'70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)

Started by Bahowe1, January 04, 2017, 12:48:55 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.


MPlayle

I'm pretty certain that gets closed up in some manner.  Dan will know and probably chime in later.


MiniDave

I'm not sure, but I think the outer sill covers that area......

Some pics of the tow bar brackets brackets with the subframe in the car would be great if you have them....if not, no worries.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

You have to weld that gap closed.  Sometimes the gap is that big, other times it's not.  Depends on how your cill fits.

Bahowe1

I don't have any pictures of the brackets on subframe in the car (other than the picture of the car in the first post), but here are a couple close ups. As Jedduh said, it's a plate with two holes corresponding to the tow bar bracket holes with a brace plate in the shape of a triangle welded to the frame and the back of the plate. So the second image is a side shot, you are seeing the edges of the two plates with the bolt going through it and the brace triangle that keeps it vertical.
Oh... it's probably also worth pointing out that the frame is one of the really old Minitec frames. The PO sat on it for a while before selling. I think the newer frames may have a slightly different bottom front beam (for lack of better word).


Bahowe1

Ok, thanks Dan. That gap made no sense to me, but had to be there in my case because the curves of that panel to the body and such.

MiniDave

I'm a little surprised that one triangle section is enough to brace that bracket, but if it works, it works!   4.gif

I think Don's MiniTec frame is a pretty early version too, he bought the car in 2008.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Bahowe1

Well, I'll have nothing to share for my next two Saturdays because work is sending me to Spain.  The only good news is... my seat on the plane will be much more comfortable than the Captain's chair when flying for company.  Right Dan?

MiniDave

#33
As many hours as you guys spend driving the flying bus, I'd think they'd give you Recaros to sit in!

I sent my buddy Don the pics of your frame and brackets - I've been trying to get him to do this for years now, as he complains about the noise on long drives and it keeps him from doing some of these across the country events. Even on short drives (2 hour) he wear ear plugs. He's been talking about putting a taller diff ratio in too, to drop the revs on the highway.

He has a 2006 Cooper S JCW he can use as a tow car, his wife has a Countryman All4 S that he could use too.

Bruce K and I towed his 88 Mini to Sandy Eggo this summer with his '02 Cooper S and it was easy-peasy.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

I've heard each seat cost 80k.  They're pretty nice seats!

Bahowe1

Payoff in about 10 trips... that's a good investment, i'd say.
If I had my choice, I'd certainly be fine sitting coach and pocket the difference.

Minidave, I hope it'll help your buddy enjoy more trips. Let me know if I can do anything else.

MiniDave

Thanks, I think I've got him spun up again on going to Texas.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Bahowe1

Painful... it's painful to watch calendar pages turn one by one and the mini just sit there with nothing getting done! 
Hopefully, I can put the last 3 months behind me and get back to the little neglected project.  So...
Question, followed by a couple pictures.  The little piece that the classic mini jack fits into on the outer sill, how does that mount??  And... shouldn't I just cover up that hole to prevent water from coming into the sill?  I never use the original mini jack.

Two more panels added back... that one that closes the bottom of the bin (sort of)... and the side/bottom panel (tacked now, need to finish out).  I think I mounted and took off the door 15 times to make sure gaps were good (read 'decent').
 

94touring

If you aren't intending to use the stock jacking points, you could bypass the piece you're talking about. Otherwise it just welds to the inner cill.

jedduh01

pro tip = yes = ditch the jacking 'supports' inside the Cil... weld the sill closed. Be done.
   

94touring


Bahowe1

Nuff said, I'll ditch the supports.
Do I put a bunch of paint in that sill area before I close it up forever?  If so, any recommendations that come from a rattle can?

94touring

Ideally you sealer primer it.  But yes you'll want something to keep rust from forming.

MiniDave

If you don't put the jacks in, don't you have to weld over the holes?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

I'd say it's optional. You have to figure the cill is vented to begin with. So long as it's properly sealed/painted, not much to worry about.

Bahowe1

How is the sill vented? I was thinking I would completely seal it up with welds on the front and back, a seam sealer running the length of the bottom, and something (don't know what this is yet) on the pinch welds on the lip beneath the door.

MiniDave

#46
No, there are "bumps" at the bottom of the sill, those are there to ventilate the moisture out so they won't trap water in there and rust. My E-Type has a similar arrangement.....

That's why you prime, seal and paint the inside before you weld on the outer skin. I went the extra mile and WaxOiled the insides of the sills on my E-Type. The bumps here are open on the bottoms.....

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

Unless you bought an overcill that's 9 inches wide, the ribs (I guess you'd call them that) vent.  This is to allow water and moisture to escape from within that boxed off section.  This is why overcills are bad. They trap water and your floors, cill, and inner cill begin to rot.

94touring

#48
Dave posted at the same time as me, and yes what he said.  I'll add that since I don't carry waxoil, I'll take a rag and smear grease inside before I weld it up.

Bahowe1

Huh... funny, I actually had some of the sills like MiniDave posted and didn't really understand how they 'worked' (I thought they were only part of the sill), so I went ahead and bought the 9 inchers.  So, knowing this now, wouldn't my best bet be to completely seal it up?
Thanks