White Japanese Spec Suspension Rebuild

[MPlayle]

Sounds like Dan may need to go one size smaller that his current and Brad (Willie_B) needs to go one size larger.

Here is the 4.2" listed in stock at Mini Spares:
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/Water/CAM116.aspx?0703&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/water%20pump%20pulley.aspx|Back%20to%20search

I have a spare but need to measure it to see which one it is.

[Jimini II]

This one has a thick rubber shroud between the radiator and the inner fender that was attached with the same 4 bolts that hold the shroud, it was so stiff I could not get enough clearance to get the radiator out. I'm debating whether to put it back in again since I'll be using an aluminum radiator and it won't have A/C. There also is an electric fan in this fender and I'm debating removing it too.....my car with it's alloy rad takes a pretty hot day and a long run on the highway to get to the middle of the temp gauge, I can't see the need for the electric fan.

I did buy a switch though, so I could just wire up it for safety's sake.

Once I got all those hoses off I had room to get my hand and a ratchet wrench in and take out the bolts on the back side to release the shroud and the rubber, but putting it all back will be a chore!

All the Jap spec Minis came with the big rubber boot to remove the hot air from the engine bay and help the electric fan draw hot air out also.
As you have removed the a/c you should not need the rubber boot but I would leave the electric fan in place.
I have owned several spi a/c Minis running stock and aluminum radiators and in the Summer the fan will kick in when in traffic.

[MiniDave]

Well, I was hoping not to have to take the front end completely apart, but events conspired against me....first the inner CV came out of it's socket and would not go back in, which meant I was going to have to at least remove the boot - but then I found the boot was torn too, which means I'll be not only removing the hub but also stripping the axle down so I can replace the inner boot. I also noticed the brake hoses to the front calipers look very tired, so I'll be replacing them too, which means flushing the brake system.

It seems like you can never just do a single job...... ::)


Edit: Good news - I have a full set of boot kits in stock so I won't be held up waiting for them

[Jimini II]

I hope that CV comes off easy it seems some of them can be a pita others seem to drop off with the first tap of the hammer.

[MiniDave]

I have a 20 ton press, it will come off!   ;D

[MiniDave]

As it turns out, I did have to use the press to get the axle out of the hub, but it really didn't take any pressure and it came right out - I just hate beating on them and messing up the end of the axle and threads. I do have a die to fix the axle threads tho, just in case.

Once apart I could not see how to remove the inner CV, it seems like it had some sort of metal cap over the end of the axle and it did not want to pry off. So I popped the outer CV off, took off the outer boot and slid the inner all the way down the axle again. Sounds easier than it was!

Once it was all cleaned  and lubed it went back together exactly as it should.

The left side is now all done, although I haven't decided whether to do the brake hoses. They don't look bad, but they may be original....and while I have it accessible......the problem is the what ifs - what if the bleed nipple breaks off in the caliper, what if the brake line is rusted together and the end rounds off and so on......

I'll probably go ahead and change out the hose, now is the time with the radiator out of the way....I also got plenty of new clamps - it takes 5 for the heater hoses, and 4 more for the main radiator hoses.

[Jimini II]

Looking good.
Not to jinx you Dave but i have never had that many issues when taking a Jap spec Mini apart when compared to working on the rusty UK ones, go for it at least the radiator side is wide open.

[G67mcs]

 A little project creep going on Dave. While you've got it apart might as well replace those brake hoses, etc.. Great job though on everything!

[MiniDave]

Well, the good news is the hose change out went along with no drama, just as Malcolm thought it would.

Now I can go ahead and install the new aluminum radiator and all the new hoses, then the left side will be all buttoned up and I can head over to the right side and get started on it. Right side should go considerably quicker as I don't have to disassemble the entire car to get to it!   ;D

[MiniDave]

I hope some of you eagle eyes noticed the tie bar bolt is in correctly!   62.gif

[MiniDave]

Radiator is in and all buttoned up, I need to split the 998 transmission off the engine and get it crated so it can ship next week.....

Then back on the suspension job - starting on the right side front, then rear, and leaving the gas tank conundrum for last. Anyone successfully just move the tank enough to reach behind and get the top shock nuts off without having to drain and remove the tank?

[94touring]

If there's enough fuel line you can move the tank around without draining it. 

[MiniDave]

Yeah, haven't looked at the EFI lines to see if there's enough flex in them...really don't want to drain the tank but today is the day if I'm going to do that - it will be almost 60* later this afternoon and I can have the door open to clear out the fumes.

Guess I'll have to revise my plan and do the left rear next.....

Wonder how much gas is in the tank? Battery is disconnected.

[94touring]

I'd think running the SPI fuel pump into a gas can would make short work of it.

[MPlayle]

Back when I did the carb conversion and pulled the SPI tank for installing a regular tank, I found most of the SPI fuale lines at the tank were actually a rigid plastic type of line formed to fit the area.

Check it carefully as I recall it being a bit of a puzzle in there with the feed and return lines.

[MiniDave]

Yes, there are a bunch of vapor lines and such that go into the top of the tank and are fairly unobtanium.....I'll need to be very careful when I move it.

Today I got the other side upper arm, ball joint and and new cone installed - it's a bitch kitty on an automatic due to the size and placement of the motor mount on that side, and the size of the cover for the torque converter. The bearings on that side were done too, so it was time to replace them before the front end started squeaking and getting all wonky. The hard part was aligning the shaft to go into the upper arm, especially working alone. Took a while but I got 'er done!

Later I'll replace the tie bar, lower control arm and bushings and the brake hose on that side. With that done I can reinstall the ECU and it's bracket and it will be that much closer to running. I'm still waiting for the new correct oil filter, gasket, o-ring and the new valve cover.

[Jimini II]

Is the bump stop separating in the last pic or is it just a shadow?

Pretty sure there is enough flex on the fuel tank lines to move the tank over depending on how flexible the neck seal is. I used an air ratchet on the shock on the last one I did as there was not much room to move a ratchet around but a 1/4" ratchet would work as well after it is loosened up.
You can see the fuel level easily with a flashlight down the neck.

[MiniDave]

I'll check that bump stop, but I think it's still attached.

I have an air ratchet too.....

[MiniDave]

Onward and upward!

The front end is all done, the only thing left is to bleed the brakes and add coolant. I have the alignment close enough to drive it to the alignment shop but since we got a half inch of ice covered with 6 inches of snow yesterday I'm going to wait at least till the roads have dried up before I take it over there.

I got the easy side of the rears done, and I managed to get the fuel tank slid out of the way enough to snake my arm in under and over and reach the nuts on the top of the left rear shock. However......getting the tank back in place is proving to be a challenge. I'm probably going to have to remove the deck lid so I can get in a better position to push it back where it belongs.

I did go ahead and pull the rear drums to check the brakes, but everything looks good there, so all I had to do was adjust them one click and they're ready to go. I will need to bleed them of course....

Closer and closer to being done.....

[MiniDave]

Gas tank is back in - I had to remove the deck lid to get where I could maneuver it back into place, I got it close but just could not get it that last little bit. Once the deck lid was off I could get in place and shift it around, then it slid right in. Of course all the studs came out of the deck lid hinges so I had to clean them all up on the wire wheel before I could put them back. PITA.

But it's in, the brakes are bled, wheels are back on and it's ready to drive over to the alignment shop next week sometime. It's still sitting high because it hasn't rolled at all...it should drop a bit more when it does but these always sit really high at first. within a few miles they settle in some then it takes a few hundred before they drop much more and you have to adjust them.

I know it looks funny to us sitting up that high, but if you look at pics of the cars as they came off the assembly line, that's how they all looked. The sump guard is still off till I get it running and see if it's leaking oil from anywhere. I think the culprit last time was the oil filter cannister o-ring. People think it's too hard to change them or they don't know how or they double it up,....anyway you cut it if you don't do it right they leak.

[BruceK]

Does the alignment change significantly when the cones begin to settle in and compress?

[94touring]

Camber would increase to the negative as it lowers for sure.

[BruceK]

So do you have to compensate for that in the alignment settings with the new cones?  Or does it not change enough to matter?

[94touring]

Well if it was already set to a big value then it would matter. But assuming it's stock arms and probably 0 or slightly positive as it is, it won't matter.

[BruceK]

Good to know.  Thanks.