rebuilding my son's 1962 Mini

Started by MEhinger, July 21, 2010, 12:41:23 PM

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MD-IN-UK

 :-\ Wow, that looks better then the top side of so many cars these days.
THE BITTERNESS OF POOR QUALITY REMAINS LONG AFTER THE SWEETNESS OF LOW PRICE IS FORGOTTEN

joltfreak

Quote from: MD-IN-UK on August 04, 2010, 12:55:50 PM
:-\ Wow, that looks better then the top side of so many cars these days.
+1
check out the official website for updates!!!!! 


MEhinger

Finally masked and ready or paint



After the sealer coat



Base coat



clear coat




MEhinger

The top will be white. Assembly can start.


94touring

Beautiful!!  Still admiring the color choice too. 

MD-IN-UK

My geuss is you weren't too worried about overspray on all the other stuff in the garage?

Looking good so far. Is sanding and buffing going to be the next phase? Looks like your going to have yourself a real show stopper on your hands.  4.gif
THE BITTERNESS OF POOR QUALITY REMAINS LONG AFTER THE SWEETNESS OF LOW PRICE IS FORGOTTEN

joltfreak

check out the official website for updates!!!!! 


MEhinger

#32
One more picture.



I am not sure how  much buffing it will need. I am sure it could be improved by buffing but not sure how much. There is a little texture where I am still learning how much paint I can put on before it runs off but it has settled in quite well. And in spite of what it looks like in the garage, I don't get much dust. I water down the floor before I start.

As I have said, this is the first car I have done in 12 years. It has me pumped to move on the the next ones. I need to hone my MIG skills.

94touring

If there are minor dust bumps and orange peel, I use 2000 grit wet paper and then work my way down with buffing compound.  Comes out to perfection.


MEhinger

Progress is slow but steady. The rear subframe is rebuilt and installed and the front is in progress.




94touring

What did you end up painting the subby and other parts with?

MEhinger

Rear subframe is with POR-15. Parts are generally with black BC/CC. I am having the front professionally blasted and I will use BC/CC. I know the paint is expensive (boy do I know it) but I want to try the BC/CC to see how durable it really is. I probably won't do that on the next one.

joltfreak

check out the official website for updates!!!!! 


MEhinger

I haven't posted in a while but work is progressing. It may not look like much. I have used mostly new nuts and bolts. Everything is targeting the Mini 51 so I better get busy on the motor.







I am using a new gasket for the rear window. It is one opiece but it is too long and I have to cut it. Does anyone have any words of wisdom about making the cut so it doesn't wind up too short with a gap?

MD-IN-UK

If you have never installed this type of glass before, consult an old school glass technician. The rubber will appear to be too large for the glass. It go's into the opening first, then the glass go's into the rubber. If you cut it at all, you'll be sorry.

Be sure to get the molding insertion tool for the chrome locking strip as well, as you'll never get that installed without one.

THE BITTERNESS OF POOR QUALITY REMAINS LONG AFTER THE SWEETNESS OF LOW PRICE IS FORGOTTEN

94touring

Like MD said, put the rubber in first and then the glass.  I believe some are universal for front and back, and if I'm not mistaken the back is not as long?  You could test fit on the glass to get the proper length and leave some extra length as one method to ensure you don't come up short.  I use dish soap to lubricate the glass when inserting and carefully go around the edges with a flat head to get the rubber lip over the glass.  Take your time and don't stress the glass too much.  I also have found using a small bead of silicon both on the window frame lip and inner rubber groove where the glass sits will prevent water finding its way in later.  Regarding the filet tool for the chrome strip, I never have had luck with that.  I bought one to use and all it did was bend and break on me.  I suffer and use a small flat head and work it in slowly and painfully while protecting the paint with a rag in case I slip with the screw driver.  I need to find a better fillet tool!

MD-IN-UK

I purchased my "fillet" tool from Snap On. It has a head on it that will accomadate 4 sizes of locking strip. Don't be fooled and think that you can get away without the chrome strip either, as some guys have in the past. The glass may seem to be snug enough without it, but it isn't. Once that strip go's in, you can see and feel the differance.
THE BITTERNESS OF POOR QUALITY REMAINS LONG AFTER THE SWEETNESS OF LOW PRICE IS FORGOTTEN

94touring

Sounds like my next purchase will be from snap on.

azbornmini

Here's a shot of me installing lock strip in Simon's Mini.  This tool is Mini specific, non interchangeable head.  Must be at least 25 yrs. old.


macmanron

Can't wait to see it at the Mini51.  Looking forward to see all the people I got to meet! I'm going to make it a point to meet more people this time!!!
1966 Austin Cooper S,1965 Morris Mini Minor Traveller, 1965 Triumph TR4A, 1965 Triumph Spitfire(project)

MEhinger

A lot of progress but not too much that is visible. The body, suspension and interior are almost back together. I've gone a bit crazy with using new nuts, bolts and screws almost everywhere. I hope to reassemble the engine this weekend and set it in. I hope to have some more pictures soon.

MEhinger

Pictures from the first time it sat on its wheels. Since then, the windscreen is in, the wiring is in but need to be hooked up, and most of the interior is back in. Build of the motor is in progress.




94touring

Lookin good  4.gif  Any problems with getting the glass in and the rubber?

MEhinger

No problem with the windows. I've actually done it many times. This time I was a little worried because I had to trim the length of the rear window rubber. I hope to get the engine together, back in and running this weekend.