My 65 Australian MKI

Started by gr8kornholio, February 11, 2017, 07:28:08 PM

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gr8kornholio

Quote from: 94touring on August 20, 2018, 01:54:35 PM
Mark decided to source an Aussie floor pan, so out with the new and in with the new!  X member in place and needs some clamping toward the center before I can get carried away with welding

Yea, may not have worried about it, but needed those bolt holes for the long thin line covers underneath.  And figured if I've gone this far might as well do it as back to normal as possible. 

Cross member looks good too. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

Ok so I'm building the rear hubs.  It looks like the rear seal should seat against the bearing. Mine stopped a good 1/8th inch short so the bearing has play. Any tips to get it to go further?
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

BruceK

Well, there shouldn't be any lateral movement.  But you already know that.   Are you installing ball or roller bearings?  Did you get the outer races fully seated?   Did you get the grease seal fitted the right way? 

Two more things you probably already know: you can't mix and match pieces from different bearing sets - there are a matched set that can't be broken up.  And the left rear hub nut is reverse threaded.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

gr8kornholio

They are roller bearings. Yes made sure not to mix them up. Races fully seated. Pretty sure I did. I'll post pic.

This is how I fitted it
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

#304
Looking at the pictures and remembering putting it together the bearing race seated on the second lip with the top of the race  below the first lip which looks like it stops the seal which would leave a gap between bearing and seal.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

BruceK

With the outer bearing races fully seated against the stop in the hub, and the bearings fully packed with grease, the grease seal should sit down flush with the edge of the hub.    But I believe the Haynes manual says that the grease seal is fitted one way for ball bearings (lip facing the bearing) and the other way for tapered roller bearings (lip away from the bearing).  But I'm not sure that advice is widely followed.   In any case it's the same width fitted either way, so it can't be your issue. 
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

The bearings will be loose till you insert the axle and tighten the nut.....as Bruce says you should only seat the seal flush with the hub.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

BruceK

Quote from: gr8kornholio on August 20, 2018, 07:49:11 PM
Looking at the pictures and remembering putting it together the bearing race seated on the second lip with the top of the race  below the first lip which looks like it stops the seal which would leave a gap between bearing and seal.

I had to read that a couple times before I understand what you're saying but there should be no gap. The grease seal will go flush up against the outer race and you can see that in this diagram.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

gr8kornholio

Bruce, which Haynes manual do you have?  Mine didn't mention anything about the type of bearings or have any pictures.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

BruceK

#309
That diagram is from a Haynes manual for the later Minis.  It's at home, but probably like 1985 on I think.  But, like a lot of stuff on our cars, the rear hub is the same for all years, 1959 - 2000.  Any Haynes manual should have lots of photos and diagrams.  What one do you have?

Also, regarding type of bearings:  most Minis came with ball bearings in the rear hubs.  Roller bearings were first fitted to the Cooper models in the 60s as an upgrade over ball bearings.  These days most people use the roller bearings.  The Haynes manual I have covers both types
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

gr8kornholio

I'm guessing mine is older and is not as full of pictures.  Looked through my big orange book too but nothing good in there.  I'll dig out the aussie book and see what i find.  Yea the old hubs I pulled off had the ball bearings in them.  They also have a metal lip on the back making getting the rear seal out a major pain.  I decided to just buy the new hubs and load the new bearings and longer studs for finned drums.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

BruceK

#311
Quote from: gr8kornholio on August 21, 2018, 05:03:35 AM
Bruce, which Haynes manual do you have?  Mine didn't mention anything about the type of bearings or have any pictures.

The diagram I showed you came from my Haynes manual with the dark blue cover.   But I also have this older one with the light blue cover. And the beat up orange cover one is the granddaddy of them all. That one came with my first Mini, and I've had it about 44 years. Used it to rebuild my car's engine when I was 19.  So it's very sentimental to me. 

But even the oldest one has plenty of diagrams and photos.   Which one do you have?
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

gr8kornholio

Mine is orange, I'll try to remember to get a pic today, but it is lacking in photos compared to other ones I've had.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

Yea, I have the big orange shop manual also.  It has the Australian addition to it.  Also recently acquired a book from Australia that has really good pictures of the MK1 wind up doors.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

I'll get some pics of them when I get home.  It's a very rare book, only released in Australia I believe.  Found one on ebay over there and got my contact at minisport.aus to buy it and ship it with some parts.

Prior to that he was gracious enough to send me pictures of the pages in the copy he had about the doors.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

#315
Here are my manuals. The right one is the Australian one.  Gregory's No 64.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

Had some time to play with the hub last night while the brother in law was replacing our garage door springs.  I've figured out how it all works together and the seal fitting and such, looks good to go. 

The thing I noticed was the pin the bearings go on is much wider the last half inch or so before the arm.  This is what will hold the bearing from moving around, not the grease seal which goes around this larger area of the pin.  Nothing beats real world visuals. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

gr8kornholio

So what ALL could cause the rear hub to not rotate smoothly?  Or appear to not rotate in a perfect circle? 

When I spin it the hub rubs some of the brake components slightly on part of the rotation.  My thought is I didn't get the bearing races as perfectly seated as I thought.  Reason being I switched hubs and it rotated better, but you could still tell it wasn't perfect.

I'll build up the other arm and see if the really wobbly hub wobbles the same on the other arm. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

BruceK

 The hubs are a cast piece – not machined on the outside and therefore there may be high and low parts.   Got a photo?
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

gr8kornholio

O yay, that was one thing I was wondering.  Because I put a ruler across one and spun it and the flange that the studs are in went by the same place every time.  May be grinding down the outside of the hub?

Found another thing, the hub that appears wobbly doesn't want to go onto the other stub.  Like not at all. 

I'll see if I can get some video or a pic, but it's getting a bit toasty out there now. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

BruceK

 If the spinning hub is hitting a brake component such a shoe or spring it sounds like the brakes are not installed correctly. 
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

94touring

Some of these new brake backplates rub the drums once you torque down the wheels, requiring some shaving to be done. The hubs however once properly torqued down will spin a bit stiff at first, but shouldn't wobble.

gr8kornholio

I guess wobble was the wrong term.  The hub itself doesn't wobble it just may be the casting is not perfectly round so as it spins it rubs the brake spring.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

BruceK

That's what I was thinking.  But I still wonder if you've got shoes and/or springs perhaps installed wrong?    Just because the car is from Oz doesn't mean things should be installed upside down.      ;D
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

94touring

Maybe it spins backwards like their toilets.

OR. You probably have the spring on wrong.