First Mini Repair - Kind’ve excited about it

[Lone Star Mini]

First Repair – Engine Block Timing cover (I think).

Gents, I need a little direction on my first Mini repair that is two fold.
-         First I need to replace the radiator hoses.  Driving home, my radiator appeared to blow a major leak as I pulled into the driveway(a couple months back).  Unable to locate the leak or potential bad seam, I decided to replace the hose(s) altogether.
-         Since I may be pulling the radiator, I would like to correct the second issue that I found while looking for an oil leak.  I found what appears to be a separation between timing cover (I think) backing plate and engine block.  Without knowing if the backing plate is bent or if the gasket is simply gone, I'm going to replace them all.

The process will go something as follows (not sure if I have terminology correct):
-         Pull Radiator out (visit with Dan taught me that long screw drivers are required)
-         Remove Fan
-         Remove Crankshaft Pulley
-         Remove timing cover and backing plate
-         Installation in reverse order using new gaskets, bolts, etc..

I'm looking for whether or not I'm thinking correct on the general process.  Then too, for any recommended tips that will help.  I have to order all the parts so I have a few days before I start the work (most likely this weekend if I'm lucky).  Because I'm an auto novice, can anyone recommend  a proper gasket sealant product (or do you use only the gasket w/o sealant)?

While I'm at it and for those living in hot environments (heck, nearly all lower USA states are hotter than England), any recommendations for best cooling.  This Mini may become my daily driver for a while, therefore if I need to replace the radiator for a larger one (if possible), what is recommended?

Many thanks in advance,

[jedduh01]

Nice repair order you have planned.

Timing cover gasket + front crank seal are the two main replacement parts needed.
   Good gasket maker /sealer too =  I use Ultra Black, by Permatex

Upon re assembly = make sure the cover bolt holes are all flat ( over time and over torque will distort the holes around the cover.)

When re assembling =   Install the Cover + Gasket  + crank seal  AND the crank pulley in place all together before bolting anything down tight
    The Cover needs to Center up on the crank pulley to prevent the seal to be off center and let it leak.

Install all bolts before tightening anything down.  =  Once everything is started = i use a 'cross pattern' to tighten down. Gorilla tight is not required Just snug.

I also let it sit 24 hours before running to let the sealer dry + setup.

Goodluck!

[Lone Star Mini]

Thanks Jedduh,   I'm not up to speed with terminology, what exactly is the front crank seal ? Would this be a seal for what I called the backing plate (plate between cover and engine block)?  I do appreciate the tips, thank you.   

[MPlayle]

The crank seal is different from the cover seal(s).  It is a ring-seal in the cover where the end of the crank for the pulley come through the cover.

The other thing to be careful of: the bolts that hold the cover to the back plate are two different lengths.  If you get one of the longer ones in the spot you circled in your picture, it can push the back plate out from the block a tiny bit which is just enough to cause a leak.

[Lone Star Mini]

Ah.... that makes sense, thank you Mplayle,   I'm going now to look for all the items I now believe ineed

[Lone Star Mini]

Looking up parts on my lunch break helped me to determine real quick that I will need to remove all the items before I place my part order.  There are simply too many parts that I don't know the names of nor do I realize I will need.  Then too, there are multiple P/Ns for the same item (i.e. timing cover).  This may not be a normal problem, but since I'm not even sure of the year of my Mini, I cannot be sure which part to order.  While at it, I'm going to replace the belts and possibly all components on that side of the engine (backing plate, cover, fan w/ all components).  Depending on the shape of the radiator, I may replace it too..  dang it all, the first repair is growing   

[jedduh01]

We call that 'project creep'.....

Going ahead and doing the 'water pump" while in there is smart.
   along with the  Waterpump Bypass hose.

And you said radiator == people here highly reccomend the Aluminum ones on Ebay ...  Cheap + pretty much guranteed better cooling + you're in texas... need all the cooling you can get!.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC0.A0.H0.Xaustin+mini+radiator.TRS0&_nkw=austin+mini+radiator&_sacat=0


Motor mount too while the mount is 'out'
Grease your speedo cable too while you can access the end of it down in there.

Brake hoses?    also EASY to access while the radiator is out== The rubber hose from the subframe to the Caliper

Oh yes== THe list grows and grows!

[Lone Star Mini]

@Jedduh,    Uhmmm.. thank you!?!   For the link and project creeping my first repair.

[Lone Star Mini]

Of the ebay radiators, which is recommended?   Worley, AMG, Autiray, etc?
Thanks again

[94touring]

I think the last few I bought were worley 50mm.

[MPlayle]

I looked at several of the ads and got confused as well.  Dan provided a link (in my Moke thread) and it was for one of the Worley 50mm ones.

Part of what confused me was that different "brand" sellers had the exact same ad content - text, font,etc. - with just some minor differences in picture presentation.  A little research was indicating they were different postings that led back to the same originating warehouse/supplier.

[John Gervais]

Mine mini is leaking from the same area, so I'm looking forward to hearing how this repair goes - especially since the engine is still sitting in the car. 

[Lone Star Mini]

I looked at several of the ads and got confused as well.  Dan provided a link (in my Moke thread) and it was for one of the Worley 50mm ones.

Part of what confused me was that different "brand" sellers had the exact same ad content - text, font,etc. - with just some minor differences in picture presentation.  A little research was indicating they were different postings that led back to the same originating warehouse/supplier.

My exact confusion...  I will try to find a 52mm one (50mm at the least).  If you guys recommend these, then I'm on it....  thanks all

[94touring]

50mm is the core size, which is significantly larger in capacity than stock.  Also anything bigger will struggle to fit against the inner wing lip, as this one is tight as it gets.

[Lone Star Mini]

Thanks Dan.  I will go this route.   What size are the stock radiators (45mm)?

[94touring]

45mm but I think some as thin as 42mm. 

[Lone Star Mini]

45mm but I think some as thin as 42mm.

Thanks Dan,   If these radiators are only 10" x 10" x 1.9", then the 50mm would have approx 210 cubic inches of coolant which is 20 more than a 45mm radiator.  Seems like a small amount to keep an engine cool on hot days. I will go for the 50mm core. I took a radiator out of my now shell, but when removing, I did not pay close attention to the tight fit.  I guess I'll find out on this repair/replacement

[94touring]

This is the width of the top tank section. 

[94touring]

Also dug up info from my thread to read.

http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=747.25

"Putting in this radiator.  Just did a volume comparison between the stock rad and the new one.  36oz compared to 66oz.  Nearly double!"

[Lone Star Mini]

Thanks Dan..   learning my way here which typically mean one question answered leads to 2-3 others.

First, you modified the radiator fan combo  "... I did a little modifying to fit the fan.  It was about a half inch too thick on the front.  Rather than slide the fan back I cut a few grates and pulled the metal back the small amount I needed.  I also cut out a section of the lower rad on the front to give direct entry air to the radiator.  The thermoswitch keeps leaking on me hence the atv everywhere. "

While I'm eager to learn, I'm not sure I have the skillset to start modifying a radiator, etc..  with the many radiators that you have now installed, is this the norm (modifying the radiator)?

without having driving mini history, I have been leaning towards a belt driven fan whereas you have installed an electronic fan.  My thought process was that I would not want a relay or fuse to go out and the fan stop working.  If a belt blows, I think I would know it.  Does the electronic fan offer better cooling or what are the pros/cons for electronic vs belt driven?

[MPlayle]

Usually, the electric fan is/was added as a supplemental fan to go along with the primary belt-driven fan on the water pump.  The electric fans tend to be installed in the fender - on the outside of the slats of the inner fender.

In stop-n-go traffic, the belt-driven fan and water pump spend more time at idle rpms and so push less air through the radiator.  The electric fan comes on to draw a greater volume of air through than the belt-driven fan at idle rpms.

At higher speeds, the water pump's flow and belt-driven fan air volume is sufficient such that the temp sensor for the electric fan shuts it off.

[MiniDave]

Mine can barely get up to the low temp mark on the gauge on a cold day, on a hot day running hard on the highway it only gets to normal on the gauge, so I doubt an electric will be needed....it gets plenty hot here in Kansas too!

[Lone Star Mini]

Wow, thanks for the excellent explanation!!!  Info like this helps me to better understand. Since I have a restoration in work, I'll opt for the non electric to see how well it works during summer months. I greatly appreciate you gents. 

[94touring]

I tried to do without the mechanical fan and electric fan only with no luck. The electric fan would kick on once in awhile in the dead of summer in stop and go traffic, on an engine running on 3 cylinders.  So the electric fan is now gone.

[John Gervais]

I use a 4-blade fan on the water pump and have a switch-activated electric fan mounted to the radiator to help it out when necessary.  I chose to avoid the in-hose thermostatic switch - one less thing to leak or break.

In stop-and-go traffic, though, turning the heater on does a slightly better job of bringing the temperature down than the electric fan does.