1960 Austin 850 Project

Started by tsumini, May 22, 2014, 06:45:40 PM

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tsumini

As I told Dan, i am considering selling the mini. I may not have enough time to complete it and health issues make it more difficult. Procrastination doesn't help either. Anyway if anyone has suggestions please let me know. Not sure of how much to ask. I can answer any questions about the car. The biggest thing is it doesn't have a title. My brother bought it several years ago from a guy that had done some work on it but didn't get paid so stored it out in a field for several years. That was probably 20 years ago and its history is probably very difficult to find.


tsumini

#76
So i decide to take the car back to Texas instead of leaving it in Colorado. I finally got the car painted. After much struggling to lay down a smooth coat I kinda muddled to an acceptable result, not concours but acceptable. I think I repainted the to  six times and the rest of the car at least twice.I used a nitrogen to paint but ran out half way through the first coat.Rather than stop I just hooked up the air compressor but used straight thru line instead  of the water separator circuit which I wasn't sure worked well. Coat looked good until morning when I saw as many divots as a tee box. So total re-sand and re-paint. I used a gallon and three quarters and have only enough for touch up. So wasted  lots of paint trying to put on too thick I think. Now I can think about assembly. I need to get a new loom.
 

MiniDave

Glad to see you decided to keep it, now just keep plugging away till its on the road again!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

tsumini

Yeah house is for sale and I have three trips ot take this year plus family reunion so the presuure is on.

94touring

Those dots or dimples are fish eyes.  Just finite oil residue.  Car looks good from here  77.gif

velopackrat

I've got an NOS AutoSparks loom if you're interested.  Cooper S type for stock electrics.

tsumini

Quote from: 94touring on March 03, 2018, 08:45:48 PM
Those dots or dimples are fish eyes.  Just finite oil residue.  Car looks good from here  77.gif
Yeah I had oil in the tank too. Total screwup.

tsumini

Quote from: velopackrat on March 04, 2018, 07:18:32 AM
I've got an NOS AutoSparks loom if you're interested.  Cooper S type for stock electrics.
I need a loom but not Cooper S. Can it be altered fo Basic saloon Part No. 322 according to their website.

tsumini

Autosparks says Cooper S loom won't work too well so I'll ust order the basic loom thanks for the offer.

tsumini

Wirine harness is seven weeks out. Bummer. Was going to install first but thinking it can go in anytime?

MiniDave

Unfortunately, it should be one of the very first things you put in the car......maybe you can work on building all the other subsytems up and have them ready to install? Or have you already done that?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

Quote from: tsumini on March 06, 2018, 08:48:52 AM
Wirine harness is seven weeks out. Bummer. Was going to install first but thinking it can go in anytime?

I think 8-9 weeks is their standard system sent reply time. I was told the same for the moke harness I ordered, it was delivered less than 2 weeks later. I did get an email that it was shipped so knew to expect it.

tsumini

Quote from: Willie_B on March 06, 2018, 10:30:20 AM
Quote from: tsumini on March 06, 2018, 08:48:52 AM
Wirine harness is seven weeks out. Bummer. Was going to install first but thinking it can go in anytime?

I think 8-9 weeks is their standard system sent reply time. I was told the same for the moke harness I ordered, it was delivered less than 2 weeks later. I did get an email that it was shipped so knew to expect it.
Thanks i am hoping that will happen.

tsumini

Re-thinking loom install. I see Mplayle installed all components then the loom. Makes more sense.

MPlayle

The wiring loom install can go both ways.  I have replaced looms in several Minis over the years in the hobby - Saloons, Vans and now the Moke.

On one of the Saloons, everything was out of the car as I was doing a full mechanical refurbishment.  Running the rear harness of a saloon works better with the car empty and the fuel tank out.

Others I have replaced the harness with everything else in place.

On the Moke, I have been working from back-to-front in putting everything back together.  I did the rear harness first on the empty shell, installed the rear lights, and then worked forward with the exception of getting the engine & front subframe in place for balance.  As open as the Moke is, it is easy to work around having other stuff already installed.  The front wiring harness I had already attached to the instrument pod, so those are going in as the same step.

When I did the 1961 Saloon I had a while back, it was getting a custom dash.  I built the dash up (all new gauges including an electronic speedometer) as a sub-assembly.  I installed the main harness into the car and then connected to the dash.


tsumini

#90
Well, looks like loom will take the full lead time. It's been four weeks. Meanwhile i've done a few other things.

Painted the doors bonnet and boot. Had to re-do the doors. Too many ripples in the finish. Apparently surfaces weren't as straight as I thought. So far everything has been re-painted at least once.

Installed the first part: the brake and clutch master cylinders. There were three spacers when dissassmbled but I didn't notice why. The clutch clevis is about .050 shorter than brake so I put two spacers under the clutch MC Then checked position of pedals. Pedals turned out to be close even. I put new clevis pins in both but there was still a little looseness in each about .005 slop so I checked the "play" of each one and decided it was acceptable (about 1/8 inch). If it's not good then I'll need to get a larger diameter pin or find MC yokes with smaller holes. See video.

Also checked operation of each by hooking up a dummy wheel cylinder and bleeding. Hard pedal and no seepage.

tsumini

Planned to build up the front subframe but the engine was mounted in it so decided jump ahead and clean and paint the engine. 1st photo is my feeble attempt at mixing and trying to match Rustoleum paint to the valve cover which turned out to be a waste of time so went to Sherwin Williams and had them match to the valve cover with their oil based satin paint. 

Last photo, somewhat unorthodox with accent of raised lettering. This is common on repainting piano plates. (I restored some a few years back). I dabbed paint on but a small paint brush works usually is used.

MiniDave

Looks like they got a really good match on the paint, I like the little details!

I see you remembered to install your bypass hose. I can't count the number of times I've put a cylinder head on only to remove the water pump so I could install the bypass hose......I don't use the accordion style, I cut a piece of silicone hose to match the  length I need.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

tsumini

Yeah I've been building the subframes and have been plague by putting somethiung together then having to remove it because the next part won't go in. ex. I found out that the bump stop on the front needs to go on before the upper arm( can't get a wrench in to tighten the mount bolts).  Also was missing the dust seal on upper arm support shaft. Also found it was reuired for the rear subby also. Basicaly i do everthing at least twice. LOL

gr8kornholio

I hope I've taken enough pictures and notes and labeled parts that I save some of these issues. But I'm sure I'll do it too. Thanks for sharing.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

94touring

Lol you're just getting lots of practice!

tsumini

Quote from: 94touring on April 08, 2018, 08:17:27 PM
Lol you're just getting lots of practice!
Yes, second time is easier and faster. i've always said you have to do/ study everything at least three times to learn it then you can teach it.


tsumini

So I started to build up the front subframe and found out I only had two upper arm dust seals (takes two each side) so had to order two more so ordered two more. Needs to go inside of frame on the upper arm. So decide to build up the rear subframe. It didn't take long to figger out I needed four more seals (same as front) for the rear swingarm.  I tried to note parts needed when I tore it down but those escaped me. I did find remnants of them in the pile of removed parts but didn't recognise them as being parts.

So I ordered some more and worked on brake plumbing. I had ordered premade pipes and found out that they came with double flare ends. The removed pipes had bubble flare so I called MiniMania and the parts guy said they would work ok so I tried. If I torqued them more than I thought necessary.  So I bought a flaring tool and trried bubble flare which IMO worked better (less leak with less torque).

As I discovered building the front subby the new wheel cylinders had a roll pin location and anti rotation feature but none of my backplates had the hole. Instead they have two raised nubs on the backplate which serve the same purpose. I cut off the roll pin flush with the surface (didn't know how to pull them out). Unfortunately the wheel cylinders don't quite fit between the two nubs so had to grind a relief cut (about 0.020) in the wheel cylinders so they fit snug.

If I had watched the video of http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=805.225 I could have avioided installing the brake shoe spring wrong. Instead I mounted the hub and checked fit and heard hub hitting the spring...

I installed brake pipes and leak checked from the wheels to regulating valve. The regulating valve gave me fits. I could maintain 80 psig for ten minutes but the copper washer at the cover had a small foaming leak. I flattened all surface the best I could. Cover itself was most difficult and apparently couldn't get it perfect. So I backed it a crack and looped a length of dental floss  into the crack and tightened again. Leak check again showed  no foaming at the valve and pressure held for two hours at 70 psig which should be OK.

Rear subframe ready to install. Camera battery dead so no photo. Saw ad recently: dead batteries, Free of charge.

tsumini

Building the front subframe. Tried to install CV gaiters on drive shaft. Drive shaft is the early 18 spline.
1st pic shows that gaiter appears to be too short for the band to fit the groove in the cv joint. Installed with tiewrap seems to be stretched too far and not fir well.
Question. Is gaiter groove supposed to fit the groove in the CV or is it supposed to fit on the flat of the CV?

BTW I couldn't secure the metal bands so installed tiewraps which I plan to replace with iron wire.

Part is Minisport Part No: BAU2019EVA Genuine Outer CV Joint Boot Kit
As you can guess I haven't done too many boot replacements.

MiniDave

I use tie straps too, however I use a kind where the tab doesn't stick up - those foul the hub. I'll bring some with me to CMU59. I can't see from your pic if that's the type you used too, but mine are black.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad