Author Topic: My 65 Australian MKI  (Read 24061 times)

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #50 on: April 22, 2017, 06:50:57 PM »
Ok, loosening the floor bolts helped.  the right side was still a pain, but it was that before the tower bolts.  Almost done.  Dave, I'll still be interested to see the hydro suspension tomorrow.  Thanks.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline MiniDave

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #51 on: April 22, 2017, 07:19:44 PM »
I'll take pics, anything in particular you want me to photo?
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #52 on: April 22, 2017, 08:23:27 PM »
Mainly just the tower area.  Where the subframe meets the body.  Is the spacer in the same place.  Also if you can get one down the big hole on top of the tower where the hydro line runs down into the bag.  Wondering if the original hydro spacer may be different than the reproduction ones.

I did get all the other bolts back in by loosening the floor bolts then doing the front subframe bolts (tow bar area) before tightening the floor bolts again. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline MiniDave

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #53 on: April 22, 2017, 08:36:32 PM »
That's pretty normal....

His car will have the hoses going down the holes, so I don't know how much I'll be able to see for you......
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline BritBits

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #54 on: April 22, 2017, 10:42:18 PM »
Mark,

Won't help with this, but there's a great industrial hardware supplier near me in east Plano that stocks all sizes of SAE thread bolts, it's been a great source of proper nylocs for my Spitfires.  The owner has (had??) a Jag so he felt my pain when I was looking for oddball hardware.


Cheers,

Jim
Almost Oklahoma
'63 Awesome Mini Cooper 997

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #55 on: April 23, 2017, 09:42:01 AM »
East Plano would be nice, I'm in Allen so currently I have to drive to west plano to Elliot's Hardware.  They have an insane amount of bolts.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline BruceK

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #56 on: April 23, 2017, 11:59:36 AM »
Jim, what's that place called?
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
2007 Triumph Bonneville

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #57 on: April 24, 2017, 08:05:41 AM »
It's BA industrial at Ave. N and Summit Ave. 

Speaking of always something.  So I got all the bolts installed on my subframe.  Of course with the spacers my front ride height was higher.  So I adjusted the hi/lo settings.  Of course this brought back up the droop problem were they are loose when the suspension hangs.  I knew I'd seen some oversized rebound buffers and found them on minimania, 7ent, and another us site.  In my research though I found an article about installing coil springs, which I have, and according to the article in mini magazine, mine are in wrong.  It shows spring, spacer plate, hi/lo.  Mine are spacer, spring, hi/lo. 

The oversized buffers will help with the front, but is there anything I can do for the rear?  I will continue to search the interwebs for answers.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #58 on: April 24, 2017, 08:28:30 AM »
Turns out, wet suspensions had a rebound buffer for the rear.  Since my front subframe is wet, hopefully the rear is too.  Other options were rebound straps from a sprite.  Seems most people just use a short enough shock to stop droop, but that seems harsh on a shock. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #59 on: May 03, 2017, 07:21:59 PM »
Ok. Took this picture today and this just doesn't look right. I'm thinking the wet suspension shouldn't have the spacer. After some conversation on BaT it sounds like it's for the dry do to the raised bolt areas where mine are flush. Not 2 separate mounds.

I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #60 on: May 03, 2017, 08:40:30 PM »
Finally found the pic that I've been searching for.  And yep, no spacer.  Looks like it was only for the dry.  So if anyone ever needs early dual bolt tower bolts and spacers I'll have them.  Guess I'll be loosening these all up and taking them out.  YAY!



I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #61 on: May 03, 2017, 08:42:52 PM »
Now that that is solved.  Next issue.  I'm replacing the couplings as they are worn and hitting my header.  Thing I've read up on them is that if the yokes are going bad it will destroy a set of these in a hurry.  Is there a way to check the yokes condition with them on the car? 

I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline MPlayle

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #62 on: May 04, 2017, 08:31:47 AM »
I don't know about how to check the condition of  the yokes, but I will take the tower bolts and spacers.  I will likely need to replace at least the spacers on my Moke and it is the early dry subframe.

Send me a PM when you have them out and we'll arrange a deal.

The hitting your header is likely more to do with the size /shape of the header and how it passes the yokes.  There have been several discussions about how to get the positioning of performance headers right so that they clear the yoke outputs.  Most of the headers are designed for clearing the later pot joint outputs which give more room than the yoke outputs.


Offline MiniDave

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #63 on: May 04, 2017, 09:15:00 AM »
I'm surprised to see those plastic caps on the Ujoints, back in the day when I used to change out the rubber ones for solid caps they were made of steel.......but I guess modern plastics in that application work just fine.
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline BruceK

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #64 on: May 04, 2017, 10:56:40 AM »
I remember using the solid white nylon U-joints with needle bearings made by Quinton Hazel back in the late 1970s on my Mini.   They were the modern upgrade at the time
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
2007 Triumph Bonneville

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #65 on: May 04, 2017, 11:59:03 AM »
I don't know about how to check the condition of  the yokes, but I will take the tower bolts and spacers.  I will likely need to replace at least the spacers on my Moke and it is the early dry subframe.

Send me a PM when you have them out and we'll arrange a deal.

