1974 Mini Marcos - tidying up

Started by MPlayle, May 25, 2019, 02:13:33 PM

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MiniDave

#50
Nah, plenty of time still - it's not till Oct 9th-13th......I hope you can make it. I wasn't planning to go but our plans for the F1 event have changed so I'm looking into it now. I won't register till probably a few weeks before the event. My plan is to take the Innocenti, but I still have a lot to do before I can consider that. If not, I'll take the racing green.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Jimini II

I sold my double axle Trailex aluminum trailer a while ago and have been using my tow dolly and flat towing the Moke with a Harbour Freight tow bar.
As my 4x8 trailer is gone too i am looking at aluminum trailers with a full floor that can do double duty when needed to (Home Depot/Lowes etc) and the Aluma tilt 78x12 with no ramps or electric over hydraulics to mess with seems like a decent set up starting at around $3000.
Just trying to thin the heard i had 5 trailers here at one time but i will be keeping the enclosed 6x12 as it is handy for storage.

MiniDave

#52
Do all the aluma tilts have the loading ramp that folds up? Doesn't that add a lot of drag? my little 5' X 8' trailer has a mesh loading ramp and it adds a lot of drag.

I like the idea of an aluminum trailer, they've got to be lighter than a steel, and since our cars are so light strength shouldn't be an issue.

I flat tow my cars with no issues. If it were a show car I might want it in an enclosed trailer, but since they're not I'm good with just flat towing.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Jimini II

Quote from: MiniDave on July 22, 2019, 11:59:46 AM
Do all the aluma tilts have the loading ramp that folds up? Doesn't that add a lot of drag? my little 5' X 8' trailer has a mesh loading ramp and it adds a lot of drag.

I like the idea of an aluminum trailer, they've got to be lighter than a steel, and since our cars are so light strength shouldn't be an issue.

I flat tow my cars with no issues. If it were a show car I might want it in an enclosed trailer, but since they're not I'm good with just flat towing.

No on the tilt ones the whole bed drops to the ground no ramps or ramp gate i think a 15 degree or so load angle, you just drive on and the hydraulics and gas strut do the rest lowering it slowly.
The ones with the ramp have the ramp that folds in half to reduce the drag i guess.
They use a single hydraulic piston that slows the movement up and down and a gas strut to hold it up, quite simple and it works good.
Another plus is no rust or painting and they only weigh around 700lbs.
There are options you can buy but like most trailer places you can find them a lot cheaper elsewhere.
One option i would like is detachable fenders just in case i needed them to at any time.
My Trailex had 13 inch tires and the Mini doors cleared the fenders but most trailers i have looked at the fenders are in the way, i am not sure why we don't use the smaller pontoon trailer type fat tires over here like they do in Europe it would save a lot of hassle.
Howard Collins/scargo on here has an Aluma and he likes it.

MPlayle

I've spent all afternoon in the front end of the Marcos today.

I noticed that I was still getting some rubbing sounds on full lock left turns - such as pulling into the garage.  It turns out the outer leading edge of the right front tire was rubbing the front edge of the wheel well.

I had some body shims left over from another mini long ago.  They came in handy today.  It helped some, but I also discovered the previous owner had the hi-los set all the way down - maximum lowered.  I set about working on raising the fronts to try to eliminate the rubbing.  I am almost there.  Some more adjusting tomorrow and also raising the rears.  Then I will take it back and get the alignment redone - got it as a "lifetime" alignment when I had it done Saturday. 

I will also need to replace the steering rack ends as their rubber dust caps are shot.  That will mean a third round of alignment when I get those in.

On the trailer subject: due to the way the Marcos body attaches to the front subframe and the nose overhang, a tow bar is out.  A tow dolly "might" work, but the Mini Marcos body tub tends to have lower ground clearance and the dolly tails may be more likely to hit the bottom of the Marcos.

