Austin America ADO16 on a 998 gearbox??

[knowell]

came across an Austin America ADO16 1275 engine problem is it has a remote  and from what i understand that won't fit on a later mini.

so my plan is to use my existing 998 A+ gearbox and clutch.  using guess-works I've determined my current engine is from a Metro A+

Metro  A+ 998 cc
Std. Ratio Rod Change gearbox with Pot Joints
3.65:1 Final Drive 

here is the info for the ado 16

ADO16  A Series 1275 cc
Std. Ratio Remote control gearbox, 4 synchro'
3.44:1 final drive


Hoping someone can give some insight as to what will be needing to mate ADO16 on the 998 a+ gearbox????



done a little digging and sounds like ill just need a primary gear and drill a breather into the transfer case.

[MiniDave]

You don't have to drill a breather into the trans case, but it's helpful especially if the engine doesn't have a breather on the timing cover or tappet chest covers - assuming it has those.

And yes, I think all you need is the correct primary gear - but give John at Guessworks a tickle - he can sort it out for you for sure.

But I would plan on changing that final drive ratio unless your planning a screaming track car......or drag racer/hillclimb car etc.

[knowell]

thanks for the info. yes, i plan to change to a 3.44 once i get a chance to verify what I have currently. My only other concern is the Idler and switching over to a verto. 1275 is a pre-verto. will there be any issues switching over??

[MPlayle]

The idler gear bearing sizes may also be different.  There are adapter bearings available.  I had to go that route when I did the white Moke.

On the Moke, I went with a GuessWorks "hybrid" transmission (early style case with later gear set).  The transmission used the small idler bearing.  The 998 was an A+ and its flywheel housing used the large idler bearing.  I had to install the adapter bearing in the flywheel housing and use the early style (small shaft) idler gear.

[MiniDave]

Changing to the Verto clutch means you'll need a few things....complete flywheel assembly (good time to buy a lightened flywheel - Dan has one to sell, brandy new) complete clutch assembly, clutch arm, support bracket and spacers, slave cylinder and hose and the part the release bearing fits onto. It also uses a different bolt in the end of the crank....oh, and a different starter (number of flywheel teeth is different from pre-Verto) The starter uses a little different wiring set up as it doesn't use a starter relay, just the solenoid on the starter for all the connections.

I can't remember if the transmissions on the AA were 3 or 4 synchro, but I definitely would prefer the rod change gearbox both for it's much better linkage and the pot joints.

[BruceK]

I can't remember if the transmissions on the AA were 3 or 4 synchro, but I definitely would prefer the rod change gearbox both for it's much better linkage and the pot joints.

My first Mini had an Austin America drivetrain, and I can tell you it was full synchro on all forward gears.

[MiniDave]

What about the comment about them not fitting in later Minis? First I've heard of that?

I have one in my shop that's no synchro in first, must be a really early box?

[MPlayle]

I seem to recall it is the length of the remote shift housing that is the issue.  The ADO-16 used a longer remote housing than the remote housing of the Minis.

It is also my understanding, the mounting of the remote housing to the transmission is different between the two.  I do not know if the two types of remote shift housings are interchangeable.

Thinking a bit more about the issues raised in this discussion: the idler gear bearings should not be an issue if using the 998's flywheel housing and transmission as both would be from the same generation.  The only concern would be if the crank journals of the earlier 1275 would hit anything in the 998's transmission.  The folks at GuessWorks might know the answer to that.

Then the final drive ratio becomes the only other thing to address.  I agree with Dave's recommendation to change from the 3.65:1 of the current 998 to something better when paired with the 1275.  (Either the 3.44:1 from the ADO-16 trans or something else.  I have a 3.1:1 set sitting "spare".)

[MiniDave]

The cases are the same, so there should be no crank interference.....

As for it being longer, they do have a different mounting to the trans and no they will not interchange with the Mini style remote gearbox. But I've never compared the overall length.....

[Jimini II]

The cases are the same, so there should be no crank interference.....

As for it being longer, they do have a different mounting to the trans and no they will not interchange with the Mini style remote gearbox. But I've never compared the overall length.....

I had a 1980 van (rod change originally) that someone had previously converted to a 1098 engine with a remote (i am guessing it was done in the UK) and it worked fine.
As Dave said though for ease of service and a better gear change a rod change is the best set up.
As knowell will have both lumps on the ground it would be easy to measure things before he starts.