Lone Star Mini Restoration

[94touring]

I use virtually all magnum panels.  They work just fine.  In fact not all heritage panels simply slap in. 

[Lone Star Mini]

This is so confusing for the new guy.  I respect quite a few of you guys.  Honestly, there is no true way for me to have proper working knowledge until after I've done a full restoration with multiple panel makes

[94touring]

Did you buy the entire windscreen scuttle or just the end repair pieces? Cause you only need to repair the ends. 

[Lone Star Mini]

Yes,   I learned that lesson a little late too.  I purchased the entire windscreen scuttle.

[94touring]

Yeah cause heritage doesn't make just the ends.

[gr8kornholio]

Agree with the confusing.  I'm not a body guy and just never will be that was re-affirmed when starting the strip of my shell.  Big kudos to you for taking it all on.  I've had a blast rebuilding these subframes though, even with doing most of it twice, but it is a fabulous learning experience.

[Lone Star Mini]

Was a little overwhelmed today..  so, I've changed directions (probably won't be the last time I do that).  Despite the expert advise and suggestions of doing a repair to the Inner wings, I am going to replace them entirely.  The main reason is because both inner wings already have patch work accomplished.  That patch work in addition to my own will simply make for a large area of patches which I don't want.  Therefore since I'm going to replace the entire inner wing panel, I now need to order my new outer wings and front panel so that everything can be aligned together.  I will have to save up for that purchase as I just used funds for other panels that I'm waiting on.  So...  since I already have floor panels and I've ordered panels for the L/H side of the car, I'm going to turn focus on the L/H floor and door post/sill.

@Dan.. thanks for posting your 85 Tahiti Blue projects because the pictures there really helped me today.. I wish I would have found it before I posted my first video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcvNRxDt1VM

Dan, what exactly does the Air Punch tool do?  I'm going to study this thread of your Dan and so far, I don't see (only on page 4 or 5), any braces for the shell(?). 

I'm thinking my next step is to figure out some braces and weld them in.  I will have to ask a friend to come over and weld since I don't have my welder yet.

So.. I've started up my 'Lone Star Mini' YouTube page.  I've gotten a little ahead of myself, but I hope the videos will remain semi-short and offer something useful.  The idea is to show a perspective from a 'Novice' point of view giving hope to anyone out there.  My videos will improve and I was going to make an introduction video today, but I got  side tracked with an a-Post assembly video (posted above).  My goal is 1 year.  That seems incredibly fast for someone who knows nothing, but I have to put something out there otherwise, nothing will get done.

[94touring]

Air chisel? Or air hole punch? The chisel breaks welds and the hole punch saves time drilling holes to plug weld.

[Lone Star Mini]

Air chisel? Or air hole punch? The chisel breaks welds and the hole punch saves time drilling holes to plug weld.

The air punch..  Ah.. so you pop holes for spot welds.. got it. Thank you.

[MiniDave]

um....well when you weld in a hole like that it's actually a plug weld. A spot weld is when you press two pieces of metal between two electrodes and pass a current thru the spot, fusing them together at that spot - hence the term spot weld. You use the air chisel to split the two pieces of metal apart at that seam.... where you weld two pieces together all along an edge is called a seam weld.

[tsumini]

Sorry Dave, from the interwebs.
This is what we always called a seam weld. Combustion chambers (burner cans) turbojet engines had miles of these welds.
"Seam welding is a variation of resistance spot welding. In resistance seam welding, however, the welding electrodes are motor driven wheels as opposed to stationary rods. The result is a 'rolling' resistance weld or non-hermetic seam weld."

[94touring]

Pop holes for "plug" welds as Dave says.   At least that's what I call them.   Unless you have a 220 spot welded don't bother with the 110.  Any car I've gotten where they used a low powered spot welder, I can rip the welds by hand.   A plug weld is pretty damn beefy if you do it right.  In fact a real pain to bust, usually requires some cutting.  The problem you will have being new to this, is getting your plug welds to lay flat and flush so that they don't require grinding.  Areas where you can't see the welds may not be worth your time making them look clean, but certainly along the wing lip in the engine bay is an area you'll want to dress up.

[Lone Star Mini]

Gents.. thanks for the precise welding names. 
Can anyone suggest additional shell bracing that I need to do?  With all the rotted areas, I don't have a great deal of choices.
- Brace #1 runs from L/H Inner A-post to R/H Inner A-post
- Brace #2 runs from L/H B-post to R/H B-post
- Brace #3 will run from Brace #2 diagonally up to the upper A-post on both sides
- Brace #4 will run from Brace #1 diagonally up to Brace #3.

I want to cut away half the floor panel and door sills first..   Will this be enough bracing or do I need to consider more?  Should any bracing run diagonally from L/H B-Post to R/H A-Post?

[Lone Star Mini]

Panels....  What I've learned after communications with both Mini Spares and Mini Sport.   This info may be common knowledge with the hundreds/thousands of forum posts, but I only have so much time a day/week to research.  Besides, my restoration thread (like my videos) are from a novice perspective.  Therefore I have to learn what you guys have known for years.

While most of the folk reading this may already have experience working with panels from various manufacturers, I have no experience working with any metal panels, much less Mini specific body panels.  The first experience I have in working with Metal alone was building the rotisserie attach structure.  Therefore while you guys may be able to manipulate a Magnum panel perfectly well, I need all the help I can get.  As for panel fitment, I understand that Heritage are the best and M-Machine panels run a close second while Magnum panels do need more manipulation.  Both Mini Spares/Sport have confirmed this common knowledge of manufacture fitment, therefore I now know it's not just a personal preference from different folk with various skill levels.    Given my lack of experience, I aim to stay with Heritage as much as possible and then use M-Machine panels when I cannot get Heritage or my wallet doesn't agree with my desire.   Before understanding the true differences, my first panel purchase (floor panels) resulted in Magnum panels.  For all future purchases, I had to contact Mini Spares/Sport to find out how exactly their panels are identified via P/Ns.  I realize some of the descriptions state "Genuine" or "Non Genuine", but I needed to know, if possible, how to discern between Magnum and M-Machine.  Then with the added cost of overseas shipping, I don't care to make mistakes.  Not having an international calling plan, I have to rely on email communications.

It's worth noting that both Mini Spares and Mini Sport were quick to help educate me.  I wish I could reach M-Machines directly.

M-Machine:
No response..  Perhaps my emails to them are going to their Spam folder.  While I know all they offer are the M-Machine panels, I understood that I could order them direct.  I don't know how much these panels are relative to Heritage or Magnum because I can't reach them...   

Mini Spares:  Part Numbers beginning with:
'MS' – indicates mostly aftermarket from Magnum or M-Machine.  There is no way to determine whether Magnum or M-Machine so you must contact them if you want one or the other
'ALA' – indicates mostly Heritage, unless ending with 'MS' which denotes aftermarket
'HMP' – indicates Heritage
'M' or 'MSP' – indicates Mini Spares own re-engineered panels.  I know nothing at all about these panels...

Mini Sport:  Part Numbers beginning with:
'40-xx' - indicate Magnum panels
'MCR' – usually indicates M-Machine panels
'14A' or 'HMP' or 'CZH' indicates Heritage panels

[MPlayle]

I will definitely say "Thank you!" for finding that information about the panels.  It is new knowledge to me.  I have not tried to undertake learning to do bodywork.

[Lone Star Mini]

My latest is that I finally realized that the shell was not completely bare.  My daughter and I spent a few hours removing all the sound dampening off the floor, bench and wheel wells.  As for cleaning metal, I've learned which tools I prefer.  I had to use a chisel to scrape off the thick dampening.  Then I used a wire abrasive wheel to remove all the residual tar or whatever the sound dampening material was.  Once the floor was clean, I used a nylon abrasive wheel to strip the paint off.  I love those Nylon wheels!!    Once all the sound dampening was removed, I was able to truly identify just how bad the floor panel are.  I thought I was going to replace about half the floor panel, but now I'm going to replace almost the entire floor (except the tunnel).  I have a mixture of Heritage and Magnum panels so I guess I'll learn and develop some sort of preferences as to which panels I like.  Perhaps after I develop a little skill, I realize as Dan is saying in that the panels do not necessarily make a big difference.   I simply need to dive in because everybody has their own preferences based on skill level and experiences.  I've received quite a lot of suggestions via email, youtube and forums.  All the suggestions and advice is well received, but it will take my own experience to determine the restoration details.  The most important thing is that I'm slowly learning.

