so add balance at $5 ea. So for $70 and $10 tip I was headed home in less than  an hour. Last three tires took 20 minutes.
ONe rim was NFG with cracked holes so I couldn't mount the spare.I'll be looking for another wheel. I have four from the Morris but they are all early rivited type. I may use onr for a spare though.
Picture shows mounted tires with two binnacles. The one on the left is the binnacle from the 60 Morris front end I have. Sherwin Williams used this one to match the paint.  The one on the right is the original binnacle that was repainted with the SW oil based paint. Also painted the rims with the paint.
 

[Willie_B]

This is what I have extra. 2 with the lines 1 smooth. All about 1" of area till the flex part. Yours for postage.

[tsumini]

Thanks willie that would be great. Let me know what postage is  i'll paypal.  Do you have part number for the smooth one to order if i need another.
I PMd my mailing address.