Bodge!

Started by BruceK, August 27, 2018, 05:37:26 PM

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MPlayle

That is not even the correct location for the regulator valve.  It should be over more towards the engine steady - at least on cars without the horizontal mater cylinder and brake booster combination.

I am used to seeing that valve mounted just offset from where the engine steady mounts to the firewall, such that a nut can be reached from inside the opening for a RHD pedal box.


BruceK

#26
Quote from: MPlayle on September 01, 2018, 02:37:56 PM
That is not even the correct location for the regulator valve.  It should be over more towards the engine steady - at least on cars without the horizontal mater cylinder and brake booster combination.

I am used to seeing that valve mounted just offset from where the engine steady mounts to the firewall, such that a nut can be reached from inside the opening for a RHD pedal box.

Thanks.  That is what I was thinking.  But I think I will install the new valve right where the old one sat, the rationale being I have 4 good brake lines bent up that run to that location now without any issues, and I really don't want to have to mess with creating new brake lines.    And I have seen some photos on the Internet of the valve in that position, so my car is not the only one with it in that place.



1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

Like Michael says, I think you can get a nut on it from behind the pedals, it's all open there.....What I do when I have an inaccessible like this is put some JC weld on it to hold the nut, then tighten it up. that way the next time I can just unthread it as the nut will be held by the JB.

If you can get any threads in the sheet metal, it should hold fine as the brake lines will keep it there.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

Yeah they put it in the wrong spot.  In the correct spot even if there aren't threads you can get a nut on the backside..

BruceK

I found a solution.  If I pull the big subframe bolt out, down in that empty cylinder I can see the back of the hole the wood screw came through.  So I should be able to drill out the hole, try to tap it, and I should be able to get a nut on the back of it. 
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

Willie_B

If you can drill it out then why not a riv-nut?

BruceK

#31
I had never heard of those, but I just looked up and I love the idea. 

Edit:  I love the idea, but a quick search seems to indicate I'd need a special tool and have to buy the riv-nuts in quantity.  I've only got the need for one captive nut, so buying all that stuff would be overkill I think.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

Uh.....I have the riv nut tool and rivnuts......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

BruceK

You do?  But you are still doing the JBWeld a nut in place method? 
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MPlayle

I have the tool and rivnuts as well.

You can buy the tool and a "starter" selection of rivnuts (about 10 each in 4 different sizes) at Harbor Freight for about $20.


BruceK

That's much cheaper that what I was seeing.  I'll make a trip to HF tomorrow and check it out.  Thanks guys! 4.gif
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

Quote from: BruceK on September 01, 2018, 07:24:34 PM
You do?  But you are still doing the JBWeld a nut in place method?

Depends on the application, sometimes a rivnut is fine, sometimes I like a bolt and nut.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

I used rivnuts instead of Dzus fasteners on the side covers of the Moke. 

The new shell did not come with the wires/springs for the Dzus fasteners and a few of the posts in the covers were partially broken.  I removed all the old fasteners when refinishing the side covers and used bolts, washers and rivnuts to give a clean look.  Also makes the other covers consistent with the battery cover which uses welded captive nuts (which the new shell did come with).




jeff10049

or just put self-threading a sheet metal screw in it and be done as Dave said the brake lines alone will hold it just need it to not rattle around. You could also file the hole square and snap one of those plastic things in it like the mini voltage reg uses. Or some license plates use a bigger version.
Or the Riv nut they are kinda neat and worth having but when they spin in the hole later when trying to remove something what a PITA put some antiseez on the threads.



BruceK

I purchased the riv-nut tool at HF, and I tried it out on some scrap metal.  Works okay, but when I looked at the thickness of the sheet metal on the bulkhead, I judged it too deep for the riv-nut to work correctly.  So I decided to tap it.  Worked great.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

BruceK

#40
At the top is the carburetor fuel overflow pipe that has rust holes in it (I posted about it at the top of this thread).

For a replacement, I decided to make my own so I bought some 1/4"  copper tubing at the hardware store, filled it with fine sand so it would not kink when bending, and I attempted to copy the three dimensional S-shape and twists of the original.  I had extra tubing so I tried it a second time and like that result better.   I was going to paint it silver to match the original, but decided to polish the copper instead. And then I clearcoated it to maintain the shine - at the bottom.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

gr8kornholio

Can you post the rivnut tool?  I can't find it on harbor freight website. Or I'm not looking right. Thanks
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

94touring


MPlayle

Quote from: gr8kornholio on September 05, 2018, 07:28:59 PM
Can you post the rivnut tool?  I can't find it on harbor freight website. Or I'm not looking right. Thanks

Here is the website link: https://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html


gr8kornholio

Thanks for the link. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MPlayle

When getting additional rivnuts (I needed a few more than came with the tool), I went with ones that have the ridged shaft.  They are supposed to grip better into the hole and resist spinning loose better.

They work great for where I needed something instead of the Dzus fasteners on the side covers.  Dzus fasteners are much more expensive, especially in small quantities.



BruceK

I was not impressed with the quality of the riv-nuts that came with the HF tool.  They seem to be chromed plastic with a metal threaded insert.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MPlayle

Mine were aluminum.  I ordered a couple small bulk packs via Amazon and used those.


Jimini II

Quote from: Whee on October 11, 2018, 07:18:15 AM
Very minor, but amusing nonetheless. Here's the slave rod I just replaced on my pickup.

BTDT on the side of the road for a repair to get my clutch to work and make it home, although i used an acorn nut.

Rosebud

#49
I'm been using this riv-nut tool with good results.


https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-1442-Setter/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1539402882&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=Astro+1423&psc=1


The hand-squeeze type from Harbor Freight seems like it wouldn't proved enough leverage. It take quite a bit of power to crimp the rivets. My latest riv-nut job was fastening the top of the grill to the engine bay lip. Yeah, I have quick-release grill buttons, but alway had a nasty grill rattle. The riv-nuts took care of it. A little spray can touch-up w/ black satin and I'm done.
Rosebud
...the sled, not the flower
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