Just ordered a Moke shell

Started by Willie_B, January 17, 2018, 12:09:37 PM

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Willie_B

#175
Needs clearcoat. Then flip it over to paint the top side. Plus the 15 other parts with it. My paint parts list was pushing 50 parts. Decided to have all the small bits powercoated.

Maybe I could that truck hood in the background for a top. Wonder if they would miss it...

MiniDave

Wow, almost 3 years so far since you ordered it.....I can't remember, do you already have the engine for it built and ready to go?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

Quote from: MiniDave on October 22, 2020, 11:20:22 AM
Wow, almost 3 years so far since you ordered it.....I can't remember, do you already have the engine for it built and ready to go?

Yes, the engine and all is ready to go. I am in the process of building both subframes now. Being as there is zero access from the front then the complete subframe/engine all goes from underneath. All the other bits are rebuilt and ready to for the build. New wiring harness to make sure no smoke escapes. Will use a 5 amp temp fuse on the ground side of the battery just for extra feel good.

pbraun

Looking good!  Now to put things where they go!
Peter
65 Moke
60 Bugeye modified
66 Jaguar XJ13 ( I can wish )

94touring

I really like the color  4.gif

Willie_B

Quote from: 94touring on October 23, 2020, 06:46:29 AM
I really like the color  4.gif

I picked the powder coating color first and had the paint matched to that. Color is called  Troll Blue.

cstudep

I was going to ask what color that was. Looks good.

Willie_B

While working on putting the front subframe together today I had a difficult time getting a couple of fasteners tight. On one of the lower arm pivot shafts the threads stripped off. On both of the upper arms pivot shaft the rear lock washer did its best to become un-round. All are brand new. So into the spares bin to pull out a good old pivot shafts for both lower arms, glad I kept them. Also grab some grade 8 lock washers for the uppers.

MiniDave

#183
A lot of people have been complaining about the quality of parts being supplied lately.....that is some real crap looking metal there.....

If you had your subframes powdercoated, you will need to clean out the holes with a file or take some metal off the D shaped part that fits in the hole, ask me how I know! I chose to clean out the holes with a file - it takes all the corrosion protection off so I made sure to put some lithium grease on those surfaces.

I thought I could just pull them into place with the nuts - they didn't go.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

Wow!  It should be extremely hard to strip one of those. 

Willie_B

I know, only calls for 35ft lbs so jeepers.

94touring

I've always just done them good and tight.  Last thing I'd expect is stripping one. 

MiniDave

Terrible Chinese metallurgy - pot metal - cheap parts.

When I ran the plant I stopped used Chinese bearings after one try, you never knew what you would get - they might be fine or they might last 15 min....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

tsumini

Down side of fine threads. Threads looks like they just sheared off. Too soft material may not help[ either.

94touring

I've always considered fine as being stronger.  Maybe Brad just doesn't know his own strength.

cstudep

#190
You would be correct in your assumption. Fine threading has a higher tensile strength and slightly better shear strength for comparable fastener sizes. The torque values created are also more accurate. It's also generally better in high vibration situations as the shallow pitch of the thread is more resistant to loosening from vibrations. The differences are not large though.

One of the down sides is they are a whole lot easier to cross thread, and if you have a particularly long fastener to deal with the time it takes to thread it in can be a lot longer. Only a real hassle when your dealing with one of those bolts that you can't actually see, can only get a wrench on while standing on your head, and you can only rotate said wrench about 20 degrees before having to reposition the wrench. That bolt is also always about 1.5" longer than it seems it needed to be.

gr8kornholio

That was the torsion bolts on my Toyota. Could get a tool on them but gravity was against you and I swear those things were 6 inches long and under tension the whole time.  Whole reason I bought my electric impact driver.  Wedge the wrench on the nut and pull the trigger.  Even then it seemed like forever. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Willie_B

#192
Body is done. Will not be able to get it till Monday due to weather and the shop being closed for a long weekend. So started on the rear subframe. Lets start with the swingarms. Got the right side in with a little bit of figuring how to hold what where. Then decided to put the subframe mount in. Dang it, the nut on the end is BEHIND the swingarm. Will have to pull the swingarm back out. Must be time to quit for the day.

An interesting bit of info on the Ho-Los. I am using an old set from Ripspeed that uses a long allen that goes thru the center of the donut to adjust the height, front and rear. When they were designed it was made to use an already existing rubber boot from elsewhere in the mini to cover the lower part where the screw shaft goes onto the knuckle joint or the long shaft for the rear. You see it in the photo. It keeps all the crud out of the threaded part. There are no locking nuts there so easy to cover it. Cool idea.

Willie_B

Now a technical question. For the rear wheel bearings I have a set of Timkin roller bearings and an NOS set of regular ball bearing wheel bearings. I thought I read somewhere that for non drive rear wheels that ball bearings may be better. So which to use and why?

MiniDave

When you flip it over, the knuckles will come out of the sockets and pull the rubbers off, cause it's the shocks that hold the swingarms up. PITA

Better how?

I can't imagine one being better than the other, as long as they're set up right.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

Quote from: MiniDave on October 28, 2020, 04:04:30 PM

Better how?

I can't imagine one being better than the other, as long as they're set up right.

Ok, maybe not better but as there is not as much side load that ball bearings would be no problem.  Can't get much lighter and minimal side load than the rear of a moke...

BruceK

I have not heard about those older style Hi-Lo's for at least 30 years. Or more.  Need a big long Allen key if I remember correctly.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

Quote from: Willie_B on October 28, 2020, 04:55:07 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on October 28, 2020, 04:04:30 PM

Better how?

I can't imagine one being better than the other, as long as they're set up right.

Ok, maybe not better but as there is not as much side load that ball bearings would be no problem.  Can't get much lighter and minimal side load than the rear of a Moke...

True enough! OK, again....I think either set will work fine as long as they're set up right.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

Quote from: Willie_B on October 28, 2020, 04:03:06 PM
Now a technical question. For the rear wheel bearings I have a set of Timkin roller bearings and an NOS set of regular ball bearing wheel bearings. I thought I read somewhere that for non drive rear wheels that ball bearings may be better. So which to use and why?

Less friction, wheels will spin more freely with the ball bearings.  That's my understanding and experience anyways.

MPlayle

As for Dave's comment about keeping the knuckle joint from coming apart when the swing arm droops fully since no shock is holding it up, do what was done for shipping the completed subframe to me for my Moke restoration: large zip-ties around the frame and swing arm to keep them from moving.