First Mini Repair - Kind’ve excited about it

[MiniDave]

Yes but you have a std radiator, if you had one of the Chinese aluminum radiators you might find you don't need the fan - I sure don't and 95-105* summer temps with high humidity are the norm here.

[John Gervais]

That's one of them-thar MiniSpares 'Super-Cool' radiators...  And you're right - it's probably a bit cooler here during the summer months.

[MiniDave]

I had the same one in Buzz, it did not keep up on hot days - but - it may have been the water pump pulley. since I did it all at once I can't say for sure which item really did the trick.

All I know is that the aluminum rads really work here in the hot part of the country.

[Lone Star Mini]

Ok...  finally getting 'round' to replacing the radiator and fixing the oil leak.  Had a friend visit  from the UK and we spent three days working out all the issues related to oil leak and radiator replacement.  It took that amount of time only because he was educating me along the way (I'm totally a novice at all things automotive).   I believe I've experience my first English classic full on maintenance where finding everything wrong is Par for Course.  Being totally prepared to replace the radiator with all parts and hardware on hand (well almost), here's a log of how it all went down.  I may have a few things out of sequence and/or missing things, but please remember I'm new at this and doing my best to learn...
  - pulling alternator and radiator was a bit of a challenge, but not bad
  - In removing the fan and timing chain cover, we found the following from whomever did work on this last;
       - the two screws just below the crank shaft were totally missing
       - the timing chain cover had 3 gaskets in addition to loads of sealant that had oozed out on all sides (very crappy job)
       - there was no gasket between timing chain backing plate and engine block
       - wrong length screws were used
       - after placing a straight edge center to center between crank shaft (lower) & cam shaft (upper), the timing chain itself was 1-2 teeth off.
  - In order to access/remove the large bolt on the end of the crank shaft, we had to remove the engine mount so we supported the engine with a jack stand.  Impact tools are 'the bomb' when trying to get bolts off like this one...    By the way, if you remove the wheel, access to many bolts are much easier through the inner wing.
  - My friend brought me over a new backing plate because we were worried the existing one was bent.  Cleaned up backing plate, timing chain cover and applied one gasket with a thin layer of Hydromar sealant (what the Mini factories used - OEM sealant)
  - corrected the timing Chain alignment and reinstalled with tensioner and all new hardware (by the way, used either ¼" or 5/16" fine thread hardware on just about everything).  I'm totally in love with ACE hardware because they have it all when it comes to automotive hardware.
  - Reinstalled the timing chain cover with all correct and new hardware.
  - Cleaned up the spacer and 'bell housing' for the radiator fan.
  - According to the Mini Spares website, I purchased the metal 6 blade fan that is suppose to provide better airflow/cooling for hot climates.  Therefore I replaced the existing fan with the new metal fan.
  - When attempting to install the new larger radiator, it would not fit with the new fan.  Therefore had to remove the new and install the old fan.
  - Reinstalled engine mount and engine attachment.
  - Compared radiators between new, existing and radiator out of my other mini.
  - Installed the new hose to the bottom of the radiator before dropping the radiator in place.
  - Also installed fan shroud to radiator before dropping the radiator into place.
  - the new 2 row 50 mm radiator (26 columns) dropped in fairly easy (I was surprised).  Did a check fit as I expected modifications would be needed to shell.  No modifications required.  The radiator did sit higher, but the bonnet accepted it w/o fouling.  Ah.. not exactly true.  The only modification that was required was the support bracket from top of fan shroud to thermostat housing.  It works, but I will replace it with a new "cleaner" bracket.
  - Cut out the inner thermostat mechanism thereby rendering the thermostat non-functioning.  We left a simple orifice for constant coolant flow (all instruction are on the Mini Spares website).  I purchase two new thermostats, but will keep them for the other Minis (if needed).
  - Reinstalled thermostat housing and reconnected hoses (all new hoses including new cap for thermostat.

-   Even though I purchased a new alternator, I decided to use the existing one because there was nothing wrong with it.  When reinstalling the alternator, I found that the adjustment bracket on the bottom side was all 'knackered' up.  Either it's the wrong alternator or the wrong bracket (long story there), but holes were drilled in the bracket to keep the alternator from slipping down/up.  That is the one bracket that I did not have so I had no choice, but to reuse it.  I will replace that on my next Mini Spares order.
-   Got everything reinstalled with a satisfaction of job complete.  Then on attempt to run/test, the engine would not start.  Turned out that we plugged a vent hose from the carburetor that was preventing the proper mixture I guess (?).  Once I removed the plug we added, the car started up right away. 
-   However the engine sounded HORRIBLE with explosions behind the carburetor.
-   Long story short, we believe that since whomever installed the timing chain out of sync, they adjusted the distributor to account for the rough running engine.  Therefore we adjusted the distributor back to what it should have been and the engine rev'd up nicely with no carburetor explosions.
-   Took the car for a short test drive and watched the temp gauge..  all seems to be running smoothly and zero leaks (oil or other).

With the experience I have also learned that:
-   This particular 1275 engine was an SPi once upon a timet hat has been converted back to a carburetor system.  Therefore there are loads of unconnected wires, cut and plugged hoses – simply confusing for a novice to be sure.
-   Course threads are typically used more in aluminum material whereas fine threads are typically used in cast iron or steel.  With that said however, the engine block (case iron) uses both course and fine thread.  Therefore awareness to look for this can save headache down the road.

On to other Mini issues, but this was a first good run with quite a few issues to resolve...

[MiniDave]

On most Minis the lower adjuster bracket for the alternator is on the other way, the slide portion goes on the engine stud, the single hole bolts to the alternator. Spi engines could be different......but you might see if it will go the other way. There should be a pillar support on the engine end which you are missing and the bracket attaches on the front (radiator side) of the alternator.

Edit: Minispares says they're all the same up to and including Spi - you need this.....


http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Block/Studs_bolts/12G289.aspx?100112&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/alternator.aspx|Back%20to%20search



Good that you found the missing screws, if you ever do a double row timing chain you have to chamfer the holes and use a tapered head screw or they'll foul the crank gear.

[gr8kornholio]

I plugged the same port on my carburetor with same result.  I believe it is the fuel overflow/bypass port, so run a piece of hose down away from the exhaust off that port.

[BruceK]

Wow Randy.  You did a lot.    77.gif   Must be satisfying to make that progress. 

[Lone Star Mini]

Thanks all.. @Bruce, it is satisfying and after a day or so now, not a drop of oil or leak.  @Dave..   I do appreciate the knowledge.  I took pictures of every part before and during disassembly to be sure to put it back "right".  Whomever touched this car last apparently didn't know classic minis and/or was racing against the clock.  @..holio..  I actually cut the hose to make it shorter, but now I may replace it with something longer.  Will be heading up to Route 66 for the sole purpose of driving the Mini on the historic route....

[MiniDave]

Randy, that's the same lesson I tried to teach my students when they'd use YouTube vids to figure out how to do something on their cars - what if the guy doing the video is doing it wrong - how would you know?

In their case I was trying to teach them to go to the "right" sources, such as owners manuals, factory workshop manuals or even factory parts books.....they always wanted to take the short cut.

In your case since you've never seen these parts before, you can be excused for not knowing how they're supposed to look.   77.gif

[gr8kornholio]

Yep, my learning is usually a combination of the two.  Read the shop manual if the pics and statements aren't making sense then I you tube it for visual clarification.  Sometimes though you just have to jump in and try.