The hitting your header is likely more to do with the size /shape of the header and how it passes the yokes.  There have been several discussions about how to get the positioning of performance headers right so that they clear the yoke outputs.  Most of the headers are designed for clearing the later pot joint outputs which give more room than the yoke outputs.

Will do, I'm hoping to get them out this weekend, but it's filling up. 

They weren't rattling when I bought it.  Started a couple months in and seems to be getting worse.  With the power of my motor I wonder if these are just going to get beat up regardless.  May look at the hardy spicer ujoint or other upgrade when the car goes off to paint.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #66 on: May 09, 2017, 06:19:11 PM »
Now that that is solved.  Next issue.  I'm replacing the couplings as they are worn and hitting my header.  Thing I've read up on them is that if the yokes are going bad it will destroy a set of these in a hurry.  Is there a way to check the yokes condition with them on the car? 




So I got these in today, took minispares 5 days to process the order and 1.5 to ship, but whatever.  So reading the haynes manual it says to disconnect the upper ball joint to put them in, i'm guessing this is to give some play in the driveshaft to maneuver these in and out?  Anyone ever attempted this without disconnecting the ball joint?

I have the good splitter so it's not too big of a deal, was just hoping not to have to mess with it. 

On a second note, I'm going to probably replace the little knuckle that my hi/los sit in on the upper arm, the rubbers are looking worn.  These just pop in and out, when the suspension is loosened far enough, correct?

Thanks
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline MiniDave

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #67 on: May 09, 2017, 07:08:54 PM »
Pop in and out? Well in theory anyway...... ;D

Sometimes they get stuck in there pretty good.

Back in the day I used to be able to replace those joints without taking the ball joint loose, put the inner cross in first then you just have to turn the axle and joint to enable the cap to slide in from the top, then turn the next one to the top and slide it in.....all the while being very careful not to lose any of the needles......
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #68 on: May 09, 2017, 07:43:07 PM »
Yea, I've seen all those needles, from messing with the old pair that came in boxes with the car, along with like 100 of those ubolts.

I've seen my hi/lo slip up and down on the knuckle, but yea what kind of fight can I expect getting them out of the upper arm?  Is there a preferred method to getting them out?
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline MiniDave

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #69 on: May 09, 2017, 08:16:59 PM »
Just grab and pull, sometimes they come out in pieces......sometimes they slip right out.

If you grease those needles up with some really sticky grease they generally stay in place.
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #70 on: May 15, 2017, 07:13:45 AM »
Update:  I got these replaced, won't even go to the PITA that was.  No room to work, laying on my back on the floor and the u-bolts nearly refused to go back in the holes around the new plastic caps, but in the end and 5 hours later I got them in.

Met up with Bruce for a drive around town.  No problems and no more 3rd/4th gear speed rattle when letting off the gas.  I then headed out to a show in the country and when I tried to accelerate up to 60 it started vibrating like crazy.  From about 55 up.  So I let off and coasted back down to 50 where it didn't vibrate.  Of course as soon as I let off the gas after that the rattle was back.  Was fun babying the car back home from out there, glad I didn't try to skip it and go with Bruce and ruin his drive. 

Any thoughts on if I did something wrong or is there a bigger problem I'm unaware of?   To be honest, I don't think I've had the car over 50 since I started hearing the rattle some months after acquiring the car.

Bolts to tight? (no room for torque wrench and only 12 ft lbs)  Shafts not re-aligned properly?(mentioned nothing in manual about marking them like a driveshaft)  Something else worn out that's causing these to hit the exhaust? 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline MPlayle

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #71 on: May 15, 2017, 08:56:43 AM »
Is the exhaust an aftermarket header or the stock exhaust?  If an aftermarket header, it is likely the angle of the header.  (See ArmyCook's thread as he has been dealing with the same/similar issue.)

Edit: Here is the thread:
http://restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=1341.msg21682#new
« Last Edit: May 15, 2017, 08:58:26 AM by MPlayle »

Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #72 on: May 15, 2017, 09:07:56 AM »
It's an aftermarket header with the 2 down pipes.  The thing is, that it wasn't doing this when I bought the car back in August.  It didn't do it for some months after I bought it, including a couple hours drive through the country at speeds of 70+

It only started rattling probably this year and started out very faint.  As it got more noticeable I started looking into the problem.  Then finding the couplings as a possible cause and visually inspecting them to see they had been hitting the exhaust.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Offline MPlayle

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #73 on: May 15, 2017, 09:18:59 AM »
I've read conflicting stories about whether engine movement (or more properly - lack of movement) affects whether there is hitting or not.

When not hitting, obviously you are fine.  When the hitting gradually starts (such as when steady bushings start weakening), it seems minor. 

The goal what I've read seemed to indicate was making sure that the header and engine if moving stayed as a single unit maintaining the relative clearances.  Providing flex points at alternate locations (such as an exhaust flex coupling right after the header's 'Y' pipe) was reported as another option.

What the answer truly is, I do not know.  As I stated to start, there are still conflicting stories/opinions.


Offline gr8kornholio

Re: My 65 Australian MKI
« Reply #74 on: May 15, 2017, 08:25:10 PM »
So a response on the uk forum was tire balance.  I haven't checked them lately, and going to be really  50.gif if that could be the cause of all of this.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.