Clubman 1275 GT!

Started by jedduh01, January 03, 2019, 02:24:39 PM

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jedduh01

Gang,   
    Will Share my experience with this new local car.   Fellow I met locally has a broker in UK, he buys  cars off Ebay, has them shipped on over to Charlotte for resell.     This is the 4th or 5th he imported in 2018...  I met this car at his place when he could never get it started...  Well NOW its with me for some tidying + needed repairs.. In the end i dont see how a car was sold 'not working' like this .. but more to come.    But i guess.. Once is sold+ on a ship It aint the sellers problem anymore!   In All its sort of 'Ricer racey , and ill get into why... a little better.  It Just delivered to my place to actually fix it up!

- There is no Igniton key... there is a Race style 'master switch on the floor by the seat.
- There is an assembly of switches were the normal switches hsould be.. One switch is ' RUn'  other is ' fuel"
  - there is a Single Push button starter...

I was called in for = no start = crank but no start... Quickly found no power to coil..
   jiggled enough wires under the dash + column= got ignition spark.

Wouldnt crank = Smelly old fuel (this car has been sitting)  = Clean fuel bowls + flush carbs

Crank = pop fire bang.  Squeals of belt!   miss aligned... Need to algin + tension Belt perhaps needs a belt or alternator + fan)
   Skinny original Radiator .. wont work in NA Summer heat for sure! (Ebay Alum rad going in) probably waterpump too

Paint is bubbled under the Brake master Cyl.... Oh that hard line is wiggly = loose

Car LOOKS cool from 10 Ft = the body kit is well enough installed but looks like front lower Airdam got knocked and cracked on the 'ship'

Whn trying to crank.. it really has no umph to crank ==   strange red power wire on battery == Oh its about 1/3rd the gauge a starter wire should be and it gets warm after cranking.. Will get a new starter wire.

The instructions for turning the car off is kill the switch and wait.. Umm What??  wait for the juice to stop flowing.. wait for the fuel to cut off?  it runs on for 15-20 seconds before power end.

Hope to get into it some soon (midget in the background needs motor re installed)
but will keep everyone posted on this 'project!  seems neat to see what some silly previous work was done .. Sort it out to be reliable.






jedduh01

Day 1
   
Strip out worthless Power wire for replacement.
  Wire was run thru back seat wall = under back seat= under seat shelf= under carpet to the 'floor' cutoff switch,
From the switch it goes to a 'stock' power wire Back thru the floor= to the starter power solenoid... More holes in the floors  wonder why these cars rot!

Agreed for a new alum radiator + alternator spacing off==  Strip all that out=  for re painting  the pulleys + shroud.  General cleanup.
  Fan was also on backwards.

Brake line = Master to booster was loose + leaking..
   Removed line + re flared the end= Seems to be a proper flare seat now... More bleeding to be done.
  I clearly need to find more 'red Zip ties.


Plan this weekend is to get to the pick yard and ive done this before.. pull a nice huge power wire from a later model car - I target Volvos.. Batteries in trunk=- Power wire runs all way thru interior to the engine bay =  HUGE wire + very durable!

Customer wants to keep the internal power switch = which is OK = will need to bracket + re mount for better acess.

Also pulled the heater down for better access  and over looking the  whole dash switch situation.. It looks like in the wiring mess they taped over same color wieres to identify different colors or activities.

One switch should be 'ignition on '  and also a signal  looks like to a relay that operates this dash push button for the starter solenoid.... Probably going to have to pull the dash to get into this to tidy it up..
All does patch into the basic original harness   as its all there.. just how and where will be the fun to sort out.

Hazard switch.. no rear isolation plate= all exposed terminals  + MESSY!




MiniDave

That's the same kind of mess I had with the 73 Mini I worked on for Deighton....wires going every which way, stuff wired direct to the battery with no fuses - many wires run thru holes in the body with no grommets, scotchlocks everywhere......why can't people just do it right?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

jedduh01

#3
Good progress over the weekend.

I have done this before but when needing a power wire   Main power cable.   Head straight to the Pick A Part yard.. I prefer to pull these from Volvo's .  Volvo Wagons specifically.  The  Battery is in the Trunk .  The main power distribution is in the engine bay == so with their power cables they run ALL the way thru the interior to the bay.  Under the carpet, but in total Each cable is about 15 Foot of nice THICK 4/0 Power and ground cable.  PLUS you get the Volvo factory battery clamps!     It is sort of a paint to get out of a Junkyard car= but with an  razor knife  Cut the carpet out of the way =  pull from car =  2 LONG Heavy Duty Power cables in hand.    53$ Total.

For this car= it had a master power switch in the compartment by the drivers  seat. I re did this operation similarly =   Battery cable , under the body = up thru the floor (new grommets) and to the master switch = then from there Up to the engine solenoid.  ALl the power.   Even re used the volvo End on the starter solenoid = Factory connections!     Soldered on 2 lugs for the master switch = Properly Power wired.

There's still a mess in the engine bay .. but that atleast got GOOD power to the starter + engine Cranks over! much better than before. Glad now I had the alternator out of the way + Radiator for better access.

Fan shroud is getting a sandblast + clean up! ( after i service my blaster) = Media Was getting weak.

Started sourcing wires under the dash. . I more so understand it now.  Except the igniton.
   The car at first wouldn't have any ignition power== Traced that to the plug that is still there from the factory ignition switch ( loose connections)  Now at least you turn on the car power = you get ignition power... BUT this is on 100% of the time..  The car is wired Ignition ON every time the Master switch is on.... There will be an adjustment to the dash switches to give an Ignition switch + fuel pump switch at least separately.  No One would be able to operate the car as is.. and will still be 'odd'

Luckily the turn signals work  = even though the Hazard Switch  had NO plugs isolating the terminals. All flashers worked fine.

I did hit the wipers= and noticed the Heater fan came on at the same time   That will be a joy to 'cross' identify.

More to adjust!   Paint and tidy! Drive soon enough!

Sweet battery tie down bracket ! Amirite?



MiniDave

#4
That battery bracket!  :-[

What you've done looks tidy and correct - good job!

I think I prefer the way they did it on Binky, isolation switch on the ground side - you can never short it out that way......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad