My 65 Australian MKI

[94touring]

I'd probably be buying new wheels if my lug holes were screwed up.

[gr8kornholio]

Another reason I think these would be best since they will fit the area but require the holes to be drilled.  Gonna make some calls around tomorrow and go from there.  I have some other possibly crazy ideas brewing.

[gr8kornholio]

Found a shop in Dallas that does steel inserts.  YAY!  Took some calling around and shops recommending other shops but got there.  Minette Enterprises.  They even have the inserts so I don't have to buy them from the UK.  But, now I need a set of 60 degree 3/8 lug nuts.  Anyone have a set I could buy?  I have 2 different size mag shank style if you need some.

Random thought, am I going to need longer studs?  Geez...

[MiniDave]

You may need longer studs, but they are a common thread size......3/8-24 .

I may have some lug nuts for you, I bought them new for Buzz but they didn't fit my wheels, lemme go make sure they're 60* nuts.......

[gr8kornholio]

Thanks Dave, I did some google and it recommends 9 turns of engagement on a stud for a lug nut to be secure.  I'm figuring that is threads/full turns. 

I looked at the studs, my minifin drums have the long ones, but those aren't scheduled to go on yet. 

Of course to fix the wheels I have to have the tires unmounted.  Then I'm sure I'll have to have them rebalanced after they are fixed.  Checked the date code and it was like 3613, so tires should be good for awhile.  If I get them to stop vibrating and we keep having this glorious weather the tread won't last.... 71.gif

[MiniDave]

Here are the ones I have, one set are new - narrow seat chrome nuts new from MiniSpares, the others are used and still good, but the outsides are scuffed up and they have the wide seat.

[gr8kornholio]

Thanks Dave, looking at them I'd say the wide seat will be what I'd need to fit the inserts.  Do you know what size socket the wide seat ones take?

[MiniDave]

13/16", smaller ones are 11/16", so only 1/16" smaller on a side.......it allows you to use them on wheels with thicker webs.

[gr8kornholio]

Ok, thanks.  I know the ones on there now are 3/4"  The new ones I got from Australia are bigger and I can't fit my socket on them.  I'll check the size on those when I get home.  Also looked up some thin walled wheel sockets.

So opinion question.  Which would be better.  Enlarge the wholes slightly and use the shank style nuts I got from Australia (pending a thin wall socket will fit them) or have 60 degree inserts installed and use the appropriate nuts.

I'd figure the 60 degree way would give more of a guarantee to centering the wheel.

[MiniDave]

Not only that, but it makes the wheels a lot easier to put on......those shank style nuts are a PITA, IMHO.

[gr8kornholio]

So, I had the wife contact the sellers wife, they became facebook friends, about any wheel issues and how the husband used to get them on.  I was right, he used his best judgement to get them centered and the wife remembers vibrations at highway speeds. 

The old engineering brain was rumbling away again today and I came up with an idea.  I used the new lugs that are larger but only fit certain holes to attempt to center the wheels.  One side hopefully worked great as they fit two opposing holes.  Now I can't tighten these down all the way because of the socket issue, but they held the wheel while I tightened the other two then pulled them out and fitting the other originals.  The other side was a little more of an adventure because it only fit one hole.  So 3/8 stud meet 3/8 drive deep socket.  Yep, found one that fit the hole the best and used it in the opposing hole.  Then tightened the other two, removed the socket and large one and tightened those two.  I'll take it for a ride to work tomorrow and see what happens.  Definitely not a permanent fix, but maybe a for now solution.

[gr8kornholio]

So far so good on the lug nut rig.  No rattling couplers on the drive to work this morning.  Will get the real test later on the way home when I go out and get it over 55.

Update:  Yep, smooth as glass.  Yay for solving the problem, now when I get time I can fix it properly.  Looking forward to driving the car more  71.gif

[gr8kornholio]

Yay for the latest.  Odd noise this time, almost sounds like a whrrrring sound, kind of like trying to start but not getting enough power.  Car starts, runs, ect, just trying to describe the sound.

Here are the symptoms:  Only does it between 1500-2000 rpm and only with the headlights on.  Below that it fades, above it goes away.  Turn the lights off, but still have the parking lights on it goes away.  I have a recording of it on my phone I'll try and upload.  Just today figured out the only when the lights on part, so I'll definitely be checking electrical connections.

[MiniDave]

Since it's associated with electrical load, it sounds like the alternator.

[gr8kornholio]

So if no loose connections then possibly going bad?  Why do car issues follow me with every vehicle I have.  Lol. 

[MiniDave]

It's an old car, things go wrong with them.....unless you start from scratch and rebuild everything you're always going to have something to do to it. Chances are it's a bad bearing in the alt, the easiest, cheapest fix is to simply replace it. Add it to your order at MiniSpares!   ;D

The green car I have - I put in a new alt, new suspension, rebuilt the upper control arms, all the bushings, rebuilt the rear control arms, all the rear brakes, all the front brakes, new wheel bearings, new ball joints, new radiator and fan belt, I replaced all the window and door seals - and yesterday I found a bad steering boot....the heater door rattles, the heater valve - that I tried yesterday for the first time in almost a year - is stuck, the windows need attention as they drag and won't go down all the way,  - and this was on a car that ran and drove fine!   ;D

Not to mention the tiny spot of rust on top of the fender that will need attention - and I'm sure there's more.

[gr8kornholio]

Sounds like my list of to do's.  It's going to be a fun winter.  I'll check out what they have as I have one more order to place with them before I have everything I need.... for now  ;D

[gr8kornholio]

Love these finicky cars.  So, got my last shipment of parts, which included the new high output alternator.  Figured had a few minutes last night so just pop it on.  Yea, not quite.  It all "fits" but would need the sleeve adjusted on one of the top mounting points and the larger fan on it hits my adjustment bracket.   Didn't feel like messing with all that so just put the noisy one back on.  Well, this morning it stopped being noisy.  Guess I..  I don't know, maybe the belt was loose, both times, but this time I got it tight enough?  Who knows.  Back to driving it.  I'll get the big one figured out later.

One question though, I know it is for the newer cars, and am wondering about the extra blade connector and other connections on the back of it and if I need them?  I'll snap a pic of it later. 

[gr8kornholio]

So, not pertaining to my mini but my truck.  I recently put a manual choke weber carb on and don't like the push pull choke cable.  The pull twist one in my mini is much nicer.  Anyone have one of these or know of a local place I can source one or similar?  Can't find any except at minispares but don't need any other parts for the mini.

[MPlayle]

I still have the old one from my Moke.  It is 31" long.  Will that be long enough?  If so, yours for postage, which should be about $6.65 (USPS flat rate envelope).

[gr8kornholio]

And that's what I was afraid of with a mini one.  That is too short, looks like I need closer to 50".  Thanks. 
Maybe mine will break in after awhile and slide a little easier

[MiniDave]

I've got a new one, but no ways it's 50'' long......

[MPlayle]

Make sure there are no sharp turns in it.  Make sure the choke mechanism on the carb itself is not binding.

Also, you can lubricate the choke cable slightly.  Most folks I've seen post about lubing the choke and accelerator cables on Minis recommend a "dry" lube such as a graphite based one or some of the lubes for key locks that are either graphite or silicon based.

There are differing approaches recommended as well.  Most seem to have the objective of getting a light amount of lube most of the length of the sleeve.

[MiniDave]

Here's one at 7 Enterprises, 46" long, twist and lock......

https://www.7ent.com/products/choke-cable-46-bhh0526.html

[gr8kornholio]

Thanks Dave and I got all excited cause I still have my prize certificate.  Then I found it and it expired Dec 31st. 

The reason NOT to order from 7ent.  22.95 for the cable 14.50 for shipping.  SERIOUSLY it's 1 lb if that cable.

Guess I'll call and see what, if anything they can do.  Not getting my hopes up.