Pre- Engine install Q's

[stan360]

I am about ready to drop the engine in. As soon as I do some drilling in the subbie to accomodate the engine mount adapters  going from auto box to manual.

Is there anything I need to be aware of that I should connect to the engine first before putting the engine in ?  Or anything in the bulkhead that I may not be able to easy do later ?   


I have the speedo cable on ,  the driveshafts  should just slip in pretty easy on the hardy spicer.   

Should I put the exhaust manifold on first, any clutch parts ( slave cylinder/ arm etc.? ) 

Also on the rod change linkage....I have the steady bar that it came with on there, but I see the later 1275's had a steady bar on them that is 1/2 inch longer. Now I also have that bar.  Is this really necessary to use or not ,   Is this because of the slightly longer dogbone steady on the upper on auto and later minis ?

[MiniDave]

I try to install everything I can while the engine is out of the car, that said I do leave the intake and exhaust manifolds off, along with the radiator .....you can set the clutch linkage up while it's out of the car too, it's much easier then and then install the slave cylinder and hose. 20 thou clearance at the stop stud and 1/8" clearance (I use a drill bit) at the large stop nut, then tighten the lock nut against it.

I would just use the shift rod that seems to fit the best - doesn't matter which one that is - that allows the engine to sit upright, not leaned over one way or another and doesn't bind the linkage.

[94touring]

So long as the speedo cable is on prior to the manifolds you're good to go.  Otherwise everything goes on after the engine is in.

[stan360]

So I was going to put this engine in today.  I just realized I do not have the inner driveshaft gaiters....Dammit.  Is there a "go to the auto parts store gaiter" that I can get for this ?  or I may have to order this  gaiter part.... 21A963  and put this off for a week  because I cannot wrap my mind around putting the driveshaft / HS yoke on after the fact.

[MiniDave]

I have some that look more like the other ones in your pic, they're for the outer CV, but will they work anyway? All they have to do is keep the dirt out....

Edit: Never mind, I can see the larger diameter is quite a bit smaller on the ones you need......

I'd take an old one to a power sports place that sells quads and such, you might find something there that will work.

[stan360]

They are a smaller gaiter.  I may take this to the auto parts store but it could be a fishing expedition for a gaiter in there depending on who I can find to help me.  Quad parts , thats a good idea, I will look .  I will probably  call 7ent today and wait it out. Just when I had all this lined up today too....gee whiz.  HA....and I just ordered some " I forgots" from Minispares and modifying an order there lately has been an ordeal so I will skip that.

[Kermy]

Where did you get your drive shafts? An OEM drive shaft would have a groove for a clamp to hold the gaiter in place. Maybe while you're waiting for the gaiter get a groove machined in. I measured a drive shaft I have and the groove is 3" from the end.

[stan360]

They are Swiftune driveshafts... I do have the originals in good condition too, but I cannot seem to dislodge them from the CV joints.  The Swiftunes are thicker and  you are right....no grooves.   

[MiniDave]

If you want to bring them down, I'll bet we can get them out with my 20 ton press......I can't imagine the groove is critical, otherwise Swiftune would have machined one in there already.

[stan360]

Dave, we can press them sometime.   I am in no hurry to do that, but I am sure that would work.   I am also sure I have not mastered the "technique" to just tapping them apart.

[jeff10049]

As to the engine install you don't have to worry much about before or after as Dave said he put most stuff on first, Dan seems to do it after I set mine in with nothing and the only thing that sucked was the speedometer cable because I forgot about it until last. The radiator was a slight pain but not sure if the  extra room of leaving it off was worth it I didn't want to get any scratches in the engine bay.

[stan360]

Well, I ordered the inner gaiters for the driveshafts , so Tuesday or Wednesday, I will try to drop this in.  I may put some of the clutch parts on but otherwise will leave the alt/starter / radiator off until after.   I have an aluminum radiator and a DSN waterpump pulley with built in spacer (4mm i believe) , so I am not entirely sure if things will line up smooth or I will be forced to make adjustments right there with an extra shim or ??, hopefully the pulley is right , so I don't need to buy another without spacer....that is a concern right now I was mulling over.

I do have this engine lift bracket to make things smoother I hope....when I pulled the original engine I had chains and D cliped them to some convenient holes on the auto block.....I don't have those holes anymore with this engine....thats too bad.

[tmsmini]

If you have a new radiator and pulley, I would test assemble them with the engine out of the car to make sure all is right with the spacing.
My last install I did with the radiator attached and just went really slow with cardboard taped to the radiator to protect it and the bay.
Terry

[jeff10049]

Good point Terry has, Also almost more important than the engine stuff is the brake lines and switch on the sub frame they suck to do with the engine in.

[stan360]

Dan , has put the lines on for me Jeff.....I took your advice Terry and began a test assembly.  Here is what I am looking at.   The fan seems to be hugging the right or rear  to lower side of the shroud, with a lot more gap on the opposite side left/ front and upper portion.  Would it be advisable to take the bracket on the bottom of the shroud and elongate the holes slightly to be able to make some adjustment to the shroud position?  Or am I missing something about the assembly here.   The shroud and that bracket are whatever new option minispares offers as my shroud was a rusty mess.  The engine mount bracket is original mini and of course the gearbox it is attached to.  The thermostat on these heads have the same 3 stud position. to attach the upper bracket.....I have the correct upper bracket that seems to not want to seat down  as much on the front stud, so the whole shroud is a bit cocked    :(

The radiator seems a safe distance from the fan when attached , with or without the addition of a small spacer .

[MiniDave]

Is your top bracket causing the shroud to deform? If so, shim it with some washers on the studs or bend/elongate holes or whatever needs to be done.

[stan360]

The shroud sets  lop sided just being connected to the bottom bracket. The top bracket is not connected here.  The shroud is not deformed .  It just seems as if the fitment issue could be in the bottom bracket or possibly a slight deviation in the position of the welded bracket attachement point/tunnel at the bottom of the shroud.  I have had some fitment issues with some of the new parts.  Nothing is made like it used to be.

I could possibly try to bend both arms of the lower bracket a tad bit to the right , or elongate the holes a bit there....And then washer / shim  up the top bracket  as it is not far off from sitting flush.

[MiniDave]

Modifying those holes won't hurt - if that's what it takes to get the thing to fit right, go for it.....

[John Gervais]

Did you attach the radiator to the shroud and the top bracket and see if it comes into 'square'?  Mine usually requires a slight 'nudge' rearward to get the top bracket screws to line up with the shroud.

[stan360]

yeah, I did.... the shroud doesn't seem to budge enough to straigten it out  with everything attached.

[John Gervais]

I assume you've also got the lower shroud bushes (CAM4618) and lower spacer tube (ARP1073) in place?

[MiniDave]

Good point John, this 73 that I'm working on didn't have them so I installed them when I changed out the radiator for the aluminum one......

[94touring]

You guys beat me to it, there's a bushing in there.

[tmsmini]

Not sure when the change over was but some do and some don't have the bushes and spacer.

[stan360]

Yes, I have the tube and the bushes in place.