My current trailer fit most Minis fine.  The MK-4 Mini Marcos floor pan was supposedly based on the Mini Van floor and thus has both the LWB and the front nose overhang that makes it just a bit too long for my Kendon folding trailer.

The Kendon trailer weighs 510 pounds (without the spare) and is a steel mesh deck.  I have a set of longer ramps I used with the Moke I will include for anyone on this forum that buys the trailer.


jedduh01

Adding to the trailer talk!

   Ive been too watching Aluminum trailers locally... Alum for the light weight and easy maneuverability.
   
This Triton  12 x 6 Popped up with foldup gate (i at first wasn't sold on a gate and wanted traditonal ramps  but now im sold)
   It was for sale as a used trailer at a Power sports dealer.

   2800$ Out the door taxes tags and title...

Empty it weighs just at 550# and does jockey around  Loaded  With car Its amazing to tow with.   I have my hitch set Slightly high = which helps the loading angle..  A Lotus i towed did grab the trans housing on the edge, but havnt had any issues with mini's on and off.   

I also modified the plastic fenders with easy on and off knobs. to remove the fender so you have a SLIGHT bit more door access to get in and out of (mk 1 Sliding windows dont help.

Keep eyes out at your local ATV sellers,.,, they had 2 new ones available = and kind of regularly take in on trade , sales guy said everyone that works there keeps them too.    A full size side by side ATV weighs just as much as a mini...    This trailer is rated for 3000 Lbs axle = I MIGHT try an MGB on it one day if needed. ( i would consider that the limit)


MiniDave

That's really nice, looks like there are D rings in the floor? I don't have anywhere to keep one if I did buy it, plus too and also my tow vehicle is rated for 1500lbs, that's why I flat tow my cars.

I could easily haul one of these with my Audi, but then the gas mileage would go from terrible to Exxon Valdez needed terrible!  ;D
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Scargo

#57
I am extremely pleased with my Aluma tilt trailer. Perfect size for a Mini and extremely easy to
load, unload and tow.

It's just too bad I can't properly load a photo.

MPlayle

#58
I've been kind of slow in the latest progress, so here is a catch-up report.

I took it for a professional alignment.  The older tech that did a great job on the Moke was no longer there.  The guys that attempted it did an "ok" job - they got close to the desired settings.  On driving it home, I found it had a new rubbing spot when turning hard left to pull into my garage: the outer leading edge of the tire was hitting the front lip of the wheel arch.

I added some body shims I had left over from another long ago Mini project.  I also found the suspension lowered as far as it would go (front and rear), so I raised it a bunch.  I took it back for another go at the alignment (got the "lifetime" alignment the first time as a precaution.)  They still struggled to get close to the desired numbers, but they did keep it from going back to rubbing.  I will try to figure out a way to attach my "home" kit.  The kit attaches to the wheel by magnets.  Unfortunately, my center caps are plastic and the wheels non-magnetic alloy.  The kit tries to cling to the lug nuts, putting it off-center.  Also nee to make an access hole to get to the steering rack centering plug.

I also tackled some upgrades to the cooling system (engine and people).  I added a metal fan shroud to the radiator's electric fan, changed the water pump pulley and made a small nose panel cover for the engine side.  I added interior fans for the people side.

In the pictures below, I show the fan shroud with the new nose panel cover off.  You can see how the nose panel is notched forward with a visible cross-member.  That is normally covered by the factory nose panel cover (shown in the last picture).  Leaving off the factory nose panel cover will open a gap between the nose panel and the bottom of the bonnet for more air to enter the engine bay (and let out hot air in stop-n-go traffic).  That would leave the notch exposed, so I made the small panel cover to "hide" the notch when leaving the factory cover off for the summer.  I also drilled a series of approximately 1/2" holes in the front apron below the grill and in alignment with the radiator to let more "fresh" air reach the front of the radiator.




MPlayle

A follow-up to the cooling system "mods":  I had the Marcos out for a short drive to go have Dim-Sum for lunch.  The drive over through normal streets went fine.  The temp gauge got up to 75*C and held there.  That is about expected as the thermostat is a 160*F rated unit.  The electric fan also appears to be set to come on at that temp.  I am not sure if I can adjust that.

The run home, I took it out on the highway and ran it up to about 70 - 75 mph (rough "guessing" as I measured the speedometer to be about 20% low versus gps a while back).  It did creep up to about 80*C on the highway depending on speed and clear airflow, but did not climb more until back to slow speed pulling into my apartment parking area and garage, then it crept up to 85*C.

This is in outside temperature of 95*F+.

I do get some "run-on" when turning off the car in the heat.  I will look into the timing/tuning next.  Time for me to learn to tune dual carbs.




MiniDave

#60
The first thing you have to do - and the one that most people forget - is to disconnect (loosen) the linkage between the two carbs. You set them independently and then tie them back together, otherwise you're wasting your time.

Secondly, before you attempt to do any carb adjustments, first make sure timing and valve adjustments are correct. Carbs are the last thing you do in any tune up. Points, plugs, condenser, rotor, cap, wires and valve adjustments first, then carbs....do you have a Unisyn or the like?

If you already know all this consider it a reminder for those who don't and carry on  77.gif
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

I basically knew the steps.  I did not remember about disconnecting the carbs from one another.  I do not have any form of synchronizing tool.  I need to get one.

I knew to check timing and such first with the carbs being last.  It has an electronic points-replacement system installed.  I have already checked the cap and rotor and they are good.

I know to check the valves when the engine is cold.  I have a basic timing light and a diagnostic tachometer.

tmsmini

Brian is getting his on the road as well out west. I saw he drove it to work or on errands as well.

I have a Unisyn I can loan and send you, but hopefully someone closer has something. I am pretty sure it would fit in the small flat rate USPS box.
Terry

MiniDave

#63
Yeah, the reason you disconnect them is so you can set the throttle openings the same, you don't want one open further than the other and drawing more air and more fuel. If that's the case you'll never get them set right. Some people just use a length of tubing stuck in the mouth of the carb, other end held up to their ear and listen for the difference in the sound of the hiss of air, but I was never sure I had the difference accurately set this way - I always preferred a graphic indication of how much air was flowing thru each one. Far more accurate.

Once you get the air equal, then you set the mixture to best run, you may have to change the idle speed as you get the mix set, so then you have to make sure you didn't close one down more than the other. The good news is that once you get them set right, they generally never go "out of tune".

I have a Unisyn also, but I would need it back fairly quickly as I'm not far from putting the engine in the Inno. That's why I use the single HIF44 on the test stand, no trying to balance carbs. Bruce may have one too, but the chances of him being able to find it in the middle of a move are slim!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

Many years ago (quite a while before I got into Minis) I had a UniSyn tool for when I was into old VWs.  Somewhere over the years, I gave it away to someone that needed one and I did not think I would need it again.  This is my first dual-carb'd Mini in around 25 years of the Mini hobby.


MPlayle

I still have not ordered the UniSyn. I keep forgetting to hunt one down.

I had the Marcos out for some errands the other day and had something unusual happen.  The tachometer starting acting up in a manner I have not seen before.

When I first started the car, the tachometer responded as normal.  I drove out onto the highway and was at speed for about 15 minutes, then got off the highway to go through a neighborhood to my destination.  When I reached a stop light, the tachometer would not drop below 3K rpm.  The engine speed had actually dropped to normal idle (about 900 - 1000 rpm), but the tachometer registered 3K.  Blipping the throttle would make the tachometer jump up from the 3K mark the same as if that were the 1K mark.

After letting the car sit for a bit at my destination, it returned to normal operation at the start of my drive home, but acted up again as I reached traffic lights near home.  Then it went back to normal again as I pulled into my apartment parking area and into the garage.

I have no idea what the tachometer originally came from.  I think it is a Smiths and is labeled as for a 4 cylinder.

I do know there is an electronic "points replacement" module in the distributor.  I don't think it is a Pertronix brand, but something similar.

Any thoughts on how to diagnose?


MiniDave

You need a new tach......I had a brand new one go south on Deighton's car - it went the other way - read 0 till you revv'd it then it read as if it was set for a V-8. Brandy new - really pissed me off.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

I had one new out of the box act screwy like that!  Directly in the trash.

MPlayle

I guess I will look at replacing the tachometer and speedometer after all.

I had thought about it when I determined the speedometer read 20% low and decided to just use my Garmin GPS instead.

I had my eye on a set from the same place I got the electronic speedometer for the Moke.  I will probably go that route.

Jimini II

Remove it and try it on another 4 cylinder car with points. I am not sure which tachometer you have but i have heard some older tach's do not work well with electronic ignitions, to be fair though in my experience for the most part they usually work or fail.

MPlayle

I have not yet driven the car a lot since getting it in May, but the Tachometer had worked fine before this last outing.

I do not have access to another 4 cylinder car with points to try that experiment.  The tachometer looks the same as one from a MGB or MG Midget.

As stated earlier, I had toyed with the idea of replacing at least the speedometer to something I can calibrate to be more accurate than 20% low all the time.  As such, I had also considered replacing them both in order to have a matched pair of new main gauges.

I'll look into it after the car show next weekend (Sept 27-29).


MPlayle

I did another local car show this past Saturday.  Drove the Marcos to the show and back home in the 95* heat.  It ran well.  The car's temperature held in the range where expected.

Driving at 60-65 seemed okay - a bit sensitive to steering.  Trying to run 70 in any sort of highway curve and it would be squirrelly and unsettling.  It was also being very sensitive to road surface variations, so I held it to the 60-65 range.

I used my Garmin GPS as a speedometer and confirmed the car's speedometer read 20% low throughout the range.

The shop I was taking it to (lifetime alignment) was always struggling to get anywhere with making adjustments.  To get an idea of what to look for in diagnosing why it was twitchy on the highway, I read up on understanding how to do alignments.  I now know that the "techs" at that shop were doing things backward.  They could not have had their machine registering the wheels correctly as they were making caster and camber adjustments backward.

Today I spent some time in the garage with it getting things loosened for checking the alignment myself.  It was a struggle, but I did get all the locking nuts released.  I also set up my tow plates and a string box to get some references.  I know the left front wheel is pointing dead straight and has -0.75* camber.  I did not measure the left side caster, nor the right side camber or caster.  The toe plates are 24" long and I have them centered on the hub.  They show 1.125" toe in!  All of it is on the right wheel. 

Wednesday will be the next session with it.  I plan on fixing the toe setting of the right front wheel first, then checking the caster and camber on each front wheel before making a final toe adjustment.


MiniDave

#72
The proper sequence is to set the caster, then camber, then toe last as each of the other two will affect the toe. Likewise, changing the caster will change the camber.....sometimes you go back and forth with C&C several times till you get it right, then set toe.

In the front I use:
3* caster
1/2* neg camber
1/16" toe out each side

However I don't know how much adjustment you have without seeing the suspension you're running. Could be all you can do is toe.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

The Mini Marcos came with fully adjustable front suspension.  All the nice heavy-duty versions.


MPlayle

Dave,

I reread your post to be sure I would do the right order come Wednesday and discovered another "error" the shop I took it to did.

They would do camber first, then caster, then toe.  They did not like going back and redoing either camber or caster when changing the second made a big difference in the first.  They also would "gorilla" loose the lock nuts for camber, adjust it, then "gorilla" tight the lock nuts and then move to camber and repeat the "gorilla" effort.  They also would not ensure the car and/or steering was held firmly, so the car and steering would shift a lot - changing numbers around as well.