Wiring ?

Started by Lone Star Mini, January 04, 2018, 10:59:12 AM

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Lone Star Mini

Pardon if the question has been asked before.  My wiring loom looked wonderfully bad with multiple spliced connections that included burn wires.  From day one, I decided to replace the entire loom.  Being new to everything automotive, wiring is a tad intimidating.  My original idea was to find and order a new loom from Mini Spares.  Since that time, I've had a couple people (1 mini related and one America car related) suggest that I use EZ Wiring for my loom.  I don't know what I'm faced with.. . size and location of fuse box?  Are there specific connectors required for gauges and all components?  ETc.. etc. .I only remember unique connectors for the gauges, nothing else on the car.  When looking at the EZwiring loom, it does seem attractive from a beginners perspective.  Any tips and/or advice out there for whether or not it would be more of a hassle to go with an American wire company verses ordering a specific Loom for the Mini from Mini Spares?

Thanks in advance.
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

MiniDave

#1
Buy a new correct harness if you intend to use the original lights, switches and gauges. I just installed one on Stan's car and *surprise*! everything worked!

If you're going with all LED lights and aftermarket gauges and switches, then you might go with an aftermarket harness. The OEM has the right connectors for the turn signal switches, gauge cluster, fuel sender, rear defroster, reverse light switch and all the lights......adding those connectors to an aftermarket harness would be  PITA.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Lone Star Mini

Thanks Dave,  I respect ya'lls advice.  How will I handle additional wires for USB and other items I may want? Also, can i move the fuse box. I think mine was in the engine bay
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

MPlayle

As Dave says, if retaining the factory gauges, switches, etc., a Mini specific harness is the way to go.

If just adding a few accessories, there are multiple ways to go.  To handle a single thing such as USB a charging port, the simplest is to run a fused wire from an appropriate location on the factory fuse box to the charging port and the ground to a convenient body location. 

If adding a few things (driving lights, charger port, other accessory ports), you can run a main power feed to a secondary fuse box and from there run lines to the new items as individual lines "piggy backed" on the factory harness or make up an appropriate sub-harness.


Lone Star Mini

Thanks Mplayle,   So much to learn. I will have all new gauges for sure , but will have to find the appropriate mini spares loom to start with
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

MPlayle

#5
When you say "all new gauges", will they be "factory" Mini gauges, or other aftermarket ones?

(Example: If going from factory small set in front of driver to center mounted large speedometer, then recommend staying with appropriate factory harness.  If going to modern gauges from non-Mini supplier such as Autometer or other company, then consider an aftermarket harness.)

Edit:  I have done several factory harness replacements.  On one Mini that I did a custom dash with all new Autometer gauges, I started with a factory harness and made a custom sub-harness to join the gauges to the factory harness.  That let me retain factory connectors for the various switches (wipers, headlights, ignition, etc.) and electrical components (starter, alternator, fuse box, solenoid, etc.).  I have not used any of the generic aftermarket harnesses.

Lone Star Mini

All new gauges from mini spares at present. My mini had the mini city cluster/panel.  The restored mini will be a cooper wanna-be
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

MPlayle

So planning a center cluster? 

I would recommend the nearest matching Mini specific harness.  If you have patience with the email habits of Mini Spares, I would explain what you are attempting and see which harness (and possible adapter sub-harness) they recommend.


MiniDave

Then you need the same harnesses I just installed in Stan's 78, I'll see if he has the part numbers - he went with the new center 3 gauge setup and everything just plugged in. Check his restoration thread for more pics and info...

I usually buy an additional 4 fuse box just like the one that's on the car, then supply a fused hot lead straight from the starter solenoid to it, then pull all my accessory items off that, looks good and works perfectly.

You can see the extra box in this pic of Buzz, to the left of the original one
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

BruceK

Sounds like a good idea.  Was there an inline fuse used on the power supply to the new fuse box? 
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

Yes, but I don't know if that's really necessary since all the load side wires are fused.......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

BruceK

It can't hurt.  But it could be confusing tracking it down if it blew.


