Coolant Loss?

Started by Lone Star Mini, October 05, 2017, 05:28:21 PM

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Lone Star Mini

All,   driving home a couple weeks ago I had a near complete dump of coolant as I pulled into the drive.  It came from the area under the radiator.  I'm just now getting around to finding the culprit thinking a hose blew, but I'm left scratching my head.  All hoses appear to be on tight (I did not check for cracks being hard to access). I filled the radiator with water and started the engine.. no leaks whatsoever that I can find.  In the wealth of experience out there, any ideas as to what  could make the radiator dump a lot of coolant or what I should check?  Many thanks in advance.
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

MiniDave

#1
I had a lower hose that looked like it was on good and tight but leaked like a sieve - turned out the clamp wasn't past the raised area on the stub, and under pressure it would push the hose off enough to dump.

The only way to check it was to take the clamp loose, then I could push it on properly ad retighten the hose clamp - that fixed it.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

Water pump weap hole perhaps, but that's usually a slow drip.

BruceK

Don't forget the by-pass hose.  It's possible to a crack to be hidden there - especially if you use one of those accordion versions of that hose.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Lone Star Mini

thanks all,  I've been slightly side tracked with working my other vehicle.  I will check the lower hose clamp for sure.  Where is the 'bypass' hose?    Then too, in order to test, do I simply turn on the engine and let it run a while to build pressure?
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

BruceK

#6
It's a short little hose about 3 inches long that runs down from the cylinder head to the water pump.   It is a big pain to change with the cylinder head and water pump already mounted to the block.  It's usually a good idea to install a new bypass hose when reinstalling the head.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

#7
Newer engines don't have this hose, just FYI....so if yours doesn't don't worry about it. But do change it if it has one.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Lone Star Mini

thanks gents..  hopefully I can check this out tomorrow.. 
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

Lone Star Mini

Update and asking for help....   Amid the many other crisis over the past two weeks (I thought things only hit in 3's.. more like 3 cubed), my wife's newer car alternator went out.  Wow.. I have never changed an alternator that was so challenging (posted video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELjUqr8ULnA&pbjreload=10).  After getting this task accomplished, I turned to the Mini that I recently purchased to figure out what was going on with the radiator.  The one day driving home, I had what appeared to be a major radiator explosion/leakage.  I filled the radiator with water and cranked up the engine.  I let it run for 25 minutes in attempt of building up pressure.  I even sat in the car and rev'd the engine for a long time... NOTHING.. NADA.. no coolant loss.  So I decided to check out the hoses all the same to see if I could determine what they looked like so that I could order replacement hoses.  I can't even see the hose on the bottom of the radiator...  What started off to be a coolant loss mystery turned into a closer look at the engine since I've never really studied it.  In doing so, I cleaned up the lower engine block so that I could determine where the oil leak was coming from..   This engine area is much different than the other one I dismantled for restoration..   I have a few pictures coming with questions / concerns..   Any help is appreciated...  This is the mini in question..  it is titled a '65, but I know it's not. I would love to to figure out / learn how to determine it's real year...  I'm guessing late '80's or early '90's

Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

Lone Star Mini

There is a cracked 'cap'.  This cap goes nowhere and I'm wondering if I can order this cap.  I've not seen this nor do I know what the correct terminology is for for it.  when I look at Mini Spares, there are quite a few radiator hoses for specific engines.  I'm not sure which to order.  I believe and was told this was a 1275 engine so which upper and lower hoses do I purchase?  Along with that.. what is the best way to replace not only the lower hose, but all the hoses... do I need to pull the entire radiator in order to replace the hoses?
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

Lone Star Mini

In addition to hose replacement, I tried to figure out where the oil leak was coming from.  After cleaning the engine, I found that the likely leak was coming from an area near the driver's side engine mount.  Upon further inspection, I found something that looks most concerning.... what appears to be a separation in whatever attaches to the side of the engine block.  This does not look normal??   is this fixable and/or in dire need of major engine repair?
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

Lone Star Mini

leaks, boots and cracks.. oh my..     I found bolt missing from the drive shaft connection..    Then another concern is what appears to be a separation between the inner wings and the sub-frame.  is this normal?  Then the L/H inner wing looks all busted up..  dang it all.. 
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

Lone Star Mini

I found that both L/H and R/H steering shaft boots are totally broken.  Should I replace the entire drive shaft?
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

Lone Star Mini

All kinds of loose connectors and vent hoses every where..     I don't know what most of these go to nor can I guess.. then the one particular gauge in near the l/h driver's side fire wall does not even work..   50.gif.      This was a lot to put out there I know..   but I would appreciate any information and/or help.  Meanwhile, I have to return focus on my daily driver..  I was hoping to make this Mini my daily driver for a while, but now I'm not sure with all these issues.. ???!!!
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

MPlayle

#15
To start off: You have an early-to-mid 1990's SPI converted to carb with all of the extra wiring for sensors no longer used still in place. 

(Edits will be made due to back referencing the original posts to see the pictures.)

The heater hose arrangement has been modified to use the old take-off on the head over the #4 cylinder rather than from the sandwich plate under the thermostat housing.  Determining the correct lower radiator hose for the current arrangement will take a bit more examination.  The "cracked cap" designated in the one picture is the original heater take-off from the sandwich plate being capped off.

Many of the unused connectors are left over from the SPI system.

The "vent lines": the one on the carb is the float bowl overflow line and should be made longer to direct any fuel overflow well away from the header and exhaust system, the other may be left over from the SPI system - depends on where the other end turns out to be.

The "non-functional" gauge appears to be connected to a fuel pressure regulator.  The regulator is probably stepping down the original FI fuel pump pressure (about 15 psi) to the 2.5 - 3 psi required by the carb.

Any 1275 upper radiator hose will work.

The gaps between the lower lips of the inner fenders and the tops of the subframe rails is normal.

The one inner wing looks like they cut some out for access to something - possibly motor mount or ?

The oil leak may be due to the "separation" noted as it looks to be one of the longer timing cover bolts was used in the wrong place, leveraging the cover out slightly - possibly compromising the seal to the block.  It requires removing the radiator minimum to fix.  The fix is usually fairly simple - swapping one of the shorter bolts for that longer one.



Lone Star Mini

Dude.. I love you.. as you gave me a little hope that it's not as bad as it appears..  I will have to study your comments and do my best to learn.  Wow.. so you believe I have a 1275 SPi engine?   that is the last thing I thought I had..  I have no idea how where to go from here, but I'll learn one step at a time.. Thanks MPlayle!! 
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

MiniDave

#17
Michael hit all the high points, def a 1275.......

You can reach the lower rad hose, the upper end is off the water pump, the rad end can be reached from above, if the clamp has a hex you can use a socket on a long extension, otherwise you'll need a long straight screwdriver......go down the rear side of the radiator to reach the clamp.

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Lone Star Mini

Thanks Dave..  i'll try again, but it may have to wait until Saturday.  I was hoping to get the hoses ordered, but again I'm not sure which ones.  The top hose looks common, but there are quite a few variations of the lower hose.  Then what about that cap.. I dunno?
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

MiniDave

#19
Quote from: Lone Star Mini on October 29, 2017, 04:10:17 PM
I found that both L/H and R/H steering shaft boots are totally broken.  Should I replace the entire drive shaft?

why replace the driveshafts?

you can buy new steering rack boots, just clean all the dirt out and lube it before you put the new ones on......replacing/removing the steering rack requires at least lowering the rear of the subframe, and is a bit of a PITA to get out and back in again.

For that cap coming off the thermostat housing, go here.....

http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?Page=89

part number  2-298

Victoria British does not sell Mini parts per se, but a lot of MG Midget/Sprite engine parts interchange.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

jedduh01

Lone star : Bravos on the Volvo Alternator repair video = Being a Volvo Fan + considering a3.2 xc90 for family life knowing what that job involves is great to have. Excellent editing and video additions.

Your mini items are sort of Typical,  typical of DPO's  (dumb previous owners)  Some things just happen from neglect too.

Rear differential housing missing bolt  = Note = its a 5/16-18TPI + Course thread bolt for that housing = 1.25 inch or 1.0 inch should suffice.  Any bolts that thread into the alum housing are coarse thread.   Normal Hardware store bolt will work just fine.
(there also SHOULD be a bracket off that bolt - to that exhaust bracket ).   bend some nice metal to not put any undue tress on it and it will be fine. Probably why it came out in the first place.  Use thread locker too. (not too tight=- Alum threads will strip fast!

Steering rack boots = Easy.

   Put a few Oz of 90WT gear oil back in the rack when re booted = ( to fill the Passenger side floorboard will be a grommet and a hole,  under that grommet is a plug in the rack.   Remove plug= add fluid= SLOWLY   Syringe works for me.    90 wt simply lubricates the rack . Not alot = just having fluid in there.

yoru inner finder wings are supposed to ' float'  or just hang there... not affixed to really antyhing.  Clearly they have been ' worked with' for whatever reason = Not the end of the world

Upper rad hose = SPI = pick one up for a 90's SPI Will fit perfectly.


Other observation:
  I see your upper arms are JUST ABOUT touching your bump stops ..   This is indicative of  Aged / Collaped  suspension Cones... these give a rather Harsh ride + and in many cases the car rides on the bump stops most of the time or expically when turning.
  Consider Cone replacment for a MUCH better compliant ride = Thes suspension needs to move.
New cones + Hi Lo's (if you dont already have) for the adjustability,.



LarryLebel

your brake servo hydraulic fluid looks a little low

MPlayle

Here is the thread on this forum where I documented the conversion I did.  It includes notes on the wiring cleanup I did.

http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=960.0


Lone Star Mini

@Dave.. thanks for the VictoriaBritish site.  I was hopeful that I could only replace the boots, but I can't say what proper ball joints should look like.  With all the grease gone for who knows how long, I figured they might be messed up.

@Jedduh01, thanks for all the tips and compliment.  I hope I can give back to the Mini forum at some point too. Currently I'm just getting my feet wet and learning all that I can.  I will be ordering the hoses from Mini Spare so maybe I can find the exhaust bracket too.  Interesting about the plug location in the floor board.  I will look for it.  I'm not sure how you can tell about the cones, but  thank you.  I will look into this as well.  If I need to replace them, I will with my up and coming order.

@bikewiz, I've heard the term Sandwich plate before.. not sure exactly what this is.  ugh.. so much to learn

@ Larrylebel, not sure you have you know, but I'm guessing you're looking at the small reservoir above the brake booster (didn't even know I had the brake booster)

@ MPlayle, thanks for the link, I will definitely go through it and try to learn.

While I must get this car up and running, I have my daily driver to repair first which takes me away from the Minis..     I greatly appreciate your help and input.
Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

MiniDave

#24
The sandwich plate is what's between the thermostat housing (top) and the cylinder head.

We may have crossed wires, the link I provided for Victoria British was for a cap for the nub on the thermostat housing, which has the cracked one.

Those ball joints inside the rack are pretty durable, you should be able to clean them up, lube them then install the new boots, but do add the gear oil too.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad