Lone Star Mini Restoration

[94touring]

I have a hobart 210. Does both gas and flux in 220  They have newer models that are 120 or 220 with an adapter.  Sometimes flux comes in handy for deeper penetration on thick steel or outside if it's windy.  As far as gas goes I had to put down a hefty deposit on the bottle but the gas is cheap.  Could have bought my own bottle for the price but then if something actually did go bad it's not covered.

[Lone Star Mini]

For a few years now I've had my eyes set on the Millermatic 211 which does both 120 and 220 (has an adapter).  I have friends with both a Lincoln and an Eastwood welder and they seem to be quite happy with theirs.  Therefore I'm looking at the Eastwood system right now.  Yes, I would definitely go with a Mig system even though it's quite windy all the time here where flux would help.

[MiniDave]

The Eastwood is OK too, you'll do fine with it, but I'd still recommend the gas over flux.....it's no big deal to erect a wind block out of cheap tarps if needed. It sounds like you're getting good advice from your welder buddy, so I'd go with him....how much are they asking for the miller 211? That's a nice machine that you can grow into as time goes along.

If you buy a good welder now, it will serve you the rest of your life. A small gas bottle is not that expensive, and the only thing you have to do is have it tested every 10 years or so....if you rent you don't.

I don't believe in cheap, throw away tools, I've had some of my Craftsman and Snap On tools for over 50 years now......

[Lone Star Mini]

Off topic, but a bit of a set-back on Mini progress as now I have to focus on my daily driver..  She looks worse than she is, but it was a kick to the gut for sure.  I didn't think quick enough to pump the brakes, and I slid about 20 feet before I hit an SUV.  Relatively slow..  approx. 20mph, but the SUV was too high for my bumper.  The Police officer told me that if my bumper would have hit, I would have had zero damage..  the police officer wanted to buy my car after showing me all his phone pictures of his Mercedes just like mine..   On the bright side, I will get more in depth experience on replacing panels and an entire front section... dang it all..   

[MiniDave]

240D or 300D?

[BruceK]

Randy, so sorry that happened.   Could've been much worse.  Well, like you said, this will give you some experience -  I understand virtually any part is available for any Mercedes, so  you won't have to worry about that. 

Dave, I saw Randy's car a coupe of weeks ago.  It's a 240D with a manual transmission.

[BruceK]

 Just occurred to me you could change to Euro headlights if that interests you.

[Lone Star Mini]

Bruce is correct..  240D and it was a full German spec imported directly from Germany (not by me).  I think I've found a Donor Car up in Terrell Texas, but need to wait on insurance.  The adjuster came out today and was incredibly kind and helpful.  Just as my daughter passed her learners permit too... oh well, guess she'll have to drive the Mini more.. 

[BruceK]

Randy, I don't know a lot about Mercedes, but with those big bumpers and round headlights, it looks like your 240D might be a US-spec one rather than one made for the German market.   

[Lone Star Mini]

You're right Bruce on the headlights.  The last owner swapped them out of personal preference and she did not keep the Euro light assemblies.  I think there is something with the bumpers too, but I can't remember that.  I've spent a little time hunting and procuring parts.  The China Blue is extremely hard to find and somewhat rare.  All the same, I've managed to get the parts and now semi-return to the Mini in that I am seriously looking at both a pressure washer and the kit that Dan mentioned in order to strip the new parts for refinishing.  The pressure washers that I originally bookmarked will not meet the 4 GPM that Dan specified, therefore I had to start over.  Wow, there are many reviews, both good and bad, for nearly all of them.  It's almost like a gamble choosing a 4gpm pressure washer...   I'm going back to look at Dan's pictures on the washer he selected... 

[94touring]

I did a ton of research on pressure washers. And since it was a big investment settled on the Generac brand.  If I'm not mistaken part of the reason why was because it's U.S. built and the motor is supposed to be badass.  I recently changed the oil in both the pump and motor (uses two different types fyi) and after extensive use seems to start easier and easier over time. 

[Lone Star Mini]

Can't stand being at a stand-still on the various projects I have going.  So I meandered out to see if I could do anything on the Mini. I ended up removing the gear selector box from the shell, the left vent grille and the padding cover on the dash.. that sucker was glued in place and was kind've a bear to remove.  I failed to remove both the right vent grille and the right headlight bowl because those screws are bloody welded in place (not really I hope).  I then went to remove the roof liner, but found these rods and didn't want to tug too hard and risk bending the rods.  How do these things come out?

Then another surprise...just after finding this awesome forum and the last local mini for sale, I may have found another classic mini for sale.  My Mercedes parts source guy down in south Texas tells me his neighbor is selling a classic mini.  I've inquired, not that I can afford another project right now.

[94touring]

Pull inward and the rods bow enough that the plastic ends come out of their holes.

[Lone Star Mini]

I guessed that, but again, didn't want to pull too hard.  Thanks Dan.   

[Willie_B]

I think those stays are all different so remember which came for where.

[MiniDave]

Willie B is right, they are color coded......but I have no idea which goes where, but the order is...

yellow
blue
black
white
red

[Lone Star Mini]

Thanks, they definitely are color coded and I broke the very first one..dang it all.  I only pulled out one side as I plan to take a picture tomorrow in the light.

[MiniDave]

You can buy the individual replacements by color tip from MiniSpares, they're about $12 each....or you can buy a whole new set.

[Lone Star Mini]

I do believe I'm near completion on the rotisserie front support structure.  All front pieces are now welded and painted w/ labels ready to identify each piece/location (for memory later).  Once the paint cures well enough, I'll install the entire front end of the rotisserie.  When doing the fit check of the boot support pieces, I found that one of the plates was welded 90 degrees out.  Dang it all... 50.gif  I wait what seems like forever for a friend's help (welding) and then I go and get careless.  Now I have to back step and rework this.  Just maybe over Thanksgiving, I'll actually be able to spin the shell.  Of course I'm a little nervous that this support structure won't resolve the issue.  Meanwhile I'm picking up small odds & ends for my own future welding supply.. (magnets, wire brushes) as I think Harbor Freight is good for this kind of stuff. 

[BruceK]

How's your Mercedes coming along?

[MiniDave]

He's making progress......

[Lone Star Mini]

thanks for asking Bruce. . As Dave mentioned, yes, the W123 is coming along.  I would be further, but my bottle neck is spot welding the core support to the chassis.  I can't a welder just yet so I may just have to find someone and pay them to come do the job.  Although I haven't been able to locate anyone willing to do on-site welding...  I will broaden my search.  The picture Dave posted was after fit check of the hood.  I had to put the hood on to make sure the latch fell perfectly with the core support.  Would hate to weld the core support only to find the hood latch had a mis-match.  Once the core is welded, all else will go fast (except painting).

[Lone Star Mini]

Semi-Success and I think I may know my next problem..  With the help of a friend welding pieces for me, I was able to fit check the boot support.  I then took the rotisserie for a test spin and found it rather difficult.  While it works, the support structure is not doing exactly as I had hoped.  When the shell is upside down, it is out of Level / sagging in the middle.  My next trial and error effort will be to adjust the fine tune threaded rod.  I have a question to the experience out there.  Are the suspension attach points just above the wheel wells the exact same height from front to back?  If they are, this is where I miscalculated.  I thought the rear was higher than the front by approx. 4-5 inches.  If there are suppose to be the same height, this is definitely my problem causing me to rework the rear support structure yet again... I'll get there eventually...

[Lone Star Mini]

I remeasured the difference in height between the front attach points and the rear.  I was correct the first time as the rear is 3+ inches lower than the front.  I'm scratching my head over this.  I believe the pivot point should be near center line of Mini shell. Although  I believe that the shell is definitely bottom heavy, therefore if I could get the pivot point lower, then that may be ideal.  No matter what I do, I have to get the Mini high enough off the ground so that it clear the cross beam below it upon rotation.  I'll keep at it... 

[Lone Star Mini]

Not sure my last post added the picture.. trying again..