I'm planning on installing a fusible link on my car.  That long, thick (unfused) cable from the battery up to the starter solenoid has been weighing on my mind.  Sure, it's unlikely to be an issue.  But still...
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

Not too hard to track, if you have power where it attaches at the solenoid, and none at the fuse panel......bingo.

I've never heard of having a problem with the main cable from the battery unless in an accident or something.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Lone Star Mini

I'm sure glad Dave suggested I look up restorationmini... thank you Dave!    I hope to earn a great deal from you gents 4.gif
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

MiniDave

We're glad to have you here too!   4.gif
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Good reading, like the piggyback fuse idea.  I may look into that for adding accessories to mine.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

John Gervais

When I added a 2nd fuse box to my car, I didn't want to have those fuses 'live' all the time so I installed a 70A fused heavy-duty relay for any and all accessories that may be connected to the fuse box.  The 'trigger' wire is a 'switched' circuit wire from the original fuse box.

I think I've got 7 relays in total, 4 x lights,, 1 x  horn, 1 x wideband a/f meter, 1 x 70A accessory fuse box.  All of the relays are fused appropriately for load and their triggers have 2A fuses.
- Pave the Bay -

MiniDave

#17
And that's a good way to do it, but in my case I wanted those items live all the time - they were for things like a radio, GPS, phone charger etc. so I didn't want to have to leave the ignition on to get them to work - I was still running points then too. For the one other item - driving lights - that was on that circuit, I did like you and used a relay that was controlled by a switch that was ign-on only.

Relays are an absolute necessity for heavy load items like driving lights, but not for things like the phone charger and radio, they only draw a couple of amps. If you have a big ass amplifier and some kickin speakers, then you need relays for that also - and probably a bigger alternator!   ;D
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

SoCalMiniFan

I'm in the midst of re-wiring my car in it's entirirty, I keep getting sidetracked with other little things of improvement to do "since the car is apart".  I'm currently working on a custom Walnut wood gauge cluster mount and then the metal blanking plate for the firewall to keep the interior fumes at bay.

For the gauges, I ordered a new loom from MiniSpares for the Speedo Cluster, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp.  The loom is for those three items and is neat and clean and tidy, pretty straight forward but a few wires I couldn't find their proper whereabouts, I straight clipped the old one out of my car with little regard and much haste. Santa recently brought me a 30"x48" laminated copy of my proper wiring diagram that he found on http://www.classicminidiy.com specifically for my car. It was tremendously helpful.

I had to unwrap the loom to find out some wires, particularly the light green ones dealing with the Voltage Stabilizer. The unidentified white wire with the "L" connector I narrowed down to being the wire from fuse block to the voltage stabilizer, it's green on my diagram. But I sorted it all out and wrapped it back up. Once my dash is ready I'll be able to install it and connect it into the Universal loom that I'm working it.

I fully dreaded this project but I'm now really enjoying it knowing how much more reliable my car will be, no wondering if my tail lights will work or if my headlights will be bright enough to guide me home.

Here are some photos of my Speedo Loom in progress and giant wiring diagram.
"If it's not fun, why do it?"

MiniDave

You are correct, the white wire is the 12V supply to the voltage stabilizer, the light green wires are the output side of the VS, and one goes to the temperature gauge, another to the fuel gauge input, the green/black wire goes from the fuel gauge back to the fuel sending unit.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Spitz

Quote from: MiniDave on January 04, 2018, 03:45:42 PM
Not too hard to track, if you have power where it attaches at the solenoid, and none at the fuse panel......bingo.

I've never heard of having a problem with the main cable from the battery unless in an accident or something.

I had a bit of smoke coming from under the hood at one point while cranking.  Thought it was from the soloid, checked for lose cables, nothing. Checked the battery, seemed warm....check cables, tried again

Kaboom....battery exploded   :(

an investigation showed that the positive cable leading up to the starter ( I think it was )...had been rubbing on the sub frame, worn through the coating and welded itself to the frame.

I keep hearing this firm recommended
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/