FYI...  I gave a 'Thank You' shout out to a few folks on this forum via my Youtube Intro video.  I should have added a few others like Bruce, but the mind is forgetful when trying to capture a video in one-take.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEui0RxPQKM

[MiniDave]

Love the vid, what's the latest on the Mini?

[Lone Star Mini]

Hey Now MiniDave...   So here's one you might really like. l I just returned from the Great Smoky Mountains.  While trying to get away from my everyday routine, I found myself around the most incredible minis...  a Mini Pickup with 1100hp...   I made a video of it.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9G0eW3Y5cJc&t=462s

To answer your question:
I had to tear down and rework the rotisserie.  It's now working wonderfully.
I then braced the floor with a removable bracing system (not welded).
I then had engine problems on the other mini of which I'm waiting on a few small parts.
Now I'm waiting on floor panels, etc before I can continue.

I need to update my restoration here... 

[MiniDave]

That pickup has been on the show car circuit for years, I've seen it too.

Glad to hear you're still moving forward. Did you decide not to do any more video's?

[Lone Star Mini]

Hey Dave,   Oh no, I will be videoing every aspect of the restoration. I have made quite a few mini connections via YouTube, thus for my lack of forum entries.  I need to bring my post up to current status.  Will try to do that this week.  Of late, my videos have been of my education to automotive everything, but all mini related. 

[MiniDave]

Cool, mine are mostly short vids of something running or some finished bits.

[Lone Star Mini]

I have watched a tone of youtube videos showing various shell bracing.  Until I have more experience under my belt, I tend to believe that most of the shell bracing is way over-kill.  I suppose too much won't hurt other than restricting access.  With that said, I've seen some incredible welded bracing that takes up so much room such that a person is unable to access anything on the interior.  Therefore since I don't have a welder (yet) and I wanted to move forward, I designed my bracing system to be removable.  I believe it's more than sufficient to support the shell when replacing floor panels and I can remove a side at a time if needed.  For attach points, I utilized the existing holes/threads from the door lower hinge points and the seat belt in the companion bins.  In addition to the bracing, I made one cross-member which serves as dual purpose.  It will help restrict scissor action and will help with alignment of the new floor panel.  Currently I have an angle that picks up existing holes in the tunnel which I believe will help when fitting the new floor panel.  I had a little fun with adding the persons name where I picked up a tip or received a suggested comment.  The names make me smile each time I see it...   
Lessons learned:
- by asking simple questions to local steel company, I was able to pick up more steel that I've yet to use.  I found out that the steel company has "drop-off" material from custom orders that can be purchased at a drastically reduced priced.  Additionally, they have loads of steel in a dumped area that can be purchased at a fraction cost.

I'm creating videos of all my work:  This particular video covers a tad more than just the bracing.  I will get better at the video coverage and definitely shorten them.     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fztnN9ZUxLM&t=720s

[Lone Star Mini]

At the same time of designing the brace system, I decided I needed a center beam running through the shell from front jig support to rear jig support to help prevent any shell sag.  The jig was simply not operating to my level of satisfaction and the center beam can act as a support if I need other alignment or bracing tools.  when I added the center beam, my rear parcel shelf then became useless and I could not use it.  I thought I could disregard the rear boot support, but it turned out that it was needed.  Therefore thanks to another youtuber, I learned that a gusset brace going to the lower bench seat belt holes would suffice vs parcel shelf.  It worked out really well and I can now spin the shell with ease.  It was worth the added effort I believe to take a step back and rework the rotisserie.  I've had quite a few personal emails asking about the jig and suggestions.  This tells me that there are other people out there, like myself, who are new and learning. Therefore my youtube  from a novice perspective has been beneficial for both my memory and others like myself.

Jig Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1E46ofXc0wA&t=221s

[MiniDave]

Whew, you've got that thing braced up now!

When I  did my Jag, I was really concerned with this cause I literally took off the entire bottom of the passenger compartment all at once, so I welded it in, and cross braced from the corners of the windshield to the back and across the car too. Sucker was NOT gonna move on me!

[Lone Star Mini]

well.. that's what I will be doing.. replacing the entire floor panel.  I'm anxious to get moving...