My 65 Australian MKI

Started by gr8kornholio, February 11, 2017, 07:28:08 PM

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gr8kornholio

I believe I have tall gears cause at 70 I'm probably around 3500-4000.  Of course I could be off a little, but I know it's geared for high speed @ low revs.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

Sweet, got a notice from DHL my shipment will be here Monday.  So with their usual earlyness probably Saturday. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

So my package showed up and I was working on the fuel lines.  I bought some braided 1/4" bored lines. Problem is they appear to be no where near 1/4" opening and will not go on the 1/4" hard lines.   Am I missing something here?
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MPlayle

Both your lines (braided and hard) are 1/4" ID (inside diameter).  That means the hard lines are closer to 3/8" OD (outer diameter) and will not fit inside the 1/4" ID braided.

You would need 3/8" ID braided to go over the 1/4" ID hard lines.


gr8kornholio

Well that makes sense.  The old rubber lines say 1/4" but they look a little stretched at the fittings. Which I'm sure the braided have no chance of stretching. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

You're right, braided will not stretch at all.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

So who's running a fuel filter before their fuel pump?   Mine was just before the carb, but the new pump instructions say it should be before the pump, which makes sense.  So if you are, what filter you using?
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

cstudep

Not sure what fuel pump you ended up with but this what I use on the facet style pump on my car. Screws right into the pump.

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Fuel/Pumps/FPA906.aspx?1303&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/fuel%20filter.aspx|Back%20to%20search


gr8kornholio

Replaced the old SU points style with the one that looks like it but is electric and no points.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

I put one of those on the Inno, even after sitting with old gas in it for over a year, it still worked!   77.gif
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

G67mcs

   I'm currently running two fuel filters. One before the Facet pump to catch any debris or trash from the tanks and another in the engine compartment prior to the carb. This setup was in place when I got the car although the rear filter was clogged and the front had no physical filter inside the housing.

Garry
1967 MK2 S
2003 Mini Cooper S
2016 4Runner

MiniDave

Yep, all the FI setups I've seen run two, one before and one after. Just make sure the one before the pump is free-flowing so you don't starve the pump. I prefer the clear ones so you can see whether they're getting clogged, but all the FI systems seem to run the metal  ones, even on the suction side.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Finally did some work on the car.  Replacing everything up front from the front plate out.  Everything is going fairly smooth except getting the new timing set on.  Both pulleys fit fine on their own but the cam gear just does not want to go on as an assembly.  This is probably way easier out of the car but since I waited so long to actually buy the stuff that option is no longer possible. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

94touring

Looks nice.  How bad does your back hurt bending over doing the work?

cstudep

Quote from: 94touring on November 28, 2020, 08:55:49 PM
Looks nice.  How bad does your back hurt bending over doing the work?

No kidding, just adjusting the valves is bad enough. I can't imagine how many times I'd ram my head into the hood catch doing something like timing parts with the motor in the car.

gr8kornholio

Not bad actually.  Maybe it's the height I have the car, doesn't feel like to awkward of a bend. Also have my roller stool so a lot of it I can do sitting down.  Battery operated ratchets helping too.  O, and the hood is off the car.  Had way to much to do under it to have it in the way. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

94touring

That's the best thing about my removable bonnet, easier to work!

MiniDave

#492
It's not too bad to remove a regular bonnet, 4 nuts and it weighs nothing.....I agree getting it off and out of the way is one of the first things I do if I have any major work to do under there. I always mark the brackets before I take it apart, it makes it much quicker and easier to put it back when I'm done.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

cstudep

#493
Yeah I don't mind taking the bonnet off if i am going to be under there for a while, it's the putting it back on that I dislike. I have tried marking the brackets like you but it never seems to help much.

Dan found a much quicker way to remove the bonnet on his trip to KC, but again it's the putting it back on that may prove difficult. ;D

So how do you like that timing kit? I have been eyeing the MED alloy back plate (like the idea of the studs/nuts) and their timing cover. I see they have a redesigned belt drive as well without the tensioner. They say it's not necessary, but I do not think I have ever seen a belt drive timing setup without one. Of course those are always much larger engines with much longer belts perhaps it may not be needed on an A-series with such a short belt and a single cam? I would think it would be harder to get on as it would have to be fairly tight with such short "teeth" vs a chain setup. Much greater chance of a belt skipping a tooth vs a chain with a little slack, they also state about 15,000 miles before belt change which makes me think they must not be super tight and any amount of stretch could cause it to skip teeth.

94touring

Quote from: cstudep on November 29, 2020, 11:46:30 AM
Dan found a much quicker way to remove the bonnet on his trip to KC, but again it's the putting it back on that may prove difficult. ;D


The realignment was off a lot after removing it at 75mph. 

MiniDave

#495
Ha! Yeah, Dan's method does leave a bit to be desired for the reinstall!   ;D

This kit has a tensioner, but it's a guide as much as anything - I used it to take up the slack, but there was very little - I just moved it over to contact the belt and used my finger to put tension on it till I tightened the bolt. If you over tension these belts they fail faster, plus that makes them really noisy - sounds like a supercharger!

this is the first of these I've installed and I do like the way it's made....it's a quality bit of stuff. I don't have any issues with just running a single wide chain for that matter, as long as it's a good brand. Pre-A+ cars didn't even bother with a tensioner. Most of these cars today rarely get even 1000 miles a year on them - wearing out a chain is a very remote possibility.

I doubt skipping teeth is a consideration on these as they have a lot of wrap around the sprockets....that and as you mentioned - the short belt length

MED makes good stuff, I agree, but really spendy.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

cstudep

#496
Ah OK, so the tensioner isn't like a typical tensioner that is spring or Hydraulic operated. That makes more senses now why they would feel pretty confident eliminating it.

I didn't think about how much pulley wrap there is in this setup, but that definitely helps as well.

MED definitely makes some nice stuff. I just try to ignore the price and look at all the pretty things I want. If/when I ever go to actually order something that will be the true test on how bad I actually need it. Also the price being in pounds helps.... At least until you do the conversion math.

MiniDave

No, not on this belt setup, the idler wheel has edges on it, the sprockets don't.

Pre A+ engines had no tensioners on the chains, most of the double row chains also don't use a tensioner. A+ motors have a sort of tensioner, in that it also is not spring loaded. You simply push the guide block against the chain and tighten the bolt, much like this setup. It's not so much a tensioner as it keeps the chain from slapping as the cam rotates and has tension, then releases.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

I haven't looked at MED's belt drive kit but none of the ones MiniSpares sells have a tensioner in them.

Edit: I have to say after looking at this kit vs MED and Spares, I like this one much better - and WillieB got a hell of a deal on it!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Really like all the stuff from MED.  got some other bits for later to help with crank pressure.  Only issue so far is getting cam gear on. Probably nothing to do with the kit just a PIA with the motor in the car.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.