My 65 Australian MKI

Started by gr8kornholio, February 11, 2017, 07:28:08 PM

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gr8kornholio

Yep, one wheel was like 2 ounces out I think he said.  Probably the cause of all of this, including the couplings.  Cause like I said earlier, I hadn't had it over 50 since I started to hear the rattle.  Let's just hope I haven't destroyed the new couplers that took 5 hours to put on. 

Speaking of, came across this on minimania today.

Description
If you have ever tried to use old U-bolts to re-install your yoke axle couplings, either the old rubber or modern nylon with needle bearings, then you know how terribly frustrating and time consuming it can be. NEW U-bolts are THE answer! Sold individually, eight required per car.

22.gif ensued. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MPlayle

My Moke has the yoke style couplings.  I have no idea how old the rubber couplings on it are.  I planned replacing them when I install the 998 engine, so ordered a set from MiniSport - they came with new u-bolts!

https://usa.minisport.com/gcd101-mini-rubber-drive-coupling-kit-1959-76.html


gr8kornholio

Finally got to drive it after the wheel balance.  Felt the improvement right away.  But I may have destroyed the new couplers already.  They only rattle when I shift from 3rd to 4th at above 3K rpm.  It also sounded like I could hear the start rattling above 55mph, but didn't really get a chance to drive extended at that speed.  No more vibration though.

Plan to get under there and loosen up the bolts and make sure they are all still together and aligned correctly then tighten them back up.

If I do need to replace them again, I need to get this set of pliers.


Only problem is they are sold by welding supply places and can't find them for sale on line anywhere.  And the few welding places I called weren't even sure if they could order them.   50.gif  It's really amazing that sometime you can't find stuff on the interwebs, like home HVAC parts.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

So fidgeted with the couplers again today.  Loosened them up rotated and moved the suspension around and shaved the fraying plastic off.  Tightened them back up. 

Question though, how much, if any play should there be in the shafts?  Before and after the couplers?

I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Ok, it wasn't much if any, just not completely solid which I figured was ok.  I'll find out if I get to drive it tomorrow, depends on forcast.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

You getting these daily T-storms like us?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Suppose to be by forecast, but haven't ever accumulated.  This morning there was rain in the area and stated at 80%.  So didn't drive it, so it wont rain. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

I need to mow my south acreage, but this daily rain makes it impossible - I did manage to get the grass at the house mowed at least....should have done the south part the same day but I was lazy and a bit tired so I thought I'd let it go till later in the week.......oops.

Plus I've worked Tues, Wed and Thurs this week already - this was supposed to be a one day a week job just for play money! It's not as much fun driving tired, 300K mileage cars with questionable brakes and tires in the rain, tho most days it's over by noon.

This Saturday is the A Series Run, t was supposed to happen the first weekend of May but got rained out, this weekend they say rain or shine we're doing it. Doesn't bother me in my Mini, but it might be a little tough in an open Bugeye or Midget or Seven....some of the cars coming this Sat.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Aww, mowing, the one thing I don't miss about the acre lot we had. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

Question...  What are my options for upgrading the output side of my remote shift transmission?

It currently uses the upgraded plastic and needle bearing couplers, which I have damaged due to replacing them before finding the wheel balance issue.  The car has a pretty hot 1380 motor in it.  Can the couplers continue to handle the power?  Is there a better, less likely to need replacing, option?  I know any upgrade will require opening the output case.  I do plan to do a body off repaint so that would be the time to do it.

Thoughts, opinions, suggestions.... 

Thanks.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

Convert to pot joints? They are trouble free and will handle the power no problem.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

I've seen this option on the European forums, but they start getting all over the place with why's and why nots and need this not that well maybe but if...  Wait, what was the question.

Is it as simple as replacing the output shafts with the pot joint ones and adding the pot joints?  Or are there other considerations since it's a remote box compared to a rod box.   Or does that not matter here?
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

I think you will need new output shafts and maybe even new covers - let me check into it a bit more. If you were going to do all that you should add a cross pin diff.

You might be able to swap over directly to the Hardy Spicer joints without messing with the output shafts or covers, but that will mean new axle shafts. Let me look into it.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

Switching over to pot joint outputs will require new axles as well as the items Dave mentioned.


gr8kornholio

Thanks Dave.  4.gif

That seems to follow some of the other forum conversation.  Will those new covers fit the current box?  That was also a debate point.  Of course a couple people chimed in and sad the plastic/needle bearing couplers are just fine.  But I'm guessing they've never had to change them  50.gif
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

jeff10049

The plastic needle bearing joints should be fine, Theirs no way a wheel balance issue damaged them in such a short time if ever. You might have other underlying issues. When changing them squeeze the old u bolts down to proper size in a vice first. Be careful not to over tighten the u bolts it will distort the cap and cause premature failure.  A 1380 driving through that will be fine similar size joints handle 400+ hp in rear drive cars weighing twice as much.


gr8kornholio

Ok, so if they can handle the motor I'll just keep them, thanks for the info.

Is there a way to test them for failure?  It shook pretty violently when I went to 55 and they really started to rattle after that.  It also damaged the plastic from hitting the hot exhaust so hard.

Other issues is a concern, recommendations on places to look?

I didn't think I'd over tightened them, but it is a possibility.  I'm guess it's get them just tight enough to hold them in place but no more?

I tried the squeezing, but over did it a bit and then they still didn't want to go in.  I'm getting close to getting a pair of the wide mouth vice grips I posted earlier, pretty sure they will greatly assist in the job. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

To squeeze the U-bolts down a little, put the nuts on the threads put one end down on the concrete and hit across the open part of the U with a hammer.....easy peasy.....just don't go too far.

Could you have gotten one or more of the little needle bearings out of place when you installed them? It's easy to do and that will keep the caps from going on all the way.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

It's the not to far part that becomes the problem.  I had an incident with one where the plastic cup came away from the metal that houses the bearings, but the bearing area never came apart.  Was able to get it back on. 

If I take them off, is there anything to inspect to see if they are worn?  other than the needle bearings?  Big fear is to replace them and still have an issue. 

Could anything between them and the wheel be causing them to rattle?  Or from them up to the diff housing?
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

All sorts of possibilities.......I would grab the axle and twist it and see if there's any slop. Also, make sure the gearbox is in neutral and have someone turn the wheel while you watch the joint as it rotates, see if it looks normal or moves around.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

So replaced these again, but saved the ones that came off.  Other than some damage to the plastic from where it hit the exhaust the old ones don't look bad.  My new expandable, handle cranked vise grips worked like a charm.   20.gif

Bad news.  Still have the issue.  ONLY above 50-55 mph there is a major vibration in the drivetrain.  You can't feel it, through the steering wheel, but man you can hear it.  Open to all suggestions to check.  Motor mounts?  Engines steadies?  Wheel bearings? Exhaust mounts?  Transmission(remote shift)?   50.gif

Dave, I checked the output shaft again and it has a very tiny amount of play, enough for you to know it's moving, but not enough to really measure.   
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MPlayle

I know this sounds like a silly long-shot, but could it be an out of balance rear wheel?


MiniDave

Des anyone have a set of wheels/tires you could swap with? Easy way to eliminate that as a possibility.......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

I could check the rears for balance.  I'd say Bruce, but I think his wheels are in Tulsa, even though they aren't on the car.

Had this thought...  Are the shafts balanced?  Like a typical driveshaft?  When I did my trucks u joints the manual stated to mark the shaft and the yoke so you line them back up how they came apart.  The mini manual said no such thing on these so at the time I didn't even think about it.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.