what to check first?

[ADRay]

dumb question that I can't find an answer to:

I've installed the new electronic ignition and coil; wired red to +, and black to -.

Do I also hook the old wires (white on +, and white/black to -?

[MiniDave]

Yes, white to plus and white/black to minus. The white wire supplies power to the coil and ign unit, and the black/white is to make the tach work, if you have one.

[BruceK]

Did your car have the ballasted wire? My car did when I converted to an electronic distributor.   I had to trace the wire from the distributor area all the way up to firewall to bypass it.

[ADRay]

all buttoned back up again, and nothing.

Bruce, it doesn't have a ballist.

I also have checked out all of the fuses, the battery, the new coil and the starter solenoid with the multimeter.

do I need to do anything with the harness that the old condenser was plugged into?

[94touring]

Does the car turn over and just no spark?
How does your engine ground wire look?

[ADRay]

Does the car turn over and just no spark?
How does your engine ground wire look?

Yes, cranks but doesn't kick on.

Brand new ground strap.

Is it possible that the timing has been thrown out of whack to the point where it won't start?

[94touring]

Is it producing spark? Hold a plug to the block while cranking, wear rubber gloves  77.gif

[MPlayle]

Yes, it is possible for the timing to be far enough out when swapping distributors.

Manually bring the engine to TDC on #1.  Then set the new distributor so that the rotor is pointing to the plug wire for #1.  This will get you to an initial point that should allow it to start.  Then set the proper timing using a timing light.  Be sure to have the vacuum advance capped off at the carb while setting the basic timing at idle.

[ADRay]

Is it producing spark? Hold a plug to the block while cranking, wear rubber gloves  77.gif

oh man, might have to work up the nerve to do that. Does make me think I should check the plugs (new last year)

Yes, it is possible for the timing to be far enough out when swapping distributors.

Manually bring the engine to TDC on #1.  Then set the new distributor so that the rotor is pointing to the plug wire for #1.  This will get you to an initial point that should allow it to start.  Then set the proper timing using a timing light.  Be sure to have the vacuum advance capped off at the carb while setting the basic timing at idle.

I actually didn't replace the whole thing, just an electronic ignition swap, new rotor & wires.

[MiniDave]

To check spark, stick a small screwdriver in the end of the plug wire and hold it about 1/4" from a headbolt, then have someone crank it over.

[Willie_B]

It's best not to hold on to the plug while leaning forward on the fender, most pressure right in the crotch area..... 11.gif

Don't remember what hurt most, down there or the back of my head when I stood right up.

[94touring]

Lol, worst I've gotten was just a jolt on my hand, minor at that. :-\

[ADRay]

just wanted to let you all know I gave up on trying to figure this thing out & sent it off to the repair shop this morning. I've spent more than a month of the short Mini season trying to figure it out, and decided I'd rather get back to driving it again. Thanks for all the help & info, and I'll do a final post when it comes back.

[ADRay]

quick turnaround at the repair shop, the car is back. another rotor, new plugs and a timing adjustment, it's back on the road and running great. the silver lining is that my electronic ignition & coil install was done correctly.

[BruceK]

Success!    Looks like you are already enjoying your Mini.

[ADRay]

oh yeah, I had to make up for lost time

[John Gervais]

Well done - enjoy!