Upgrading ignition, help ID distributor.

Started by Flyinace2000, January 01, 2017, 10:00:43 AM

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jeff10049

OK with that Ohm coil yes you may have a unballasted system.

The best way to measure  is.  key on temporarily ground the negative side of the coil with a jumper wire. And measure the voltage at the positive side of the coil.


Flyinace2000

Left the positive wire hooked up.  Ran a jumper from the negative to the engine ground strap.  Turned ignition to on and measure voltage between the + and - on the coil and between the positive terminal on the coil and another ground in the engine bay (alternator housing).  All measured around 10.5V

MPlayle

You have a ballasted ignition based on those last measurements.  The ballast resistor is hidden in the wiring harness for one of the wires to the + side of the coil.  You will probably want to determine which wire for sure and then disconnect it and cap it off.  Then run an alternate from the ignition switch 'On' position to the coil to get the full 12V there for the electronic ignition module.

The other wire on the + side of the coil should only be active (12V) when the starter is engaged.


Flyinace2000

I only have 1 wire going to the positive side of the coil.

MiniDave

So, tape that wire off and run a new one from a source that's hot when the ignition is on - top fuse, IIRC - then you'll have a good solid 12V to the coil, and the electronics will work properly like Mike and Bruce said, and you'll be golden!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Flyinace2000

Sorry I just don't follow that logic. The single wire I have provides 12v. I don't have a second wire that provides 6-9 volts.

MiniDave

I thought you said you measured the wire to the coil at 10.5 volts when you grounded the other side of the coil? If so that's a ballast wire. If so you need a good 12V wire to the coil to run the electronic ignition.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

jeff10049

#32
Your single wire by the last test provides 10.5 volts, not 12 volts. so Run a new switched ign. wire from a 12 volt source. And cap off the old one and you're good to go.  Also run the non ballasted coil you dont need two wires that way.

It is possible that the minis electrical system has a 2 volt drop to the coil without being a ballast wire either way id run a new wire so you know for sure and be done with it. Or go right past the coil and to the accuspark module as shown in their diagrams you need 12 volts to the accuspark the coil is not as critical.


(edit posted at same time as Dave)

MiniDave

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Flyinace2000

Hey Guys,

I ended up getting a 3ohm coil from a local speed shop.  Did the same test as above, grounded the  coil, and measured the volts DC coming off the red (+) side.  12V nearly exactly.  So sticking with the 30hm coil.  Other notes about the AccuSpark kit.  I bought the kit and new baseplate since I have a 59D and don't need the post for the self cleaning bits.  Turns out that new baseplate had different size screws than my original plate and points.  Also the post that attaches to the vac advanced was to wide.  So ended up using the original plate after hitting it with my dremel. 

Other notes.  Checked the timing before starting and it was off the charts wrong.  The marker showed well below the measurement teeth.  Gave the distributor a small turn, set the gun to 10 degrees and immediately the car was idling 100x better.  Had to give the idle adjust screw an 1/8th of a turn.

One last question:  I'm using a Petronix 40k volt, and from what i've read I should be re-gapping my plugs.  Is there a recommended gap for the upgrade coil?

All said and done it probably took me a few hours, but the next time would probably take way less. 

MiniDave

Cool! Glad to hear you got it all sorted......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad