Tink: My '89 Mini

[John Gervais]

Definitely enjoying the build and the discussion regarding the inserts.

I bought a kit 2 years ago which contained 4 different sizes of stainless inserts.  I've only used it a couple of times, though, mostly on things that 'don't matter', as I can't read the German or French instructions on how to adjust the tool to accommodate different material thicknesses and insert size (BRK 01, as seen at the bottom of this page:  http://www.boellhoff.de/en/de/assembly_systems/riveting/rivkle_assembly_systems.php).

I bought it from the Danish wing of RS Components, but this is the same one:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/insert-kits/4257480/

I've tried contacting RS Components and Böllhoff in an attempt to obtain an English language version, but so far have been unsuccessful.  Someday...

[MtyMous]

John, If you do find the right use for it, you'll be glad you have it. It's a fantastic thing. I've already used it on my truck as well to mount something in a radiator support tube.

[John Gervais]

Oh, I've used it and it's done a fine job, its just that the instructions seem so detailed about measuring the thickness of the material and how much space one should have between the die and the insert's head that I'd like to know what it says, as I don't want to stress the tool.

I used it to fix threads to the inner lip of the slam panel to attach the dizzy splash shield, inserts to hold the relay holder screws, to fix a 'bar' under the LH dash (where the cardboard is unsupported) in order to give a place to tie the cables associated with my extra switches & gauges, also to attach the aux. gauge pod to the lower dash rail.

I've also got some p-clips for holding the brake and fuel pipes at the toeboard bend, but haven't gotten around to it yet, and eventually plan on re-fitting the wheelarches via riveted inserts - t'would make it really easy to take them off and on again, as I'm currently using stainless cap-head screws and nyloc nuts on the inside.

I'm probably using it correctly, but would like to be sure since it's a great device. 

[MtyMous]

I'm digging my heels in and making large purchases.... God help my bank account.


Round 1 of orders is coming from here:

[MiniDave]

So we'll see piles of parts in a few days?

[MtyMous]

Hopefully. But I'm gonna do a couple other orders tomorrow more than likely. I'm out of town 10 days for some family stuff, then I'll be back in. Hoping the parts arrive while my wife is still in town to get them otherwise the neighbor will have to be trusted.

[MiniDave]

Why did you choose DSN vs one of the other big English Mini parts suppliers? Was there something specific they carry that the others don't, or something else?

[Merlin]

All of their billet parts.

I know I have racked up quite a bill from them. I also know that Ill be back for some of their door jewelry soon.

[MtyMous]

Merlin nailed it. Their "RetroSport" line if Billet replacement parts and accessories is what I was after. Some of them are necessary for the dry build and some aren't, but I only want to pay shipping once.

[94touring]

That final 10% of the build will require 50% more shipments of parts. 

[MtyMous]

No joke, Dan. I'm trying to get everything from one place on a single order. Sometimes it's worth paying a bit more for one item to save a lot more on shipping everything. I need to put in a big order from MED and KAD this week. And probably an order from 7even and MiniSport in the next few weeks.

[MtyMous]

Back to the engine build portion of this,

What all is my builder going to need in order to balance the whole assembly? I want him to balance from the harmonic balancer all the way through to the fluywheel/clutch combo.

Here's what I intend to leave with him:

1) Obviously all engine internals (crank, cam, pistons, rods, rings, bearings, lifters, pushrods)
2) Front end - Timing cover, timing chain, harmonic balancer
3) Tail end - Flywheel, Clutch Plate, Clutch center, Clutch Cover all assembled and pre-balanced.

This is where I need help. What else do I need to give them? Gasket sets and head are all I can think of that would affect the dry build and the balancing. Help me oh great ones.

[MiniDave]

He will only balance the rotating masses - crank, flywheel, rods and pistons are all he needs - unless he tells you differently.

The clutch cover and disc are already balanced and marked for assembly to the flywheel.

Is he going to do the assembly or are you? That will determine what else he needs.

What rockers are you going to use? If factory forged S rockers like I used you'll need a new rocker shaft and he'll need to ream the bushings in the rocker arms to fit. If you're using roller rockers you don't need to do that.

