Clancy's Moke Restoration

Started by MiniDave, October 08, 2018, 09:10:58 AM

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MiniDave

#100
Looks like mine will work then....thanks guys!

I wonder if I bought the wrong valve...even tho this is the valve called for in the listing, the one for the later MKIII cars has a slightly shorter and lighter spring and is not adjustable - 21A1774 is what I bought, the other one is 21A2031. Sounds more like what I needed.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

jedduh01

Quote from: Willie_B on January 02, 2019, 10:09:42 AM
Jedduh, is your front bumper bent? Or is that the more areo style.

Its called 'patina of use' but yes= its bent... been yanked on..   Funny becasue it 'matches' nearly same to my other moke bumper..    Two cars = same 'bent' bumper.

jedduh01

Quote from: MiniDave on January 02, 2019, 10:30:22 PM
Looks like mine will work then....thanks guys!

I wonder if I bought the wrong valve...even tho this is the valve called for in the listing, the one for the later MKIII cars has a slightly shorter and lighter spring and is not adjustable - 21A1774 is what I bought, the other one is 21A2031. Sounds more like what I needed.....

Check closely too = the way you have mounted (vertical) will be a REALLY tight bend on the metal line to enter the Valve...

IMHO: Brake valve:

Check over your original one.. Ive seen some REALLY nasty ones clean up pretty easily. (blast the exterior or use electrolysis)  they are simple and should be restoreable. really they are just a ball and spring!

MiniDave

#103
And a couple of seals, right?

The old one has been sitting dry for 20 years or so, I'd bet the seals are perished. I'll have a look at it once it's in the car, but I think I'll leave the new one in it - it was fairly expensive (about $85) so Ima find a way to use it.

Willie B can you take a shot of where the hand brake cable goes thru the subframe, from the inside looking out would be easiest...thanks!

Mplayle, in your pic it looks like the body of the Moke does not meet the rear part of the subby except where it bolts on?

Edit: never mind, I see how it works now, the frame dips down in the middle, I have mine upside down to work on it.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniGene

What's the procedure for adjusting a rear bias valve?  In my head I'm thinking it would be:

1.  Find an empty parking lot with lots of room or a abandoned road.
2.  In a straight line, accelerate up to speed.
3.  Firmly apply the brakes.
4.  Adjust rear bias valve and repeat steps 1-3 until the rear wheels stop locking up on firm braking.

I don't know if this is the right way to do it, but I think it probably would be fun!

MPlayle

On my Moke, the hand brake was two cables: one running from the handle to each rear brake.  Perhaps the attached two pictures may help see the routing.


MiniDave

Quote from: MiniGene on January 03, 2019, 09:23:16 AM
What's the procedure for adjusting a rear bias valve?  In my head I'm thinking it would be:

1.  Find an empty parking lot with lots of room or a abandoned road.
2.  In a straight line, accelerate up to speed.
3.  Firmly apply the brakes.
4.  Adjust rear bias valve and repeat steps 1-3 until the rear wheels stop locking up on firm braking.

I don't know if this is the right way to do it, but I think it probably would be fun!


That's exactly how I would do it!  ;D 77.gif
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

Quote from: MPlayle on January 03, 2019, 10:00:03 AM
On my Moke, the hand brake was two cables: one running from the handle to each rear brake.  Perhaps the attached two pictures may help see the routing.

What I really need to see is where the cable passes thru the frame to the quadrant....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

jedduh01

Handbrake cables pass thru the same holes on all sub frames.   The hole below where the Trunion bolt comes thru.
   Will be the same as your late car as far as routing goes too.

Picture of different car = same vintage 66/67 sub frames and routing.  below

Brake line for moke comes from the rear fender and comes thru the crack between the sub-frame and body = bends into the valve.  I have see spirals installed to take up longer length of line.

Dont forget Mark Caldwells moke on Bring a trailer = 95+ Pictures of great detail and accuracy.

MiniDave

Yeah, I probably need to turn the subframe over so the radius arm will droop properly, but I can't seem to get those cable ends thru that hole, I'll look at it some more.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

Very front part of opening is where cable goes thru. I can see where it is a tight fit around end of arm. From the outside you see how it just slightly rubs.

MiniDave

Thanks for the pics, I figure when the weight of the car is on the suspension there is plenty of clearance, Clarance.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

The cables are fed from rear to front.  Feed the end that would go to the brake handle through the subframe from the outside with the spring end loose to start.  It will take a little bit of fidgeting to get it through the side flange of the subframe, but it will get through.  Then slip the cable into the quadrant and the channel at the center of the subframe.  Connect up the spring end and pull out the slack before any crimping at the quadrant or subframe center channels.

That is the procedure I used as my subframe came with the late model Saloon style cable arrangement and I had to retro-fit my old Moke cables.


MiniDave

Some more work completed, axles stripped, cleaned and painted, ready to put on the car when the rest of the pieces come back from the blasters. Since that will take another week or more it will give them time to cure out thoroughly...this is just good ol Rusty O'Leum paint, brushed on too. I think they came out pretty good actually. I had to use a screwdriver to dig out the old hardened grease from the splines......

I think that's the last bits I need to clean up before putting it all back together. I have new u-joints, front shocks and some other bits on the way too.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

A little more done.....both axles assembled - I checked to make sure I could pass the inner flange thru the opening in the subframe - it will go if you hold your mouth right and angle it up then down.

Found out today the rest of the parts won't be back from the powdercoaters for another week, plus my order at MiniSpares is being held up too waiting for one of the things I ordered to come in - on the 14th - so no joy there either.

So, more cleanup work in the meantime, I guess.

Clancy brought me down a Sprite gearbox to overhaul, it came out of a race car so it has straight cut close ratio gears, but it's been sitting a long time and looks a little rusty - won't know till I clean it up whether that's going to be a problem or not. I guess as a backup to get him thru a race or even a weekend it might be OK. He's going to use his old box for the 1st race of the year at Gingerman 1st weekend of April.....the one that pops out of both 2nd and 3rd!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#115
The last bits came in early from the powder coaters today, Clancy picked them up for me and I've already gotten the right side done. Good thing too as we have a hell of a winter storm bearing down on us....snow predictions just keep going up. First it was a light dusting, then 1-3", now they're calling for heavy snow Friday and maybe into Sat.

I'll try and get the other side done tonight, then tomorrow I can finish up the emergency brake cables on the rear subby. Sat Clancy will be in town for a couple of meetings and the plan is to load both into his truck and he'll take them up to his shop. When the shell comes back from the powdercoaters in the next month I'll go up to his place and install the engine in the front one, then both subframes in the car, that way we'll have a rolling shell. In the meantime he can install fuel lines and wiring and such. That also clears room up in my shop to get going on the Innocenti, since I now have all the parts here for it too.

I think from now on if I do a suspension job for someone I'm going to insist on Hilos, these things are a major PITA to do with stock trumpets!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#116
Both sides done last night, ready to go to Clancy's shop - BUT - we're under a "winter advisory", they don't know if we'll get 3 or 30" of snow tonight. It's not looking too good for Clancy to drive the 45 miles from his shop to mine to pick up these parts tomorrow....we'll see. Too bad the powder coaters didn't get the subs and the parts the same color, I like the lighter color on the suspension bits but I agree with Dan that for maximum value they need to be black..... one thing about powder coating, you have to watch where it goes as it's a lot thicker than paint. For example, the holes where the pins for the lower control arms go into the sub had to be carefully scraped out and that surface of the pin also had to be cleaned off as they would not fit into the holes. Likewise the holes for the upper control arm washers had to be completely cleaned out back to bare metal to get those to fit too. Also, when they blast the parts prior to coating it leaves a residue behind that must be cleaned out before trying to fit bearings and such....you can't just rinse it off, you have to use something like a wire wheel to get it all off, then clean in the solvent tank for best results. It also leaves an edge around holes in parts that has to be flatted off if something is going to fit snugly against it. Finally, every threaded hole has to have a tap run thru it both to clean out any coating that might have found it's way in but also to clean out blast debris left in the threads. However, I think the smooth, durable finish is worth the extra work.....

I still have to finish up the em. brakes on the rear subby. I'll do that today then gather all the remains from the strip down and he can haul them off with the subs...whenever that happens. Then I'll give the shop a good clean up and start back on the Inno at last.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

I just read that you may need to remove the long rod part of the hi-lo so the arm can droop the most.

MiniDave

I'm not sure what you mean there, this car doesn't have hilos.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Either my powder coater was more careful, or I got skimped on the coating.  I did just paint all the bits, but the subframes had no excess and all the holes fit just fine and the threaded areas were all protected.  I tapped them, but is seemed pointless cause the tap rotated by hand super easily. 

Looking really good.  Like the way you have it placed for assembly.  I had mine on 4 jackstands in it's normal orientation but it was hard to keep it level and not wobble around.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

I tried it that way first, but it didn't work for me either, so I tipped it up - which was fine till I got the right side assembly on, then I had to support it with the second set of stands or it wanted to roll over. I think the best way is to have a nice wood topped table like Dan has, it gets it to a good working height and the wood doesn't scuff the paint/powdercoating

I'll see how I get on with the black one for the Inno, but it does seem like the shiny coating is much thicker than the flat that I have on the Inno suspension bits.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#121
Clancy's Moke is making progress, it's at another shop across town getting holes patched and welded up. The front end looks great, he was able to straighten it beautifully. but the floor boards and such were swiss cheese. He's welded patches in some places but he's not going to make it like new, Clancy just doesn't have the budget for that right now, and this is going to be used strictly as a low speed pit car.


Later this month it will go to the powder coaters and get color....he's going to shoot the floors with bedliner (I don't know if that happens first or last -  don't know if bedliner will stand being in a 400* oven) and once it's home from the coaters, I'll install the two subframes - the engine's already in the front one - and start wiring it up. He's already got his wheels and tires sorted too. Once it's on it's wheels it will come back to my shop for final fettling, and we hope to have it ready for the first race in April at Grattan.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#122
Clancy is on the road for the SCCA till Mid April, in the meantime the Moke has been thru the powdercoaters (I haven't seen it yet) and is waiting for him.

I tried to order a wiring harness from Bull Motif, I also ordered the headlight harnesses but then found out from Michael Playle that they came with the harness, so I tried to cancel just those two parts (should have left them in the order, I could have used them on the Inno!) but they said they couldn't do that so I decided to just get them and the harness. I also had frustrations with their payment system, not taking any of my credit cards - but I managed to go ahead and paid via Paypal, only to find out they had cancelled my entire order....of course I didn't find this out till a week later when I sent them an email asking the status of my order.

So today I tried to reorder the harness, only to find out they were out of them. sighs

So, I found a place here in the US - British Wiring  http://www.britishwiring.com/default.asp who claim they have the same harness in stock - same part number and everything but of course.....mo money, mo money, mo money! I sent the new cost off to Clancy and he said go for it so hopefully I now have one on the way for sure! I should have a confirming email shortly.

Don't know what's up with Bull Motif, but their ordering system is a few generations behind state of the art.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

I've ordered from bulmotif a few times. They used a 3rd party payment system as I recall.  Otherwise I never had an issue.

MiniDave

Just got an email from British Wiring - harness is already shipped!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad