Just ordered a Moke shell

Started by Willie_B, January 17, 2018, 12:09:37 PM

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94touring

I think the easiest way is youtube then link here via [youtube][/youtube ]

BruceK

Quote from: Willie_B on January 26, 2021, 03:33:37 PM
First time shooting a video on my phone today. So might be able to capture the moment.  So would I need to put the video on youtube and then link to there or what?

Yes.  It's easy to set up a YouTube account.  Then it is just a matter of selecting the video on your phone as the one you want to upload to your new YouTube account.

You can keep the video private if you don't want the whole world to see you video, and just post the link here (using the YouTube tool right under the Change Color box when you are posting here.   An easy way to keep you video private (if you care about that) is to so give the video some random combination of letters like go6ek452 or something so it won't be picked up during a search on YouTube.  On the other hand, if you want the world to see the video just give it a normal title and people searching for Moke or Austin or whatever will find it. 
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

Yep, that's how I do mine....but I can't think of any reason to make mine private, so I don't.

They have a new wrinkle now, you have to indicate whether your video is safe for children!  ::)
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

New windscreen came in today. Ordered online from Vintageglass.com.  They asked for a pattern just to be sure. Very well packed. Total was $150 delivered.

MPlayle

In one sense, Moke glass is easier to source since it is truly a flat panel.

When the original windshield of the white Moke I restored broke when trying to re-install it, I just went to a local glass shop and got a new one made and installed.  I made sure to order it as a laminated glass.  My cost was a bit more, but I had them install it into the restored frame with the new seals I had already obtained.


Willie_B


MiniDave

Awesome!!!!!!   4.gif

It just purred....... 62.gif
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

BruceK

#307
Quote from: Willie_B on January 27, 2021, 03:29:26 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xajX-K3u6Lc

Excellent!  On two counts:  1) the engine installed in the Moke first start up (hooray!), and 2) you successfully making a video and posting it on YouTube.

Brad, if you take the part of that address above following the equal sign, and post mix of characters  between the {youtube}xajX-K3u6Lc{/youtube} tool (with [ and ] used not the { and } , you can make it show up like below.   

1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

or, just put the entire link in the parentheses when you click the YOu Tube button above the dialogue box

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

BruceK

Ah.  It didn't used to work that way.  Thanks Dave. Makes it even easier.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

pbraun

Peter
65 Moke
60 Bugeye modified
66 Jaguar XJ13 ( I can wish )

Scargo

#311
Brad ... I'm sure no one here needs to remind you of this but I feel compelled to do so. Since that is a freshly rebuilt engine, unless it has already been "run-in", you need to run it at 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes in order to bed the cam and lifters.

.


MiniDave

I'm sure he'll want to do a few things first, like put the dash together, install the exhaust system and move it out of the basement and up into the garage......wife might object to 20 min of exhaust fumes polluting the house!  77.gif

I run all my engines in on the test bed for at least 1/2 hour, including 20 min at 2K to bed in the cam, I wouldn't be surprised that Coopertune does the same.

You know,  I'd never heard of this practice before I started working on classic Mini engines again. All the others I'd done over my whole life, we fired em up and drove em around the block a few times to make sure everything worked properly, kept them overnight for a head retorque and valve adjustement, then sent them home.  8.gif
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Scargo

#313
I've always subscribed to the practice of the 20 minute/steady 2,000 rpm run-in period. After cool down, re-torque the head, check the valve clearances and adjust if necessary.

Once it's ready for the initial road test, the first run should be done at varying the RPM's and loads, paying particular attention to lugging the engine in 4th in order to help bed the rings.

I'm no engine builder, so you guys please correct me if I'm all washed up on this.


Willie_B

The next "always something" is the steering rack/column. The rack just has the one cutout for the column position. Of course this does not make the shaft alignment correct for the bolt that cancels the turn signal. I need to move that bolt hole 90 degrees from where it is now. Time to grind a new flat spot and tap the new hole.

94touring

Glad to hear it running  4.gif

MiniDave

scargo, I agree with everything you said except the lugging in 4th - never do that!

Put a load on it sure, run it up to 4K in 2nd and 3rd, then let it back down and do it again. But no lugging.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Scargo

Got it, thank you for the clarification, Dave.

94touring

My engine break in is basically what you guys have already said.  No low rpm lugging and no steady state rpm driving. Vary rpms, give it a fair amount of throttle and rpms but don't go all out on it for the first 250 miles.  You need engine load to create pressure behind the rings, forcing them to bed into the cylinder walls. Give it a few heat cycles in that 250.  Change the oil then have at it.  Also very important to not run overly rich during initial break in so the rings bed into the cylinder walls rather than get fuel wash creating low compression.  You're better off being lean initially. 

Willie_B

#319
Finishing the rear brake stuff. Put in an adjustable valve. Should be able to just reach under to adjust it. Next is the front to rear line. Being as it goes through the right side pontoon there is a coupling inside the front most compartment so as not to have to run one long continuous line.

Willie_B

Another aftermarket part problem. When putting the front hubs in threads on one of the balljoints stripped. About 50 ft lbs they went. This was the upper ballpoint so spec is 60. New OEM parts on order.

MiniDave

#321
Is that one of the new maintenance free ones from Japan, or just a regular ol Mini ball joint? Or one of the MS cheapies?

You're lucky you got the nut off, a lot of times when they strip like that they just spin in the hole and you have to put a jack under the hub or arm to put enough pressure on them to spin the nut off - that's where a good high powered impact wrench comes in handy.

I've actually had pretty good luck with the MS cheapies over the years, I have them on my green car and after a good 15K they still don't feel loose or like they need re-shimming.

But after putting a set of those maint. free ones from Japan on this white car, I'd be sorely tempted to use those from now on.....despite the cost. One small tip on those.....you can't get a 1-1/2" socket down over the rubber boot, so they want you to take it off to tighten the ball joint into the hub, but I have a box end wrench and it slips right over the boot and onto the nut - worked a treat!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

It seems my torque spec I used is wrong. It is 35-40 for both upper and lower. Oh well, another learning experience. I will still replace all the balljoints anyway,  as the ones on now came with the used hubs when I bought them.

Going to take a moke break and work on the mini instead. Change the front cones to the evo ones before the engine goes back in.

MiniDave

SO much easier to change the cones with the motor out - even more so if it's an automatic! Ask me how I know?

I'm eager to hear what you think of the evo cones but I think it might take a few hundred miles to get a real assessment of them.

Can't wait to hear the engine fire up in the Red car....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

Finally got back to spending time working on the moke. So testing the brake system with air pressure. Started out with 30psi. Could hear air leaking and found the both rear bleed screws open, that's easy. Still losing air so crank it up to 60psi and start checking fittings with a stethoscope and find 2 loose. Crank the air up to 100 psi and find 2 more leaks. So far just a bit more snug takes care of it. Then I was concerned just how high I could go so look it up on google. Seems brake pressure can exceed 1000psi so I am good at 150. As high as my compressor will go. No more leaks found. Decided to run flexible lines from the masters so waiting on those. Also waiting on the shop to press in longer wheel studs on the front discs, need to go bug him again.