[MtyMous]

Dave,

I'm already paying him to do assembly so he can get all of the tolerances right and then the dry build so I can order the right head cc'd to spec. So he will do final assembly as well.

He said he would balance everything (to include clutch/flywheel, etc) if I wanted. It's the same cost. So I figured it couldn't hurt to get it all balanced together.

The rockers are still up for debate. I want rollers, but I don't want to have issues like many others on here have had. I honestly am confused on what brand is worthwhile, and if there is any true benefit since I'll be running standard ratios anyway.

[94touring]

Regarding the poor minisport rockers, they sent me new hardware after I had issues and the quality was noticeable better.  I think unfortunately for them whoever was making them cut corners on the batch they made that myself and Jim got our hands on. 

[MiniDave]

Dave,

I'm already paying him to do assembly so he can get all of the tolerances right and then the dry build so I can order the right head cc'd to spec. So he will do final assembly as well.

He said he would balance everything (to include clutch/flywheel, etc) if I wanted. It's the same cost. So I figured it couldn't hurt to get it all balanced together.

The rockers are still up for debate. I want rollers, but I don't want to have issues like many others on here have had. I honestly am confused on what brand is worthwhile, and if there is any true benefit since I'll be running standard ratios anyway.

Well, then he'll tell you everything he needs......

Everything I've read says that for standard ratio's if you're not going to be running crazy stupid rpms, even the cheap stamped steel rockers are fine (gospel according to Vizard) but I went what I thought was a step up and got the forged Cooper S rockers.....they're not expensive and forged !  ;D

No question that for the long haul the rollers are nice, but what is long haul these days? Hardly anybody does 10K a year on their classic Minis like when they were new.....so do you really need them or are the just "cool", and expensive?

[John Gervais]

Could always 'compromise' and go with a set of Calver's 1.4 rockers -

http://dt-vps.co.uk/calverst.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=80

[tmsmini]

So I had some issues with roller rockers, but I do put 10 K miles + on multiple Minis a year. I went with the Calver ST 1.4 for recent builds.
I have a set of nearly new Titan 1.3 full roller and a set of well used 1.5 Titan full roller, if someone has interest.
Terry

[94touring]

How much?

[MiniDave]

Yikes! $500 for rockers, and they're not even rollers? (Calvers)

The OEM forged S rockers were only about $15 each X 8 = $120.

[MtyMous]

Well I've made some final decisions on a few directions I want to go with Tink. I've decided that I will go with a full Straight Cut gearbox (minus the crown and pinion) and I'll be installing some straight cut drop gears. All of it is coming straight from MED Engineering in the UK. Great customer service, great track record, and fantastic parts. I know many will think the full SC box is a bad decision for a street/track car, but I wanted to land on the side of too strong for street. I will track the car eventually, and might even add power adders down the road, so stronger internals now will be cheaper in the long run.

Oh... and my Retrosport order came in.  4.gif



Here's the one I'm most excited about using. Can't wait to put it on the new block with my fancy new damper pulley/trigger wheel (more to come on that).


And I couldn't wait to fit the new wiper motor bracket and the motor I cleaned up. (Still not totally sold on the wiper motor color).



Here's the fancy bits I've ordered from MED. Waiting on them to arrive.


Ultra Light Flywheel and heavy duty clutch




Straight Cut Drop Gears - Roller bearing type


Straight Cut Close Ratio Race Gear Set


Moly Coated X-pin Diff


Bunch of other small items, but that's the bulk of it.

Stay tuned for more fun things from KAD, Specialist Components, 7ent, and Minispares. I'm getting excited.

[94touring]

Awesome dude!

[MiniDave]

Wow, Tink is getting some bling and some serious hardware!

Whadya think, on the road by Xmas?

[MtyMous]

Thanks, guys.

Not sure when it'll be on the road. I want it driving by Christmas, but I have 1/4 the free time I used to with my job, so it really comes down to funds and time. Engine should be done soon (I delayed him with parts orders) and that is the biggest component as far as cost and time goes. Then it's interior, electrical, and all the little odds and ends.

Unfortunately it'll be ready when it's ready is the curent theme. But the drop dead date is next spring. I'm probably moving again and it's gonna be running by then.

[MiniDave]

Any idea where they'll send you next?

Hope it has good Mini roads.....