Clutch Slave Refresh

Started by Flyinace2000, May 05, 2017, 03:30:11 PM

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Flyinace2000

My clutch slave cynlinder is "Sweating" fluid and needs bleeding way to often.  Gonna refresh everything from the hardlines to possibly the arm.  Below are some photos of my clutch arm.  Worth replacing?  New one from MiniSpares is only $25.  I'll also be getting a new hose and new slave. 

http://imgur.com/a/KTOES

94touring

Probably nothing wrong with the arm unless the clevis pin is sloppy.

MiniDave

Usually it's the pin that wears, look carefully at the shiny side of the ball end, if it's worn flat you need a new one. Definitely get new clevis pins and grease them before installing them.

New slave cylinders are really cheap, I wouldn't bother rebuilding it. I rebuilt mine once and while it didn't leak a drop of fluid,  it got air in it after only a few miles and wouldn't shift till I bled it again.....and again.....and again.....a new one fixed the problem once and for all.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Flyinace2000

Quote from: MiniDave on May 05, 2017, 04:07:27 PM
Usually it's the pin that wears, look carefully at the shiny side of the ball end, if it's worn flat you need a new one. Definitely get new clevis pins and grease them before installing them.

New slave cylinders are really cheap, I wouldn't bother rebuilding it. I rebuilt mine once and while it didn't leak a drop of fluid,  it got air in it after only a few miles and wouldn't shift till I bled it again.....and again.....and again.....a new one fixed the problem once and for all.

Yeah a new slave, not a rebuild.  For $40 why bother rebuilding. 

The arm def has a bit a of a shiny flat spot.  Might just replace it with all new pins as well.  For $100 i can be sure everything is right and new.

gr8kornholio

Quote from: 94touring on May 05, 2017, 03:32:09 PM
Probably nothing wrong with the arm unless the clevis pin is sloppy.

Guess where my brain is today, cause this taken out of context sounds really funny.  :-X
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

94touring


MPlayle

Speaking of clutch slave and line refreshing ...

Dan, where did you get the LHD braided lines you used on Flur for the clutch-master-direct-to-slave and brake-master-to-proportioning-valve?  I may want to go that route on the Moke when the time comes.


94touring

Pretty sure that was a kit from minispares.

MPlayle



MiniDave

#10
Yes, I think all the clutch master cylinders are the same thru the years. However the brake M/C's got a little interesting as the years went along, later ones had metric fittings....where the rest of the car didn't!   :-[ 8.gif ::)
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Flyinace2000

Well in that case the long banjo cable seems like the way to go since it would eliminate a connection point.

Flyinace2000

Wow almost every part was in terrible condition.  Pushrod looks to have been extended and bent, end of the arm was worn down, and both clevis pins worn down.

http://imgur.com/a/4PCnX

MiniDave

Yep, all that play can add up to a clutch that just doesn't work. Do you know the right way to set the clearance, Clarence?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

#14
That looks to be a lot added to that push rod.

Edit:
Check the inside of the throw out bearing plunger for wear also.  With as much wear as is on the knob of the arm, there is likely also wear inside the plunger.

The arm on the 998 I am "refreshing" was like that and the plunger had significant wear to match.

Flyinace2000

Quote from: MPlayle on May 12, 2017, 07:18:18 AM
That looks to be a lot added to that push rod.

Edit:
Check the inside of the throw out bearing plunger for wear also.  With as much wear as is on the knob of the arm, there is likely also wear inside the plunger.

The arm on the 998 I am "refreshing" was like that and the plunger had significant wear to match.

Yeah not sure why i didn't just order one, but i didn't.  So i'll see how much better things are and order one during my next UK order.  I reallyneed a local parts supplier

MiniDave

Yeah, the odd thing is it doesn't help really...the length of stroke is determined by the master and slave, and the length of the clutch arm. All lengthening the push rod does is move the piston further down into the slave cylinder bore, it doesn't give it more stroke.

Do check the plunger in the wok too while you're ordering parts....

I can get a lot of parts from Victoria British, but unique to Mini things like the clutch they can't help with. Where are you located, ace? Moss has warehouses on both the east and west coasts.....for small parts like this it might be worth it to buy local.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Flyinace2000

Quote from: MiniDave on May 12, 2017, 11:02:58 AM
Yeah, the odd thing is it doesn't help really...the length of stroke is determined by the master and slave, and the length of the clutch arm. All lengthening the push rod does is move the piston further down into the slave cylinder bore, it doesn't give it more stroke.

Do check the plunger in the wok too while you're ordering parts....

I can get a lot of parts from Victoria British, but unique to Mini things like the clutch they can't help with. Where are you located, ace? Moss has warehouses on both the east and west coasts.....for small parts like this it might be worth it to buy local.

I'm in Northern New Jersey.  Moss used to have a warehouse about 15 minutes from my house.  Now they are down in North Carolina.  I do use them occasionaly.  If they have stock in NC i will order, otherwise i just wait until i have a bunch of stuff and order from MiniSpare.  If i order on Sunday DHL will usually deliver by Wednesday!

MiniDave

Yep, I get similar service from MiniSpares, pretty amazing what you can do these days!

When I was doing the rustoration on my old Jag, it was early 90's, no internet to speak of and I ordered everything out of catalogs over the phone, and just waited......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Flyinace2000

Quote from: MiniDave on May 12, 2017, 12:07:41 PM
Yep, I get similar service from MiniSpares, pretty amazing what you can do these days!

When I was doing the rustoration on my old Jag, it was early 90's, no internet to speak of and I ordered everything out of catalogs over the phone, and just waited......

How barbaric! 11.gif

MiniDave

I didn't get my first computaterer till 1995, although I had been using them in one form or another at work since the late 70's (punch card inventory) - I was a late bloomer.  ;D
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Flyinace2000

Quote from: MiniDave on May 12, 2017, 01:10:11 PM
I didn't get my first computaterer till 1995, although I had been using them in one form or another at work since the late 70's (punch card inventory) - I was a late bloomer.  ;D

Quick update.  Went for a drive and wow what a difference.  New catch point is about 2" from the floor instead of 1/4".  Pedal feels is much more linear and consistent.  The smallest movement on the pedal translates instantly to the slave.  Best improvement i've seen for <$140 in parts and 2 hours of labor.

BruceK

Quote from: Flyinace2000 on May 14, 2017, 04:49:11 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on May 12, 2017, 01:10:11 PM
I didn't get my first computaterer till 1995, although I had been using them in one form or another at work since the late 70's (punch card inventory) - I was a late bloomer.  ;D

Quick update.  Went for a drive and wow what a difference.  New catch point is about 2" from the floor instead of 1/4".  Pedal feels is much more linear and consistent.  The smallest movement on the pedal translates instantly to the slave.  Best improvement i've seen for <$140 in parts and 2 hours of labor.

Love it when there is no disappointment in the result.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

Flyinace2000

Quote from: BruceK on May 14, 2017, 07:09:23 AM
Quote from: Flyinace2000 on May 14, 2017, 04:49:11 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on May 12, 2017, 01:10:11 PM
I didn't get my first computaterer till 1995, although I had been using them in one form or another at work since the late 70's (punch card inventory) - I was a late bloomer.  ;D

Quick update.  Went for a drive and wow what a difference.  New catch point is about 2" from the floor instead of 1/4".  Pedal feels is much more linear and consistent.  The smallest movement on the pedal translates instantly to the slave.  Best improvement i've seen for <$140 in parts and 2 hours of labor.

Love it when there is no disappointment in the result.

One more photo.  here is the pin at the top of the throw arm.

http://imgur.com/a/5vWXf

MiniDave

Yep, you add up all those little sixteenths and thirtyseconds of an inch and you begin to see why it won't release......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad