AcesLow's 1973 Morris Pick up

Started by AcesLow, April 05, 2011, 02:36:36 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

AcesLow

As with 94touring, I myself will be restoring my Pick-up

Pics and Details to come

94touring

Cool man can't wait to see it.  I saw you ordered those floors. 

AcesLow

Yes 94touring I ordered the floors. Looking closer I may need to order the sills as well. There seems to be a nice build up of bondo throughout the sills...filling some nice holes. I made some progress last week. I'll post up some pics. Waiting on you to start  on floors so I can follow suit.


AcesLow


94touring


AcesLow


AcesLow

What does everyone think.  Where should I put reinforcement bars in the cab If I want to replace an entire side at once? Reason being is that i need to replace the sill metal behind the cross member. I was going to do it in quarters but  The cross member isn't really holding on to anything.

Aceslow

94touring

I am debating the same thing on mine when I replace each side.  I was figuring on just putting something where the x-member goes. 

AcesLow

I have to replace the outer sills too. You can see the black patch and then the rusty portion after. They did not replace the entire sill. Only part of it..  It will be tricky to put that whole panel in without removing the cross member. The floor behind the crossmember is in decent shape for me so I dont need to replace all of it. When are you getting going on your floors 94Touring? I need some help.

94touring

Not sure when I'll be tackling the floors, still have other random areas I'm working on.  Maybe what you should do is replace the outer sills and give yourelf a good foundation for when you cut the floor section out.  Since its not cutting out the whole floor I'm less worried about distoration and bracing, though every little bit helps.   

MEhinger

My opionion is to brace the door opening, specifically so the body doesn't settle and spread the door opening. If you are leaving the lower part of the door frame, the step piece, and it is in good shape, this will accomplish the same thing.

AcesLow

I left an inch in the floor to lap joint over and I think I am just going to lap joint over the tabs on the cross member(leaving a layer of old floor underneath the cross member) Should still be strong enough I would imagine. They did this on the passenger side of the the truck to repair it. I have replacement outer sills now too so they will be done after the floor is finished.. I'll do the floor in four sections as the back is no where near as bad as the front.

AcesLow

Still contemplating if I want to cut out the whole floor and replace it a full side at a time.If the door step is in good condition do you think I could get away with cutting the lower sill out and replacing the floor and not having any warpage?

MEhinger

Again, just my opinion, but don't leave any of the old floor under the cross member. That is just asking for trouble later.

If yor door step is good it should hold the door opening without having to brace it.

The floor halves come with the inner sill. The inner sill has to go behind the cross member. So you have to trim the sill and somehow make it go around the ends of the cross member and that can get messy to weld. You might consider drilling out the spot welds and removing the cross member. It makes fitting the floor half a lot easier. Consider what you have to do to get the floor in with the cross member in place. You have to push it up in and move it forwarrd enough to get the back side over what is left of the lip on the heel board. 

AcesLow

With the floor and crossmember out how do you suggest to support the body of the truck?

AcesLow

#15
Not too much has happened in the past few months. I replaced the driver side floor. It looks ok I think. If I have the funds next year I going to spend the money and buy a full floor replacement

94touring

Hey looks good from here.  Seam seal any ugly welds you think you have and won't be able to tell the difference. 

AcesLow

#17
What is this panel called that I have my finger on? I was trying to find out if I can get a replacement for it..

I started drilling out the spot welds for the heel board replacement(all 43 of them just along the top)

I order another full floor length for the driver side as the back is way worse than I originally thought.  As you can also see. it looks like the rear driver side wheel well needs to be patched or replaced...


AcesLow

Inner Sill stiffener.... Found it online. Now to find a decent place to get those panels...

94touring

Email David at gbcarparts, i'm sure he can get a good deal on that inner stiffener.  You could probably fab something up pretty easily for it too, as its not going to be seen. 

AcesLow

I emailed David.. I also emailed somerford mini. 5 panels and the shipping was only 100Bucks from the UK. I know I am going to get stung on the duty but, not too bad..

Nicholasupton

I would bite the bullet and but a complete floor, extension panel, subframe mount panel, and bed floor risers, and just replace the entire lower section. It will save you hours in patching and have better results.

AcesLow

Nicholas.  I would order the whole floor but the shipping on that is absolutely crazy!!!

I already have the full left and right floor as well as the cross member,heel board and outer sills...

With the inner stiffener panels coming and the both wheel wells. I Should be covered..

Nicholasupton

I guess I am spoiled as I just go into 7ent and buy my panels load them in the truck and go home. (no shipping)

AcesLow

It has been a while since I posted.

Not much progress. Waiting for the huge order from Somerford mini. Should be here mid February.