AcesLow's 1973 Morris Pick up

Started by AcesLow, April 05, 2011, 02:36:36 PM

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AcesLow

Both floors sides a exhaust tunnel are in. Ill put the subframe back in when im doing the front end. Im pretty sure that the firewall didnt move. The front mounts for the jig are attached to where the subframe mounts so nothing should have moved, but heres to hoping

Mudhen

Wow that's a lot of metal being replaced! I couldn't figure out what I was looking at, at first.  8.gif

x2 on the dolly...sweet.

AcesLow

Progress. heading back up there in 5 days to continue working.

AcesLow

Front inner wings are welded on.

Having issue fitting the inner a panels to get the doors to fit.

Also those magnum door steps are causing me grief.

Anyone have some tips on how to get everything squared up?

94touring

What seems to be the problem with the door steps? 

AcesLow

Not fitting at all. I patched up the old door sill and reattached it.

94touring

#81
Hmm.  Mine took a little persuasion but nothing too extreme.  The curves on the ends way off or something? 

Where are you getting hung up on the inner A panel?

AcesLow

Seems like they are an inch too long and when its in place the strip that spot welds too the floor at bottom of the door opening is nowhere near close. Im not going to use them anymore.

As for the a panels the inner and outer door hinge holes are not lining up at all. I took measurements for the thickness of the A post prior to put the new inner wings on and its within a 16th of an inch of the old measurements.



94touring

Yeah odd, mine certainly weren't an inch too long.  I'd say maybe about an 1/8th long which after a little pushing and pulling on either panel matched it up perfectly.  The bottoms weren't an issue at all along the cill or floor either for me. 

Those Apanels take a lot of fudging and manipulation sometimes to get to line up.  Wish I could see some pics where it might be causing the hold up.  Shoot if you weren't all the way up in Canada I'd fly out and lend a hand.   

     

94touring

#84
The lip that the rubber sits on for the door frame is a little tall on those panels, I believe thats what you were talking about.  I thought about trimming mine back but I don't believe there will be an issue there.   You can see in the curvature coming down from the post how it dips down to about normal and then comes back up along the door frame higher than normal.  My take was there was just excess metal during the press of the panel.  The edge of the seams have a bit of excess overhang from the press I ran the grinding wheel along after It was all welded into place to shave clean also.     


AcesLow

Sills are in now and the doors are close. My dad just laughs and tells how 55 chev panels are twice as thick as this tinfoi haha.

AcesLow

After 6 hours of taking the A panels off and on again. I finally have the passenger side door mounted. I still get a bit of droop in the door as the panel flexes a bit. i am thinking the flex will disappear(hopefully) when I mount the out wing.

Ihave to say this is the hardest vehicle I have ever had to mount doors on!

AcesLow

Both doors are on. Just need some fine adjustment.

How does the nose panel mount to the subframe?
I ordered some front mounts but they are four a mk 4 did the pickups have anything between the subframe and nose panel?

94touring

I'm not entirely sure what the original pressed grill front ends had for mounts.  The later models have a spacer/washer type piece that fits between. I was planning on putting some kind of shim between the two just to prevent it from pulling the front end in too much.  I'll throw some eye bolts in there when its done and snug things up. 

Nicholasupton

Depending on the year of the car, and which subframe is fitted. Single bolt front subframes use a rubber mounted front panel (teardrop mount) and twin bolt bolts directly to the subframe. Either front panels can be shimmed to fit. I normally mount the front panel to the subframe very loosely then make everything line up. After welding use shims to fill in any gap between the subframe and front panel, don't just suck the front panel into place with the bolts, as you will twist the gaps for the bonnet.

AcesLow







I am getting close. I hate the A panels, they are the worst thing to mount and I am not using the horrid "weld through" primer anymore.

94touring

Nice looking work.  Yes A panels, external hinges, and sliding windows are the worse thing ever! 

AcesLow

Thanks!

The second photo down is where i had my most trouble. The width of the door frame to the inner wing was difficult to judge. My panels flare outward a slight but even amount on both sides. Not sure if this is normal but I can flex them inwards if they are are supposed to be flush with the doors. I also found that the indents where the inner A panels are supposed to line up to the inner wing were not in the exact spot. But the doors shut they sag a bit but I won't worry about that until its finished.


Mudhen

Awesome, AL!  Sounds like its been a tough one...I have trouble picturing how it would be to get everything lined up when you had to replace all that stuff - man...crazy.

Keep it up, though!!

Pat

AcesLow

Heading back up on Friday to hopefully finish up! What do you use for under liner? I have heard of rhino liner , hippo liner and line -x. Anyone know the best one?

I have not picked a color yet either...



94touring

I am one of these guys who despises underliner.  Hard to remove later on.

AcesLow

So not much to report. Have not had a chance to get up to my dads to continue working on it. Now that summer is basically over Ill be working hard on the mini as soon as I get a chance... Putting a front end on looks a little intimidating I can hide little mess ups if is the floor but the front end is something you will see all the time..

94touring

Any particular concerns with the front end?  Just remember to throw on the subby to use as an alignment tool. 

Nicholasupton

Start out by making sure your front subframe is square (I have only had one square one to  start with). Install the subframe and bonnet with correct gap at the rear. Install fenders starting at the inner rear corner and working you way around scuttle panel, then work down the inner fender line watching the gap line with the bonnet.  After you finish clamping the panel into place and are happy do the same to the other side before welding anything. I usually leave the fenders clamped to the front panel and remove like a 1 piece front end. This allows me to spotweld the panels together without having to lay on my back.




Mudhen

Quote from: Nicholasupton on August 24, 2012, 03:24:13 PM


This part confuses me...like the two panels aren't going to fit square - the top piece seems like it's at a funky angle which would leave a 1/4" gap when they come together.

Gotta be really hard all over to get the welded seams to look smooth.  Once again gaining more respect for people that do it right.