Just ordered a Moke shell

Started by Willie_B, January 17, 2018, 12:09:37 PM

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Jimini II

Quote from: Willie_B on May 25, 2019, 06:10:15 PM
Hopefully go get my mini and the moke powerplant the first week in June.

Had some hats made for mokin'. Extra points for whomever figures out the logo takeoff.

I'll take a shot Brad. Australian slang for a Donkey is Moke or vise versa.
Or maybe you are taking off the Ferrari prancing horse.

Looks good.

Willie_B

#76
Quote from: Jimini II on May 29, 2019, 10:01:38 AM
Quote from: Willie_B on May 25, 2019, 06:10:15 PM
Hopefully go get my mini and the moke powerplant the first week in June.

Had some hats made for mokin'. Extra points for whomever figures out the logo takeoff.

I'll take a shot Brad. Australian slang for a Donkey is Moke or vise versa.
Or maybe you are taking off the Ferrari prancing horse.

Looks good.

You got it Malcolm. Take off from the Ferrari prancing horse.

Willie_B

Drove up to Virginia today so I can go to Coopertunes shop Monday. My mini is ready and the moke engine is ready to run on the test stand. A day hanging out at his shop then load up. Head back home Tuesday early. Only 600 miles back.

Willie_B

Been working on small bits and jobs dragging my feet on getting back to the shell. No good reason for that. The main job I was not looking forward to was fitting the bonnet. Moke bonnets have a habit of spreading at the sides due to handling, mine was no exception. I needed to persuade both sides to a different curve profile so it would line up with the body. My weapon of choice was the top of a power pole that I had cut off. Between that and a couple of hammers, clamps and cresent wrench it looks fine. Because the shell I was sent is a MK2 but my old one is a MK1 the bonnet hinge mounts are in a slightly different location. I had to drill out the welds to remove the mounts. The holes will need to be filled, new hole made and new mounts welded on. So all in about 3 hours in the basement. Now I need to stay with it and get the shell to the paint shop. Still leaning toward a very light blue color.

MiniDave

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

Unless you're going for originality, you might consider having the car powder coated rather than painted - the results were fantastic on Clancy's car, and it cost him $1500 inside and out. Plus - no cure time. Once it comes out of the oven, it's done.

To me the only downside is if you get a bad scratch or have to repair something due to a fender bender or somesuch.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

#81
Quote from: MiniDave on August 16, 2019, 08:12:34 AM
Unless you're going for originality, you might consider having the car powder coated rather than painted - the results were fantastic on Clancy's car, and it cost him $1500 inside and out. Plus - no cure time. Once it comes out of the oven, it's done.

To me the only downside is if you get a bad scratch or have to repair something due to a fender bender or somesuch.

I was surprised about how low the price was for the powder coating. I might go by the place I use and inquire. From the small bits they have done in the past I would not expect as god a deal. I am over thirty parts besides the body that need to be in the same body color. Maybe with powder instead of paint getting a match should be easier though.

BruceK

I wonder:  does powdercoating hold up under UV light well?  As well as regular paint?  Wouldn't want the sun to change the color.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

94touring

What about pre existing dings or deep scratches on the body?

MiniDave

Quote from: Willie_B on April 09, 2019, 02:01:36 PM
After spending more time than I liked trying to get the front subframe I had to fit I just got a new one from MiniSport. Not cheap but it is a whole lot closer to fitting. It looks like a few minor tweaks and it should work.  An extra good thing about it is that has a welded in bracket for a front lower engine steady. Need to fit the front sump guard, special one that were on mokes. Also open up the front mount holes to 1/2" for the tow bar.

How do you get those tower guide studs out once the subframe is in? did you slot them for a screwdriver so you could back them out? Don't know why the factory didn't just use studs, guide it in and nut it up....done.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

Quote from: BruceK on August 16, 2019, 08:49:01 AM
I wonder:  does powdercoating hold up under UV light well?  As well as regular paint?  Wouldn't want the sun to change the color.

My understanding is it has UV inhibitors like paint does.....no idea how long it lasts before fading, could be decades or years. But considering how little these cars are actually in the sun, I don't think I'd worry about it.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

Quote from: 94touring on August 16, 2019, 08:51:28 AM
What about pre existing dings or deep scratches on the body?

You'd have to metal finish them I guess......you'd know more about it than me.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

Quote from: Willie_B on August 16, 2019, 08:21:02 AM

I was surprised about how low the price was for the powder coating. I might go by the place I use and inquire. From the small bits they have done in the past I would not expect as god a deal. I am over thirty pats besides the body that need to be in the same body color. Maybe with powder instead of paint getting a match should be easier though.

