Pre- Engine install Q's

[stan360]

I would want one also ,  especially if its plastic of some sort, to make for easy modifications/ holes.

[stan360]

Is anyone using one of these gear lever bias barrels on there rod change linkage .  They are made for the 5 speed gearbox but supposedly can be used on regular 4 speed box.  I just didn't know how much good it did keeping the shifter in the 3/4 gate area  a bit more like a modern car,  or is it a bit unecessary to install this.

[MiniDave]

My friend John Styers (Lawrence British car club member) runs one of those with his KAD short shifter, I never saw the point myself but since it's a KAD thing there must be - besides making a shedload of money. I'm thinking it's something to do with the smaller gate on the short shifter.....  ;D

Call him or send him a text - tell him I put you in touch.. 913-906-4401

[stan360]

Thanks Dave,  I will call John.  I have been wanting to join the club , and since I have some time off, I can ask him if they are meeting next week and could actually be able to make it to a meeting.

[stan360]

I forgot to ask about this way back there, but before I get any farther to where I can no longer get my hand or tools around it....how tight does that speedo cable need to be.  I put it on hand tight, then took a shop towel, wrapped it and took a channel lock to it and give it a snug.  Not too much, but apparently it takes almost nothing to mar the sensitive aluminum  finish on that thing.  Should be good there ?

[94touring]

I do hand tight.

[Willie_B]

I do hand tight.

Hand tight is good.

[94touring]

Bare in mind someday it will break and you'll have to remove it.  Too tight now will be a potential nightmare on an already difficult job replacing that thing. 

[stan360]

Glad I addressed this today.  I was able to rock and hold  the engine forward since all that is holding are the 2 subbie mounts. I took the cable off ( with small channel locks)  mangled it in the process, as it was a hell of a lot tighter than snug one handed.... I did plan for disaster and had 2 of the cables.....this new  one is now hand tight.  I can see that once this engine is  attached from all angles and all the parts are on, this cable would be near impossible to reach. 


I am looking at the clearance on the bulkhead to intake manifold area. It appears that  it may be best to put the carb on the intake and then  onto the block. I have the short studs that mini spares offers for the HIF44
https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Fuel/Carburetors/Fittings/CHS2514.aspx?130207&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/Exhaust_and_manifold/Inlet/Inlet/C-AHT770.aspx|Back%20to

those studs seems to need  the 1/2" spacer between the carb manifold and I wonder with all that if the damn carb isn't going to be poking its head in that gauge pod hole.

[94touring]

That cable can be replaced from underneath the car with long needle nose with the curved end.  Minidave made a speciality tool to remove his. It can be done but a slow process.

[John Gervais]

I've always used a spacer between the carb and intake manifold, partly to reduce the temp of the intake charge and to increase the intake tract length.  Even with the shorter small-bore blocks, it's always been possible for me to install the carb after the manifold is secured, but it is a tight fit for the HIF38 being really, really close to the bulkhead, which is why my HIF44 is still sitting in a box.

I've read that the automatic subframes cause manual gearboxes to sit lower than manual subframes.

Auto Subframe

[MiniDave]

I went from a 1/2" spacer to a 1/4" spacer on Buzz cause the carb would vibrate against the bulkhead under certain conditions. However, just FYI, the '73 I was working on had no spacer at all and it didn't seem to affect the performance one whit.

And you can borrow my speedo cable tool any time you need it, it works easily....from above too.

[stan360]

OK , John  if this engine is 1/2 inch lower now , I can see where the bottom of that carb is going to likely hit the bulkhead with the 1/2 spacer.  I have the 1/4 spacer also or I can try no spacer.....  But I don't know what to do about the studs Dave.  The ones I have for the 1/2 spacer are the only ones I can find on minispares to fit the manifold and the HIF44. 

What did you do about the studs to go with no spacer or 1/4 spacer.

I can see where if I got the car of the ground a bit  Dan , I could use some bent nose pliers on that cable and have some elbow room.  All is good now, hopefully a long life for this cable...hand tight only, but there may be a day  when I have to borrow Daves speedo cable tools.

[John Gervais]

My original MiniSpares intake (with the square-top heater tube) allowed me to use a ½" spacer with the HIF38, but when I changed to a round-top MiniSpares intake I was forced to change to a 1/4" spacer.  I can't 'splain the difference between the two manifolds, as they have the same part number.  I also can't remember why I changed away from the square-top.  The factory used a ½" spacer with the original HS4, so I bought the appropriate 4-stud spacer to suit when I converted.

Regarding performance - I honestly don't know if half the things I've done amount to a whole lot of real difference, as I've no real way of measuring anything.  Based on 'theory', though, the stickers add around 2½ more horsepower and 2.75 lbs/ft more torque; needed to haul around the weight of the seats, roll cage and copious amounts of copper wire, not to mention Hyacinth's (and mine, I suppose) aging physique.

As for studs, in order from long to short:

22A152  2.25" long universal stud 5/16"UNC one end and unf for the nut end. This fits the gearbox to flywheel case (6 of) and inlet manifolds to take HIF carbs when large spacer fitted.

CHS2515  5/16"unc and unf at nut end, this stud is 1.9375"long.  This stud originally replaced CHS2514 but is 2-3 threads(5mm) longer on the end the nut fits which means it might have to be shortened for use on manifolds for fitting carbs so CHS2514 is advised.

CHS2514  Universal stud made for fitting the HS4/HIF carb to the manifold (except HS6 with alloy spacer on cast one piece manifold which requires CHS2515 (5.8mm longer)and it also fits the cylinder head to take the thermostat housing.

CHS2614  Originally quoted as the HS2 twin carb manifold stud it is one thread longer than CHS2613 which was for single HS2 and spin on oil filter head to the block. UNC course thread for manifold or block and UNF for the nuts.

CHS2613  CHS2613:  1.6250" long stud

(I'm currently using 22A152, but had previously used CHS2514 (in 2000 when I first changed to the HIF38 w/½" spacer))

[stan360]

I think some of the shorty studs for HS2 are 3/8" unc and the manifolds for HS4/HIF carbs   is 5/16"  and those studs are the spacer types.

[94touring]

I've had good luck getting manifold studs from ace hardware.  Depending on custom lengths in your case, you could always make your own by cutting down a bolt.

[MiniDave]

Go to the hardware store and buy a stick of 5/16 UNC (coarse thread) allthread rod, then cut to whatever length you need......there is nothing that says you have to use fine thread nuts on the other end, and I have no idea why they use the two different threads on either end of the stud, other than you need the coarse threads into the aluminum manifold.

[towjoe]

When you attach the speedo cable you only need to turn it around twice just to hold it to the transmission. Never tighten it.
Regards
towjoe 77.gif

[stan360]

Ah, the hardware store. I have spent quite a bit of time in there lately getting nuts and bolts for the car .  It never occured to me to get some allthread rod.  That will work.  Also, I didn't think about not needing the fine thread side.  I did however also find some auto studs in there that were 5/16 coarse and 5/16 fine that have 1/4 space , so if I can use that smaller 1/4 spacer, that could be fine.  Covered now both ways.


You got it Joe,  a couple full turns on that  speedo cable to get it seated on there and then I am leaving it alone.