My 65 Australian MKI

[gr8kornholio]

Ha Ha.  The rear brakes came as an assembly.  But Bruce was right on both fronts.  One of the pads had slipped out of place and the one hub does seem to have a bulge on one side.  I took a video, but it's hard to make out with all the black in there.  As it spins the hub edge goes from like 1/4" clearance of the backing plate retaining bolt to probably less than an 1/8" clearance.  I put the drums on both and they rotated just fine, no binding or scraping so just an ugly casting.  Thanks guys!

Do need cotter pins, cause if I ordered them for the hubs they sent the wrong ones.  But maybe these are the ones for the front cause that hole is bigger.  No biggie, quick run to hardware store.

Did find my first duplicate ordered parts though.  I had already ordered the longer rear studs and the screw to hold down the drum.  Ordered them again with last order cause I forgot I put them in the box with the brake assemblies.

[gr8kornholio]

Pic

[BruceK]

Hold on.  I found a stash of brand new cotter pins from MiniSpare last night when looking for a voltage stabilizer for Dave.  I can bring them over if you'd like.

[gr8kornholio]

Of course if you've read this thread since I started putting it back together I have put a lot together upside down.  Maybe I should stand down under while I build it then I won't have to keep redoing it. 

[gr8kornholio]

Bruce, I sent you a text.

[94touring]

Moving along toward the rear...

[MiniDave]

All the usual places

[94touring]

Wire wheeled, phosphoric acid treated, por 15 coated, and clamped together. Will weld once dry.

[gr8kornholio]

Subframes completed and tourqued. 

[MiniDave]

Those look great, when do you think you'll see your shell again, best guess?

[94touring]

Fairly soon.   I think all the metal work will wrap up this week.  Then bang out a paint job.

[gr8kornholio]

I always forget about the Australian forum. I'm actually a member. 

Turned my British mk1 door latch into an Australian one. Hard to see, but my holes are threaded because this sits behind the sheet metal.

[BruceK]

Well done sir!

[gr8kornholio]

Thanks. Tapping them was a pain cause they are loose in there and spin. 12-24 was not working. Then I started with 10-24 and moved up. 

[MiniDave]

If they are loose and spin, what will happen when you try to thread a screw into them? Won't they turn? And if you get them tight will you ever be able to remove them again? Cause, won't they just turn as you try to take the screws out? Maybe a little JB to stop them turning, or perhaps some solder?

[gr8kornholio]

Those were my thoughts.  I did use one of my old ball bearings to smash down the back side a little more and that allows me to get the screw in without turning but a little safety net may be worth it.

[gr8kornholio]

All this tuning talk got me wondering what I had, I'd looked it up before but here it is. 

Bored 60 over.  Calver GT Head (stage 2) with Elgin 103 cam.  1.5 roller tip rockers and a 123 Distributor.

Head: https://www.7ent.com/products/cylinder-head-calver-special-tuning-gt-unleaded-sen0281.html

Cam: https://www.7ent.com/products/elgin-262-280-camshaft-fast-road-slot-drive-elg103.html

The engine is a 7ent built motor.  Just glad it came with the car.

[gr8kornholio]

CV question.  I have the new CV joint kits for the disc brake conversion.  I've watched a couple u-tube videos on it.  There is no grease packet in the box, but the joint is already filled with grease and has a plastic cover keeping it in.  Should I add more grease?  I've seen everything from that's enough to pack it and boot since that's all the grease it will ever get.

[MiniDave]

I have some also for Clancy's car but I think I will try and pack a little more in before I boot it up. After all, the excess just goes into the boot....they probably have enough as it is, but a little more can't hurt is my idea. It won't take a lot. Be sure to use a Moly grease - one for CV joints. The pot joints OTOH just use a light, regular old axle grease...they don't need the moly.

On the boots, I find it a lot easier to install the boot clamps with the entire axle on the bench, then I put it back in the upright once it's all cinched up nicely. If you don't have the metal boot clamp tool, use zip ties, they work just fine. But on the outermost one you need the zip ties that are flat - that don't have the tab sticking up once it's tight, those will hit the hub.

[gr8kornholio]

Ok, I've seen CV grease.  Probably avoid the synthetic versions since that's most likely not what's in there now?

[MiniDave]

Synth is fine, just make sure it's the black, moly CV grease.

[gr8kornholio]

Here's a picture hopefully. Lol. It's black grease in there. Gcv1013

[94touring]

I add extra to mine just cause more fits.

[MiniDave]

Mine looked like they had more grease in them than that, I don't see any grease in there at all, so definitely pack them full!

I think your cylinder head is very similar to the one Dan bought - makes a lot of power! Don't know why they have so much exhaust lift with that cam, but with those 1.5 rockers the power will mostly be at the top of the RPM range. When I drove your car back to your house that night, since I had no clue where I was going and your bride was with me I took it very easy so I didn't get to feel what it had or where the power band was. We went with 1:4 rockers on Dan's car, so the power band is 3-6K and LOTS of torque.

It will be great for you to finally be able to run the car the way it was built - knowing you have a solid chassis under you and all the suspension and brakes are new!

[94touring]

We went with 1:4 rockers on Dan's car, so the power band is 3-6K and LOTS of torque.

I did a few things to get as much torque and streetabiity as possible.  Went with the 1.4 rockers as Dave mentions.  Head work is a must to get more power obviously.  Picked a cam that matches a street car, kent 266 in my case.  Then it was doing the maniflow manifold with longer straighter runners into the head and the longest velocity stacks I could fit.  The final touches of port matching and carb modifications have yet to be dynoed but the wideband says its pushing more air into the engine which equals more of that horsepower/torque thing we all want.  Gearing is a small factor as well in that a 2.76 will lug around, and a 3.76 will be too much for a regular street car.  3.10 to 3.44 is the way to go, my preference being 3.44.  My tiny tires really give me more of a 3.6 which if this was something I'd drive long hauls in wouldn't be desirable, but around town and twisty back roads it's unbeatable in the fun factor.

Also it should be added that a 1.75id exhaust with center muffler gives best power figures for a street car.  Maniflow stage 2 headers to match on a big bore.