Should match perfectly, yes. Clancy has it soda blasted first, then coated.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

Quote from: MiniDave on August 16, 2019, 09:53:44 AM
Quote from: Willie_B on April 09, 2019, 02:01:36 PM
After spending more time than I liked trying to get the front subframe I had to fit I just got a new one from MiniSport. Not cheap but it is a whole lot closer to fitting. It looks like a few minor tweaks and it should work.  An extra good thing about it is that has a welded in bracket for a front lower engine steady. Need to fit the front sump guard, special one that were on mokes. Also open up the front mount holes to 1/2" for the tow bar.

How do you get those tower guide studs out once the subframe is in? did you slot them for a screwdriver so you could back them out? Don't know why the factory didn't just use studs, guide it in and nut it up....done.

The guide studs I made are just put in hand tight. If need be I can grab it with pliers to remove.

Willie_B

#89
Next up on the get creative list was the fuel pump mount. I did not want to drill holes in the top of the side pannier so I hung the bracket in the side of the compartment. The bracket is a galvanized piece from Home Depot for deck building. Hung it with two exhaust rubber bobbins to cushion it. I hope the pump does not mind being upside down.

All my fill-in pieces to patch unwanted holes are made. I need to get a neighbors stuff off my trailer so I can take the shell to a good welder to have them tig welded in.

After that then have the body dustless blasted clean as the primer they used does not stick at all.

Then final go over and off to the painter.

drmini

You asked about preexisting dings and scratches and powder coating?  One thing is certain, you can't use bondo and powder coat.  I guess you would have to resort to the old method of "leading" the dents.  Not for the novice and not sure many folks could do it now.

MiniDave

Actually, I think they do have a type of "Bondo" that works in the powdercoating oven.....seems the guys I use told me that. I'll have to ask.....

Edit: Yes, it's not exactly Bondo, but there is a product you can use to fill dings before powder coating....

https://www.alvinproducts.com/In-The-News/ID/8/Epoxy-Putty-for-Powder-Coating
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

Just dropped the moke off with  the guy that's doing the welding. Feel good about him. 30x40 shop behind his house. Him and 2 young teen sons working on a couple of go carts. He seemed excited about the moke. Used the mower to tow it up from the basement. Son was over for breakfast so he had to work for it.

Bond007mini

Wait a minute!!!
I'll work for a good breakfast!!!!
Looks like a fun project

drmini

Looking real good!  Glad to see that you have fixed all the areas that the shell was incorrect.  I know it will be a near perfect Moke when you get finished as you have gone to such detail to make everything correct.  Are you going to do the bodywork and paint yourself or send it out?  Once you get to the reassembly point give me a shout and I'll come down and help.  Fun fun fun!

Willie_B

Yet another learning opportunity. Dzus fasteners for some of the covers. I removed all the ones from the old covers before blasting. So I needed to install new ones. Learned that there is a aluminum grommet that goes in the hole first. Online searching came up with a way to fold over the rear of the grommet, who needs that fancy/expensive tool anyway. Angle head screw to start the fold over process. Bolt & washer to finish. I will use either a flat plastic push on washer or a spring clip to hold the fastener in place.

The item list of stuff that has to be painted body color grows. In addition to the body the list is close to 50 extra bits. From side covers and dash panel to bolts and dzus fasteners.


MiniDave

You can do the same with rivnuts, I think they tighten up better that way anyway!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

Don't forget about rivitting in the spring piece of the Dzus fastener to the inside of the matching body hole.

I went a budget route when I did my Moke: I went with riv-nuts and bolts instead of Dzus fasteners.  (I know, not factory proper.  However, Dzus fasteners cost considerably more and I did not find anything describing the shortcut Brad found for the washer installation.)


Jimini II

Quote from: MPlayle on December 29, 2019, 02:27:37 PM
Don't forget about rivitting in the spring piece of the Dzus fastener to the inside of the matching body hole.

I went a budget route when I did my Moke: I went with riv-nuts and bolts instead of Dzus fasteners.  (I know, not factory proper.  However, Dzus fasteners cost considerably more and I did not find anything describing the shortcut Brad found for the washer installation.)

I did the same thing on my last Moke build, used stainless phillips head bolts with an O ring on the  bolt to stop it falling out when the covers were removed.
The problem I find is removing the covers without chipping the paint on the factory fasteners, they would be better off plated or chromed if you are not going for a stock look.

Willie_B

#99
I think I have the holes for stuff drilled and a final go over looking for high spots that needed knocking down.  Monday and Tuesday is supposed to rain here so I moved the moke from the basement to the garage. It is ready to go have the crappy primer blasted off and good epoxy primer sprayed on. The blaster place is right next door to the body shop so it will just be rolled from one to the other. It was the bodyshops idea to do that.