Author Topic: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)  (Read 13679 times)

Offline Bahowe1

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #175 on: March 14, 2018, 06:28:20 AM »
Thanks guys.  So, for now, I'll guess I'll just put the seal on the body and shut the boot quickly.  I only need it for possibility of rain at the April event (2-3 days).  But for when it comes the real time (after paint), the later seals, are they just larger and sort of lock themselves into that area on the body?
Also, yeah Dan, the screw holes are significantly larger than the screws on my old lid.  I was confused as well - but just assumed the later lid has a thicker screw.  I found some screws to fit, they were metric (maybe there is an SI equivalent - but that's harder to find for fine thread), M6x1.  That's a pretty thick screw.  I'll have to drill out (slightly) the cable ends and the rear latch holes to fit the thicker screw.  Anyone else experience this on a replacement lid? 

Offline 94touring

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #176 on: March 14, 2018, 07:25:03 AM »
The later seals are much easier to work with.  They just seal in  different spot is all.

Offline MiniDave

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #177 on: March 14, 2018, 09:04:57 AM »
The screws on my 89 are still the small ones.......
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline Bahowe1

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #178 on: March 26, 2018, 07:45:09 AM »
Lots more done in the past two weekends.
First picture is the boot lid screw difference.  I don't think it matters, just in case anyone is replacing a lid, it's something to note that you might need to source different screws.
Got the boot lid on... then off, then on, then off, etc.  Ha!  Fitting up anything new is fidgety.  But, I got the gaps pretty good now and am happy.  For the time being, I just glued the old seal on.  It'll get a new seal with the real rebuild (like my Flowmaster sicker?).
This weekend I put the doors back on - but I'll have a do a bit of fidgeting with the lower seals area to get the bottom of the door right, sort of sticks out a bit now as it is.  The front end and hood also went on and the gaps are pretty decent there.
I also got busy with a stud welder to fit my flares.  They'll get the rubber backing strip around them in the real rebuild, but for now, they look pretty good.  And I got a passenger seat in.  None of the interior will made the cut for the final rebuild... but it's good enough for the April event.  I also got a different color spray paint to cover over some of the exposed metal... I'm going for 'street camo' paint look now.
This weekend I put about 200 miles on it.  Problems... I have still been unsuccessful in getting the AC system to hold pressure all because one welded fitting.  Always, always make sure the tig welder knows what he is doing.  My first guy did not, and basically ruined the part.  The guy that has been trying to repair it, evidently can't get it clean enough to stop all the worm holes (even by trying to grind it all back down).  I'll have to start that hose from ground up again, with the good tig guy.  Been sorta aggravating that the first guy has cost me so much time and effort because he didn't know what he was doing.
Cooling... I noticed the fan would have to kick on in normal driving, 70 mile an hour interstate (which happens always in a stock mini), but I wanted mine to cool only off airflow (if possible), unless at idle- then use the fan.  I ended up cutting a bit more of the grill open and it made it significantly better - fan did not cut on (even though half the radiator is not in direct airflow).  But, the temps outside are 50-60, so I think I am still marginal when considering summer temps.  I may have to give up on my ideal of no fan during driving, or look into possibly doing some louvers or something, but they would need to be relatively un-noticeable.
Toe - the wheels were terribly out of line.  I had planned for an alignment, but it didn't work out, yet.  Jedduh and I threw some tape measures on it yesterday afternoon and revealed 3/4 to 1 an inch toe out!! Ouch.  No wonder the wheels were fighting each other.
It's really fun to drive though!  Lots of pictures to come...   
 
« Last Edit: March 26, 2018, 07:51:14 AM by Bahowe1 »

Offline Bahowe1

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #179 on: March 26, 2018, 07:49:52 AM »
I forgot to get pictures of the whole car with the front flares too, but did have one shot of a front flare.
Also, the new headlights (trucklites), although spendy, are phenomenal.  I highly recommend.

Offline 94touring

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #180 on: March 26, 2018, 09:19:30 AM »
How big of a hassle was it to get the boot handle to line up? I know that some/all? of those repros didn't line the handle up properly to the latching mechanism. 

Offline SomethingNew71

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Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #181 on: March 26, 2018, 09:37:26 AM »
Man, this is looking so good Ben. I can't wait for you to give me a spin in it at CMU59.  ;D

I meant to share this with you before you got the stereo installed. It's a "headunit-less" stereo. All you use is a small control pad that can be wired to up front, then your phone just bluetooth's to it. Justin mentioned you wanted something concealed and hidden. Same process for wiring up all the speakers but no visible headunit.

Kenwood Amp+Headunit - https://amzn.to/2I26fOo

Offline Bahowe1

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #182 on: March 26, 2018, 12:00:05 PM »
Dan, you are right, the latch holes didn't line up.  Actually, the large hole even visibly looked a bit off center.  I ended up having to walk the big latch hole over North East a good 1/4 inch or so with a rasp.  But that then got into the screw holes that hold on the handle, so I had to walk those over too.  Then I back welded to close it all back in some, and carefully worked the rasp to get back to round holes and then ground it all back flat with a disc.  It took some time, but do-able.
Actually, the hinge holes were off enough too to where I decided to use them on the boot lid and then just walk over the holes on the body.  But... the body holes had been previously 'repaired', so it's possible those holes were off anyways.

Thanks Cole!  We'll certainly go for a spin.  Justin told me what you were doing for tunes and I considered that route.  I ended up with the stereo though because I end up listening to the radio a good bit, sometimes CDs and don't pay for any of the services (not as savvy as you).  But... the head unit I put in is already broken... way to go Sony!  At least they are sending me a replacement... but I am a little concerned that a 'today standard manufacturing' might not withstand the vibrations and bumps of the mini without some damping.  I'll try this new one and see what happens.

Offline BruceK

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #183 on: March 26, 2018, 12:58:06 PM »
Is it possible the boot lid uses different screws because it is a reproduction part?    (not Heritage?)  If it was made elsewhere that would account for the metric threads. 
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
2007 Triumph Bonneville

Offline Bahowe1

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #184 on: April 03, 2018, 08:04:49 AM »
Bruce, I'm sure that is possible.

This weekend, I didn't do a whole lot on the mini - just re-wired a relay since it will run the radiator fan for both the AC line pressure, and coolant temp.  And I put on the side view mirrors (funny how shiny they are compared to the car).  I also worked on the AC line some more where the one weld was giving me a fit.  I think I have it mostly taken care of now, but can't yet charge the system because the body work is on the front end and the connections are too tight with the front end on ( I might change this as well).  At this point, I would rather drive the car and make sure it's ready for the CMU event, than take it back a part.  Oh - I got the replacement radio back in - so far, so good.  A couple more pictures with flares on...
Does anyone know a good place to get some louvers?  I've seen a couple places on line where I can buy blanks and then weld some in, but didn't know if anyone knows specifically of a place?  I would like to cut and weld in a few in front of the radiator as inconspicuously as possible.  I need some more air flow to the radiator.  It cools ok now in normal driving, but every now and again the fan has to come on.  Only about 1/4 to 1/3 of the radiator is in air flow. 
Dave, does your friend's PuP do the same with cooling?
Also header wrap.  I've seen lots of thoughts on this.  Anyone have suggestions?  It'd have to make a big difference in my case, the header is only 6-8 inches or so from the radiator. 
As I said, it's ok, but I'd like to see if I can get it to a state where it will cool itself without the radiator fan while in normal driving.  It might just not be possible - and that'll be ok if it's just the way it is.

Offline SomethingNew71

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Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #185 on: April 03, 2018, 08:19:54 AM »
I don't want you to paint the car. It looks so cool in the "multi-panel" look it has right now.

Offline Bahowe1

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #186 on: April 03, 2018, 12:44:29 PM »
Cole, get it right, it's called 'street camo'...

Offline SomethingNew71

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Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #187 on: April 03, 2018, 12:57:53 PM »
Oh well in that case you are missing a crucial part of the design.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/X5EAAOSw3h1ZV-kD/s-l300.jpg

 ;D ;D ;D

Offline Bahowe1

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #188 on: April 09, 2018, 09:04:42 AM »
Bits more done this weekend.  Got an alignment done - SO much better now.  I used some numbers MiniDave had online - except for the toe numbers - Dave what were your toe numbers again?
Modified the alternator tensioner bracket and changed the belt position - it could foul on the driveshaft during bumpy rides - all good now.
Made a new air funnel - two purposes - separate the header and radiator some, and funnel more air over to the radiator core.  Seems to help a lot.  The fan never needed to come on, but it was a cool-ish day.  A similar drive on a similar temp day needed the fan.  I also cut one more hole on the very bottom 'spoiler'? which will also get a funnel. 
I have also achieved my 500 mile test run goal!
And... got an AC hose fitting re-welded (TIG - which I don't have) and tried to fill the system.  Failed again.  Pressure got too high on the low side - must be a blockage somewhere, or somehow the expansion valve is stuck.  I betcha I have had it hooked onto the AC machine 7 times now.  Usually it failed because a weld (see previous posts), but it seems to be all nice and tidy... just gotta figure out why it wouldn't take the full charge.

Offline MiniDave

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #189 on: April 09, 2018, 09:47:29 AM »
Does the fan come on with the A/C compressor? If not it pretty much has to or the low side will go crazy....
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline Bahowe1

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #190 on: April 09, 2018, 02:54:53 PM »
Fan does not come on with the compressor.  The fan will come on off two signals - coolant temp sensor, or from the trinary switch if line pressure gets too high (like 250psi).  I called vintage air, they say for charging, it needs to have fan on.  I still don't think that'll get it.  They also said something about if the machine is charging with fluid or gas.  I have no idea.
I can certainly wire in to the relay a fan on wire when compressor is on - making it three reasons to turn on the fan.  You think this is what I should do?

Offline MiniDave

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #191 on: April 09, 2018, 03:28:18 PM »
Yes.
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline Bahowe1

Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #192 on: Today at 08:38:21 AM »
Well guys... thanks for all the help!  I made my goal...I was able to drive the car for the CMU59 event!  And it sure was fun!
I did have the tool bag out quite a bit, but I think it was reasonable.  The first spirited day, I broke the tack welds on the shifter.  a few months back, I had cut it and laid it back some and only tacked it back (didn't want to heat up all the grease in the cup).  A muffler shop at a lunch stop was able to fix me up.
Second day, I completely lost brakes.  Bit scary.  Turns out, the master cylinder went out.  Still baffled by this one, it was new-ish, installed right before I tore it down for the welding work.  Packed away nicely (better part of 2 years), reinstalled and bled out.  No problems for 500-700 miles, Yellow tag master, both circuits failed.
Next steps... take a break - do some house work! 
I still need to finish the AC charge, just to make sure it is working well... but may give up on that until after I have torn down and rebuilt it all (with nice paint!).
Weld in some reinforcing for the rear seat belt install.
Weld in tabs to fit a real dash.
Weld on tabs to hold fuel and brake lines still under the car.
Fix master and a couple other niggly issues.
I always post with pictures... but looking back through CMU59 photos... I didn't take a single picture of my car... too ugly!

Offline SomethingNew71

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Re: '70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)
« Reply #193 on: Today at 08:46:05 AM »
Well Bahowe1 we happen to have taken many of your car ourselves!